A few weeks ago I took my car into auto zone and had a cel checked. I don't remember the codes but one of them was for a misfire and the other was for the maf sensor. They recommend new plugs, wires, and maf. Changed all of them and the car ran fine. About a week later the cel came back on. The car ran fine up until a few days ago. I was stopped at a light and when I accelerated it hesitated then kept going. Stopped again and idled fine. Started going and noticed a flashing cel light. A mile later and I was home. Turned off the car and waited a minute and started it. Cel was steady so I took it around the block and no issues. The next day I drove it to work and about a mile on the highway the cel started flashing and noticed a reduction in power. I pulled over shut off the engine. Popped the hood and checked all the connections. Started it and no more flashing cel. Proceeded to work without issue and back home. I took it back to auto zone and the codes were misfire cylinder 2 and knock sensor bank 1. Took it home and decided to pull the battery and reset the codes. Wenter a bit 10 miles with no issues then the cel came back on. About a mile later there was some engine hesitation and vibration. Pulled over and let it idle. I then started out again and it ran fine for a few more miles and hesitated again. This time I just backed off the gas and hit it and the car ran fine all the way home. What could be wrong???

what kind of wires and plugs were used? soobs are picky about that.

 

you should consider taking it back to the shop - most have a warranty on work for a few weeks.

 

if you are not confident with them, try asking for a shop near your city in a new thread.

Edited August 11, 201510 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

Just food for thought, it would be a bad ignition coil.

I had a 97' legacy outback that had an issue with misfires and it turned out the coil was my issue. 

Just food for thought.

Just took it in to auto zone and the 2 same codes came up. 302 cylinder 2 misfire and 325 knock sensor. Would a knock sensor give a false signal?

If you have a code for the knock sensor it's because the ECU is not getting a signal from it.

 

Knock sensors are a common failure and cheap to replace. Less than $20 on eBay.

 

Erratic signal from the knock sensor can cause hesitation, and possibly set misfire codes, but usually misfires are caused by spark plugs or wires.

The wires on these can be tricky to get clicked down all the way. Also these cars will not run well with very cheap wires. If you bought the cheapest set, take them back and exchange them for a higher quality set of wires.

The plugs are Bosch and the wires are OMS. Wheres a good place to buy the knock sensor from besides ebay?

Bosch what?

Super

 

Single Platinum, waste of money.

 

Double platinum, fine but cost more and not necessary.

 

+2 or +4, neither of these work in subarus

 

 

NGK plain copper or V-power copper plugs are recommended for that engine.

 

Never heard of OMS, can't speak to their quality. NGK or Denso are highest quality. I've used Standard Ignition and Carquest wires on these with no problems.

 

 

Amazon has knock sensors for good prices.

Local parts stores often charge very high prices ($80-100) for the same part you can get on eBay.

Iridium fine wire plugs and omnispark wires.

I would get NGK or Denso plugs and wires.

Should I replace the plugs first then the knock sensor?

Should I replace the plugs first then the knock sensor?

knock sensor for certain. - cheap and fairly easy.

 

 

do you still have your old wires? you could try them. If it helps, don't put the OMS back on.

So I had to make an emergency run to the store and as soon as I got the car over 45 the cel started flashing and the car was jerking. Pulled over and turned to car off then started it and kept it under 40 and no issues. Looks like I'll be ordering a knock sensor in the morning.

Knock sensors are known to crack on those years. I would start with the knock sensor. When that code comes on yes it can make the vehicle stumble for a second like it's almost going to stall out then it will be very lacking in power. The ECU retards timing to the edge of its map as a failsafe which while great for reducing the possibility of knock stinks for power production. There may very well be additional issues with the plugs and/or wires or other ignition component.

 

Just saw your last post. Flashing CEL is often for misfire. 

Edited August 12, 201510 yr by porcupine73