I'm having trouble gettin the upper caliper bolt undone. Soaking it in pb blaster which worked for the lower one.

No access to a torch right now though. Frustrating as hell

 

 

Why are you undoing the upper?  Pull the lower, slip the caliper up, then pull the pin out.  You need to grease the pins anyways.

 

If it's the bracket are you replacing rotors as well?

Yeah I'm replacing the rotors. It was the upper bracket bolt I was having trouble with. I stuck my wife's cigarette lighter to for a bit and it eventually worked.

I got the passangerside rotor and pad done, it's pretty dark now so I will get the other tomorrow. Here is a picture of my pads. Seems the inside pad has a lot left to it and the outside pad is all but gone.

The caliper piston moved without much trouble. Is this something I should worry about? Some trouble with caliper?

Did you grease the pins?  Again, did you grease the pins? 

 

I said it twice because anytime those pins are not greased one side may not slide correctly causing exactly what your seeing.  

 

And the fact that it seems a lot of people (shops included) don't grease the pins when replacing pads.

^^ what he said - lack of lube or too much rust or some other issue with the caliper sliding.

Talking about the pin that holds the caliper together? Lower pin got lubed, upper pin I did not. Boot seemed uncracked and ok so I did not want to mess with it. Should I try and slide it out?

Edited September 21, 201510 yr by subakev

You need to remove the pins (they will come out of the rubber boot) and grease them every time you replace the pads.  This is where people make a mistake and damage calipers and pads.

 

The condition of the boot makes very little difference in whether or not the grease dries out, wears out, etc....    You have to also realize there is a lot of heat around the brakes when braking that accelerates this.

Ok I will pop it off again and lube it up. Thanks for the advice.

 

I ended up not replacing the drivers side rotor, as the pads were not wore down much at all. Still a good ways from metal on metal and the rotor wasn't scratched at all. So I put new pads on and the test drive went well. No more grinding sound and the car stops well after I followed the break in instructions that came with the pads

Ok I will pop it off again and lube it up. Thanks for the advice.

 

I ended up not replacing the drivers side rotor, as the pads were not wore down much at all. Still a good ways from metal on metal and the rotor wasn't scratched at all. So I put new pads on and the test drive went well. No more grinding sound and the car stops well after I followed the break in instructions that came with the pads

 

 

You want to grease both pins on both sides.  Then monitor that passenger side and make sure it doesn't start happening again.  I would also bleed the brakes all the way around and get any old fluid out of the system.

Going to get to get this done sometime over the couple of days. Thanks