jread Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Wondering if its possible to replace the fusible links on a '93 Loyale with normal fuses? It seems common for them to have connection issues and I just don't understand why use an old system when there is a newer more reliable one in existence? Can't seem to find anything in search so what is the deal here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Not sure about the Loyale, but on the EA81 & 82 GL/DL & XT's thru '88, you can use the tall, square mega fuses for GM trucks like '05-'09. Properly rated of course... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 the 93 Loyale is an EA82 beast is it not ? the plastic updates are generally known as FFL - Female Fusible Links and you need to get the long legged variety - inside seam is where they differ Big discussion elsewhere on what rating to use. My rule of thumb was to halve things. For the black genuine, and any other colour genuine fabric covered FL - look at rating of black FFL - think they are 80A - use a FFL half that 80A rating - might be green or pink. Keep going, to replace red fabric FL, look at rating of red FFL and use a FFL rated at half the red FFL - worked for me ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-tombba- Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 I've replaced my fusible link wires with the never boxed fusible links. I just followed the color coding as jono mentioned earlier and ended up with this kind of setup: (Note it's not my picture but I have the same setup): So it's 80A for the black wire, 50A for the red wire and 40A to the green wires. These fuses just pop in to the place of original ones so they are probably the easiest ones to put in place of the original wires. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Yep. Those are them. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 yeah, but importantly, I said halve the number before selecting - so where the black 80 is in this pic - I fitted in a green 40A and so on. I know this pic and no reports of failure in 2 years, probably as nothing has gone wrong, but when it does, may fail to protect as desired ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 Why would you go half the raiting? why would they fail sooner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 why halve the rating? To be doubly sure they are protecting your car from catching fire. They are supposed to blow first when something goes wrong. So if Jono's car shorts out 60A on his black wire, his fuse will blow, whereas your's may not, and hence maybe have other problems. Like fire... I didn't know that you could get newer style ones to fit. I've never had one blow. And I just keep a few spares that I've gotten from the wreckers over the years My problem is having the cap which isn't broken on the hinge... I've stashed a few that I've found at the wrecker over the years too. And always remember to unclip it from the hinge side, not the way Subaru intended. I suspect keeping foreign crud out of the box would help with the fuses longevity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 11, 2015 Author Share Posted May 11, 2015 Should tackle this soon and replace the ancient wires that may be causing me problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-tombba- Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Some years ago when I first had to replace my black fusible wire link I changed it to a 50A (green) boxed FL fuse. It tended to blow even that there was nothing wrong to be found in the electrical system. After that I changed it to that black one and it worked well. It's ofcourse better to use smaller rated fuses if they do last in there, but in my case those just kept popping without any good reason. That 80A/40A/50A/40A is just what I've been using without problems and not a quideline for others. Best thing in this setup is that you can use those female socket boxed FL fueses straight in the original fuse holder and just pick the right size that feels good or works for your setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ford'ssubaru's Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Awesome Idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 Why would you go half the raiting? why would they fail sooner? elsewhere in here is same sort of thread, with a link to ausubaru.com where, think it goes for eight or nine pages on why most chose smaller ratings. An auto elec told one member just to swap colour for colour , others did some testing in comparison to blow a few and looked like black 80 FFL has greater blow resistance than originals. Fuse manufacturers not comply with a universal code. Much discussion and thought went into it, searhes of other forums as well, discussions again, theories to show 80A aint the same as 80A in some applications. I used my half theory as a protectionist angle, loaded up all circuits with everything lit up, elec fans on inside and out, wipers, horn blowing and engine up and down the rev range. Nothing blew, so I felt no need to increase the ratings incrementally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skishop69 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 It is true that fusible links actually require more amperage and time to blow. Resistance of the wire and such. If Jono has been using his setup without issue as far as loading is concerned, I'd stand behind what he has done and say his ratings are good and safe. Of course, that's just because I'm lazy and don't want to do the testing and the math. lol Seriously though, you do need to run smaller rated fuses than fusible links so go with his numbers. Worst case, you have to step them up 10amps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jono Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 just found a reference card I made up for what I used - and yeah, like skishop says if you start low and blow - could be stranded if no spares also ! go up in 5 or ten Amps I think the key is that the genuines are not rated to the current colour coding ! They came with 0.85mm sq, 1.25mm sq grading etc. So, then someone on ausub tested things from size not colour I recorded for black cloth type use 40A GREEN FFL green cloth use 20A which is light blue or WHITE ? FFL red cloth used light blue 25A or 30A pink FFL check the numbers on FFLs you buy, think some makers used white instead of light blue !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 In 425,000 miles, I only had two problems with the fusible link area. First problem is the Black link wire that carries the power from the alternator, gets hard and broke inside the box. The engine suddenly and without warning, decided to not start when I was out in the sticks in a foreign country. I figured it out after an hour, and rotated one of the other wires into that slot as an emergency. Second problem, was with the black lead wire coming out of the bottom of the fusible link box, that leads to the battery hot terminal. The engine could barely run when the headlights were on and any other accessory. The black lead wire had become hard for about 2 inches from the battery connector end. I spliced in a new lead wire using a standard butt splice connector and the engine then ran even worse, most likely due to the limited contact surface inside of the standard butt connector. So I then removed about 3/4" of wire cover from each joining wire piece, splayed them out and then interwove those splays but pushing end to end. Then I twisted them in opposite directions and applied electrical tape to secure. A similar third problem, I also discovered that the engine ground wire to body, had similar hardening at both ends next to the connectors. This wire is just in front of the battery. I replaced the entire wire with a much lower mileage ground wire and everything now works as it should, with no reduction in rpm's when headlights and accessories are turned on. I am happy as a clam right now. I should have done this a 100,000 miles ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jread Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 Sounds like I need to replace mine! Having tons of seemingly weak electrical problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.