Well per rockauto it seems a '99 OBW and a '99 Forester w/ 2.5L H4 engines take different timing belts.

 

Gates TB for a '99 Forester will fit:

SAAB 9-2X 2005 SUBARU FORESTER (1999 - 2010) SUBARU IMPREZA (1999 - 2005) SUBARU IMPREZA 2.5I (2006 - 2011) SUBARU IMPREZA OUTBACK SPORT (2006 - 2011) SUBARU IMPREZA SPORT (2008 - 2011) SUBARU LEGACY (1999 - 2012) SUBARU OUTBACK (2000 - 2012)

Please refer to catalog for application details.

 

It could be an older EJ25D belt that you got which would be different.

Foresters had swapped to the SOHC motors in 99 along with Impreza while most outbacks still carried the DOHC motor. Hence different part numbers

 

 

 

 

And yes. There were two different timing belts for the SOHC Ej25s. Found this thread while swapping an Impreza motor into an outback.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/90803-new-timing-belt-delivered-important-information-inclosed/

 

Sounds like you should be using the B304 (13028-AA181) part vs the 307 for legacy and most outbacks. Although it sounds more like a difference of shape than tooth count.

I did not see that in my cross referencing. Using the 304 kit.

Have any more info on this ej25d belt or can you help me with a link?

Double post

Edited May 31, 201510 yr by rrgrr

Triple sorry

Edited May 31, 201510 yr by rrgrr

EJ25D is the older dual overhead cam motor. You forester would have a single overhead cam. That's why Lstevens was confused. They would have only been in 99 legacy and outbacks but not a 99 forester.

13208AA181 (supercede # is 230) is the OE number for a '99 Forester.

Edited June 1, 201510 yr by ccrinc

This thread has gotten sidetracked, the Outback is '01, and Might take the 307, the Forester is '99 and I only see the 304 kit for it -which is what I have.

The lines on the belt will not stretch to make all 3 marks align. If I can get the left and crank lined up, when I put the right on the marks- the cam has ALOT of spring tension wanting it to spin away. This has me thinking the valves are bent in there and springs are loaded where they shouldn't be. (?)

Any help greatly aprreciated.

Try flipping the belt around. If it's an aftermarket without directional arrows you could have it reversed.

Gates belt -the arrows want to point At the mark as in this pic:

Belt marks are often wrong. Does the belt kit say the total tooth count for that belt? There are different belts for the SOHC engines and the way to identify them is by total tooth count.

I meant the directional arrows for which way the belt turns. I see the timing marks, but don't see directioball arrows. Try turning the belt around.

The '99 OBW has the Phase 1 dual cam shaft engine, which has four overhead camshafts. The '99 Forester has the Phase 2 single cam  shaft engine, which has two overhead camshafts. So, the two timing belts aren't even close to being the same.

Edited June 2, 201510 yr by The Dude

I meant the directional arrows for which way the belt turns. I see the timing marks, but don't see directioball arrows. Try turning the belt around.

The arrows are in the first pic pointing at the mark.

 

Again, there is No '99 Outback in this thread. It is an '01.

The arrows are in the first pic pointing at the mark.

 

Again, there is No '99 Outback in this thread. It is an '01.

 

I see them now.  I was on my phone and the picture just wasn't big enough to see them. lol  

 

I would do a tooth count as others have recommended.  If the tooth count is right then just line up the cams/crank and try it.

My method is to gently turn the motor by hand. If it hangs up somewhere, back it up and re-time. If you can go a full revolution (2 for the crank sprocket) and all the timing marks align again, you're good to go. 

 

And yes, ignore the marks on the belt. 

Thanks I went looking for tooth count in another thread and marked the belt(-it looks to be way off-) but have not been able to confirm what the numbers are.

Logged into Autozone and this is what I found:

 

Make alignment and/or arrow marks on the timing belt in relation to the sprockets as indicated in the accompanying illustration. 
 

 

Z1: 46.8 tooth length

 

 

Z2: 43.7 tooth length

Edited June 4, 201510 yr by lstevens76

So I marked the belt with the AutoZone lines and here's how it "lands" with the cam and crank timing marks aligned:

Maybe you can see my marks (arrows drawn to them)

It still doesn't look like you have all of the idlers installed. Remove the tensioner, Install all of the other idlers and see how the belt lines up then.

Your right side (passenger) sprocket doesn't look like its lined up with the seam on the head properly. Line up the notch on the sprocket with the seam between the camshaft retainer plate and the main body of the head.

In the pic you have 2 seams. First on left is the valve cover to cam retainer, second is the cam retainer to cylinder head. The retainer to head seam is exactly in the middle of the camshaft, that is the one you need to line up to. Do the same on the drivers side.

 

Your crankshaft notch is not lined up with the notch in the sensor housing. Turn that just a hair clockwise so the notch lines up.

 

Leave the tensioner off, install all of the other idlers.

Starting at the crank place the belt on the sprocket and hold in place. (I like to use a small spring clamp to hold the belt in place. I have one that I cut one side narrow so it fits into the slots in the face of the crank and gives a solid hold)

Run the belt under the top idler, around the right side (passenger) cam sprocket. Turn the sprocket sightly clockwise so the teeth line up, then turn counter clockwise to pull slack out of the belt between the cam and crank. Use a clamp to hold.

 

Run the belt across the lower idler, cogged idler, water pump, keeping the belt taught the whole way, then wrap around the left hand side ( drivers) cam sprocket. Use a 17mm box end wrench to turn the drivers cam slightly clockwise (no more than 1 tooth) so the belt teeth fall into the sprocket, then turn counter clockwise to pull the slack out of the belt and line up the timing notch. Use a clamp to secure.

 

Now, the belt should be taught the entire way way around, with all slack between the drivers cam sprocket and the crank sprocket.

 

Double check that the crank notch is still lined up perfectly with the notch in the sensor housing. If not, rotate the crank slightly so it is.

 

The drivers cam sprocket may like up half a tooth to one side or the other of the seam between the cam plate and the head. If so, ensure that it is lined up slightly toward the drivers side of the seam. (Think 12:01 on a clock) if the notch is toward the passenger side (11:59) remove the clamp, turn the sprocket clockwise one tooh and reset the belt on the sprocket, then turn counter clockwise to pull the slack out. Secure with a clamp.

Again, there should be NO slack anywhere on the belt except for between the crank sprocket and the drivers cam.

 

Install the tensioner assembly, use a screwdriver or prybar wedged between the tensioner and top bracket to apply tension on the belt.

 

Spin the crank 2 turns to ensure the notch marks all line up. Do NOT pay attention to belt marks, because they will never line up again after rotating the crank. Notches only. If the notches don't line up, reset the belt.

If the notches line up, pull the pin on the tensioner and you're done.

It's Alive!!! :D   Thank You So much Fairtax4me!! -I have never done it that way.

All the tooth count info looks to be incorrect, also, the printed marks on this belt would never work.

 

Now to take it all apart and put the water pump, etc, in.

So I'm guessing it runs ok? Post a video of it running.

Edited June 7, 201510 yr by lstevens76

Awesome!

If It runs smooth, put it back together and enjoy!

 

I keep meaning to do a picture/video writeup with that method but I haven't ever had the time when doing a timing belt job. Maybe some day...

It is back together and running good!

Thanks again, Could not have done that without your excellent help!

I was really getting sidetracked with all the tooth count and whatnot.

Now I am having a beer!

Cheers!!

This is Ted