Arvex Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 I found a 1992 SVX for sale in my area that I am going to be looking at either tomorrow or Monday. I know that it needs a new transmission or the current one rebuilt depending what's wrong with it, but I saw this as an opportunity to do a transmission swap early if I can get the car cheap enough. I've heard of people throwing Subaru Forester 4-speed automatic transmissions into their SVX, saying it's one of the more cost efficient things you can do to wake up an SVX because of the better gear ratios. My first choice would be to have the mechanic rebuild the transmission (if it can be done) as it would likely be cheaper than swapping a transmission from another vehicle (unless it was a direct swap-in.) In my current situation, I do not have an area to work on this car, so no matter what I go with, someone else is going to be fixing the transmission issue for me. I only have about fifteen hours to find all of the information I need before I head out to see this car and would like to ask for help finding information on this transmission swap. The questions: -What parts do I need for the transmission swap beyond the transmission itself? -Does it require any fabrication or cutting of the SVX's frame or parts? Or is this a direct swap in? -The information I found about the transmission says that it has to come from a phase-I Forester. Are there any other transmissions you would recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 First, you need to know the gear ratio of the trans. in the SVX. They were either 3.9 or 3.545. The only direct swap of a different transmission that will handle the torque of the 3.3 engine is out of a Legacy turbo ('91-'94). Handling the torque is important. If you decide to swap in a Forester model (I wouldn't), you will also need the rear diff to match the gear ratios. Unless you get a real bargain on the Forester one, I personally would have the existing one gone thru, with a shift kit added to the valve body. It really solves most of the issues on the SVX transmissions. I had one in both my SVX and my Legacy Turbo Touring Wagon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arvex Posted May 8, 2015 Author Share Posted May 8, 2015 It was a 1992 SVX and my research suggests it is 3.545:1. I'll see if I can find the transmission from a 91-94 Legacy Turbo. Otherwise, I'll just have the SVX's existing transmission rebuilt and look into modifying/replacing it later on. Assuming I do end up buying it. There are a bunch of other issues with the car, so I'm only buying it if they're selling it cheap enough. In the short run, I just want to get this SVX able to move on its own power. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arvex Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 The SVX can apparently limp for about ten minutes before it can't go further, so the owner is going to let me test drive it around a block tomorrow. If everything else checks out during this test drive, I will be buying this SVX and having it towed to the mechanic who will be fixing/replacing the transmission. It has seen better days; clearcoat is peeling everywhere, wheels are corroded, cracked windshield, torn seats, powered interior parts don't work. Engine runs beautifully, no rust on the body and nothing that suggests it has been in an accident. At the price he's asking, I would be a fool to turn this down, as his asking price is more than I would have to pay for the engine by itself. I'm looking for a turbo Legacy automatic transmission from that era, but I would like to know how much is too much to pay for a used or remanufactured one. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 The 4.44 outback or forester transmission is a direct swap, but it also requires swapping in the rear differential from the same donor car the transmission came from and putting your lsd carrier inside that differential. Since there is more gear reduction in the differentials with an outback or forester transmission, the stress the trans sees from the larger motor is reduced, so overall the reliability ends up being the same. The added bonus is the car accelerates quicker and is more fun to drive. 96-98 Outback's or 98 foresters are the usual donors, and they are plentiful in junkyards. Usually with blown headgaskets, so the transmissions are still fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arvex Posted May 12, 2015 Author Share Posted May 12, 2015 I got the estimate for rebuilding the existing transmission. It's going to be about $800 to rebuild it, and that's without any shift kit added, so it's going to fail again down the road. I am going to contact a local junkyard, their online inventory says they have two Legacy turbo transmissions from that era, but I didn't find them until they were already closed, so I have to pick them up later. Also, I bought the SVX, so I'm going to see what I can do to fix it up. I've already got estimates for most of the work it needs and it is looking reasonable considering what I paid for the car itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) The shift kit I mentioned is Transgo's, part #K78908. It goes in the valve body area. Available locally from Transfirst Industries. ps: $800 is really quite a good price for rebuilding that transmission. I've known places that charge upwards of $2700++. Edited May 12, 2015 by ccrinc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lstevens76 Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Does that rebuild include R&R? And even without it $800 is a good deal, especially if R&R is included since that's a 5 hour job in and of itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arvex Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 If by R&R, you mean removing and replacing the transmission? No, but that's my fault as I found out the mechanic whose shop I had the SVX towed to will send the transmission to another shop for rebuilding. The price isn't the problem. The problem with rebuilding the existing transmission is that it's the stock SVX transmission. My long term plans are the Outback/Forester transmission swap. I would think this is an opportunity to have a transmission that can better handle the torque swapped in. I found a pair of 92/93 Legacy turbo transmissions for about $225 each. In the short run, that should save me money to fix up other stuff. It should also last until I have the means to do the Forester/Outback transmission and differential swap myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Legacy turbo transmissions will be a 3.9 final drive, so you have to do the same work swapping the rear diff too. I don't see the point in putting in a legacy turbo transmission when it's the same work to put in an outback transmission. The outbacks were way more common too, so the transmissions should be cheap. CCR recommended the legacy turbo transmission because it uses similar extra frictions and steels in a couple of the clutches to what the stock SVX box does. Internally, all the transmissions are similar, with the SVX probably having the strongest parts stock. What kills it is the final drive ratio. The transmission is always working hard to push the car through those 3.54's, if it had 4.44's it makes the transmissions job easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 The 3.545 you already have is the sport option. Internally, the SVX and Legacy turbo transmissions are identical if they have the 3.9 gear ratio. We've rebuilt quite a few, so just FYI. Emily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arvex Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Oh. I was under the impression that the Legacy Turbo transmission had the same gear ratios, but would have been able to better handle the torque. My mistake. Good thing the junkyard closed before I got there or I would have bought a transmission I couldn't use without additional parts. I'll see what I can find as far as parts, if I can get all of the parts and the differential work done for less than the rebuild cost of the existing transmission, I'll have the mechanic do that. If not, I'll just have him send off the transmission for rebuilding. (A slightly used rebuilt SVX transmission might be worth something when I do the Outback/Forester swap later on?) The mechanic wanted $350 for removing and replacing the old transmission and adding new fluid. The ballpark I was given for rebuilding the transmission was around $800. If I go the rebuild route, I'm going to call up the transmission rebuilder and see if he can add in that shift kit while he's rebuilding it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 (edited) I'd double check with that rebuilder to make sure they are also replacing the bearings, checking for thrust clearances, ect. $800 seems almost TOO good for a good job. Unless they are specialists who do 4EATs all day, there's a reason other places charge $1000+ for a stock rebuild. While you're in there, do the transfer clutch rebuild and Duty C. With the early 4EAT, trust me. Have it done. However, I would recommend doing the 4.111 swap like others have recommended. It will really wake it up (you can sacrifice top end speed, we don't have an autobahn in Ohio) and take some stress off the trans. Yes, you will need a matching diff, but look at LKQ for low mile diffs and come with a 1 year warr. Really are the best deals. EDIT: For a quality. complete rebuild kit, prices are around $500. They're going to go through the whole thing, spend HOURS double checking and measuring tolerances for only $300? ehhhhh.... Edited May 15, 2015 by 86 Wonder Wedge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arvex Posted May 16, 2015 Author Share Posted May 16, 2015 Part of the problem with doing the transmission/differential swap is that I don't have a garage or proper work area. We're not even allowed to change brake pads in my apartment's parking lot after one of the neighbors replaced a radiator and left a puddle of coolant in the parking lot. As far as taking it to a better shop for rebuilding, unless it can be reached without going on the highway, I will have to call a tow truck again. However, while I was typing this, I got a response from the mechanic on a quote for a rear differential swap. If I can get the transmission and rear differential for less than the cost of rebuilding it, I will go with the swap. This means I will likely be pulling the parts myself from the junkyard on my next day off. I am uncertain that I will find a turbo Legacy, so the transmission and rear differential will probably be coming from a Forester or Outback. The reason I chose to take it to this mechanic was that he has done good work on my cars before and is one of the few places I know that will use customer provided parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodsWagon Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 It has to be a phase 1 4eat. If it has a spin on filter on the side it's too new. 98 and older model year, so 5/98 build date or older. There was some shop in Ohio advertising online that they did 4.44 swaps for svx's. No idea on their reputation, but might be worth taking it to them if the rear diff work scares your mechanic. One thing you could do is have him put in just the transmission, and leave out the rear section of driveshaft. It will drive fine as a FWD car until you can tackle the rear diff swap and make it AWD. There are write ups on how to do the swap and what parts need to be transfered over on the SVX forums. Do some searches so you know exactly what needs to be done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan H Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 I have a 1992 SVX with a bad tranny, I bought a tranny and rear diff from a 1998 forester s automatic, will this be a good swap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 7 hours ago, Juan H said: I have a 1992 SVX with a bad tranny, I bought a tranny and rear diff from a 1998 forester s automatic, will this be a good swap? Should be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan H Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 2 hours ago, idosubaru said: Should be. My mechanic is pulling the bad transmission out of the SVX today so we can compare with the forester tranny, anything we need to keep from the SVX to use on forester tranny? Thank you in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 (edited) 7 hours ago, Juan H said: My mechanic is pulling the bad transmission out of the SVX today so we can compare with the forester tranny, anything we need to keep from the SVX to use on forester tranny? Thank you in advance hold onto the bad trans until you know the donor trans pan isn’t dented and it doesn’t have toque bind. And it’s not missing the torque converter, stubby shafts, or shift switch on the passengers side. Usualky they just come with all that stuff but I’ve seen all of those missing or damaged before too. but in general, Nope. They’re basically the same trans with slightly different guts inside and all that stuff usually stays with the trans Torque bind isn’t uncommon so if you wanted you could save the rear extension housing (it’s like 6 or 8 easy bolts and it pops right off). It has the 4WD clutches and solenoid. Or just hold onto the trans At least until you drive it and verify the donor trans doesn’t have torque bind. Then throw it away or keep the rear housing if you have room. make sure he knows how to properly seat the torque converter, if you don’t the oil pump will crack inside the trans. The torque converter and flex plate should not touch when the trans is bolted up to the engine and installed. The flex plate bolts will draw them together. Edited March 18 by idosubaru 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Juan H Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 3 hours ago, idosubaru said: hold onto the bad trans until you know the donor trans pan isn’t dented and it doesn’t have toque bind. And it’s not missing the torque converter, stubby shafts, or shift switch on the passengers side. Usualky they just come with all that stuff but I’ve seen all of those missing or damaged before too. but in general, Nope. They’re basically the same trans with slightly different guts inside and all that stuff usually stays with the trans Torque bind isn’t uncommon so if you wanted you could save the rear extension housing (it’s like 6 or 8 easy bolts and it pops right off). It has the 4WD clutches and solenoid. Or just hold onto the trans At least until you drive it and verify the donor trans doesn’t have torque bind. Then throw it away or keep the rear housing if you have room. make sure he knows how to properly seat the torque converter, if you don’t the oil pump will crack inside the trans. The torque converter and flex plate should not touch when the trans is bolted up to the engine and installed. The flex plate bolts will draw them together. Transmission is on the car now, we only encounter that the rear differential it’s different where the axle inserts into the differential. Do we need to change anything on the rear differential? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 (edited) On 3/18/2024 at 10:19 PM, Juan H said: Transmission is on the car now, we only encounter that the rear differential it’s different where the axle inserts into the differential. Do we need to change anything on the rear differential? Well shoot, I'm unsure about the SVX The SVX has a rear LSD, I wonder if those axles are different. My guess is you swap the rear diff guts. Which isn't hard nor does it take long...but I've never done it with an SVX so I'm unsure on what can be done or best approach. Here is what you need to end up with from swapping the guts between the two differentials: 1. The ring and pinion from the forester (for the proper 4.44 gear ratio to match the transmission) 2. the rear diff chunk from the LSD (because it'll properly receive your axles). I'm just not sure which housing to use, either: A. install the Forester ring and pinion into the SVX housing. The pinion bolts to the housing and the ring bolts to the (SVX) diff chunk. In this case you'd want new pinion seals and side seals. or B. install the SVX guts into the forester housing with it's original Forester ring and pinion. If you do this - you keep all the side caps, shims, everything identical in the SVX and swap them to the forester. In this case you'd want new side seals. B would be easier because you don't have to mess with the pinion which is kind of beastly and then you probably need to replace the pinion seal and maybe that messes with preload on the R&P? It might be better to keep the R&P within it's own housing....just a wild guess but that's also what I've always done. The non-LSD housings (the forester) have little bumps inside you grind down so the larger SVX LSD chunk can clear the housing. It's not as hard as it sounds. Try to install the LSD chunk and you'll see it hits the bumps inside. Knock that down with a grinder until the LSD fits. It's not much and doesn't take long. Another option might be some kind of axle swap or frankenstein axle, but I'm unsure if that's even possible. I've done these types of rear diff gut swaps to change gear ratios or swap LSD chunks, but I've never done it with an SVX or due to axle problems, so that's why I'm unsure. Edited March 20 by idosubaru Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_freddo Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 B - swap LSD centre into the diff housing with the desired diff ratio. Easiest option when changing diff ratios with the LSD that’s retained. Cheers Bennie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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