Hi, new to sight and subaru. I just purchased a 1996 legacy Brighton. 147000 miles, auto, awd. I've driven the car about 1000 miles with zero mechanical issues. The car leaked oil everywhere. So I pulled the engine, changed cam seals, rear main, oil separator plate, valve cover gaskets, and re-fuji'd the oil pan. After re-installing the engine runs great with no leaks. However when I turn at very low speeds I get a stutter/resistance. My ATF fluid is proper level and pink. My front diff fluid looks clean and proper level. Rear diff also looks clean and proper level. No lights or engine codes. When I use the fused fwd mode the stutter goes away. Please please help. Thank you for reading my long post

And I have shop receipts showing front axles were replaced roughly 15k ago. Thanks again

Welcome aboard, Hopper.  Sounds like torque bind for sure.  You might try a search here on USMB--it's a big topic and there's a lot written about it.  Good luck.

First I think your front hub is stripped on one side or the other only chattering in a turn.

 

Second while having a torque bind on my 2009 Forester,  (Take this with a grain of salt cause there is better people here than me) I was researching it and read about your very problem.  I was a cheap rump roast and was running new tire in the front and half worn tires in the rear and it burnt out my differential that was in the rear of my tranny.  Fairly easy fix though.  Kinda spendy.  Like I said there is some salty dawgs here that will help give them a minute.  Welcome!

Edited September 25, 201510 yr by ford'ssubaru's

From what I'm reading I need to try a Trans flush or 3 drain and fills. And pray that works lol

If it's the clutches, anybody know roughly what a shop charges?

Unless you find a shop that specializes in Subaru, most shops won't take the tail housing off to replace the transfer clutch parts.

 

But if you can pull an engine and reseal it, you can replace the transfer clutch drum yourself.

 

Try the drain and fill first.

Make sure all 4 tires are the same model, size, and treadwear. No more than 1/4" difference in circumference allowable between the tire with the most tread and the one with the least.

All four tires are brand new sumitumo, same size, set at 32psi. I will do the drain and fill route. I'll post results. Where can I buy quality clutch/drum parts?

Just to 100% clarify, I need to change the Trans fluid using gl-5 ATF II?

No!

Trans fluid is Dexron III ATF. Most "Multi-vehicle" or generic ATF will meet Dexron III spec.

 

Gear oil (front and rear differentials) is GL-5 80w-90.

Edited September 25, 201510 yr by Fairtax4me

Ten4

Figured I'd chime in as it'll be helpful in the future and might as well do it anyways, is replace the power steering fluid if it's original. Mine was around 180k miles and I noticed the steering was getting more difficult at slower speeds about a day or 2 after having an alignment and the new tie-rods installed. My 1st reaction was the mechanic did something wrong, but figured I'd check the PS pump fluid before making a jerk out of myself. It was at the line where it was supposed to be, but was REALLY dark. Since I couldn't do a full tear down and the "Subaru" method of draining the pump reservoir, I used a turkey baster and sucked the old fluid out, topped off with fresh fluid, drove around 20 miles to get it circulated with whatever was still in the lines, then suctioned that out and refilled again. Amazingly, the steering was better than when I'd gotten the car 2 years prior and immediately eased up with effort. 

 

While you most likely have torque bind, putting the car into FWD changes the handling fairly drastically in my opinion; car oversteers heavily in FWD, and understeers greatly when in AWD to the point I can instantly tell just by driving. It also acts like a traditional FWD car in turns when on.

 

Doesn't hurt the car to have fresh fluid and for $8 it's a simple rule-out of the more expensive TB.

Ten4

Dexron III is hard to find. Dexron IV, V, etc. supersede III, so you can use that instead. Look on the bottle of whatever you buy as it'll state what it's certified for. Also, don't be cheap with it. Get the better branded fluid and change at recommended intervals. If you aren't pulling the torque converter, keep in mind it's raunchy fluid will mix with the new AND will account for some volume, so be SURE to add fluid, start car, put it in D then R, then N, then repeat several times of different gears (stationary in your driveway, do NOT drive it) THEN check the stick while it's still running. If low, add some more and repeat the D-R-N so it circulates correctly. I suggest using the cheap brand for the first fill up, drive it 30-50 kilometers, drain that, then refill with the better brand IF you don't pull the torque converter as it'll allow that old fluid to dilute with the first fluid, and by the time you do the 2nd fill it'll be minute and the fresh stuff will be in the converter.

Thank y'all for the info, waiting for it to cool down to start this process. The only fluid available right now is cheap fluid. If it fixes itself I'll change it again with quality fluid. Thanks again

hopper I had the same problem with my 96.  I did the trans fluid and a new filter,,  it went away.

I drained/filled drove 20 miles, drained/filled drove 20 miles, drained/filled. It seems to have worked. I'll drain/fill/new filter in a month with good fluid. Thank y'all for the info. Very helpful

Sounds good. Yes the ATF friction modifiers degrade over time and something like the transfer clutch might get a bit chatty. There was a bulletin out at one time I believe that mentioned adding Lubegard black to the ATF periodically. I believe the idea is it's laden with friction modifiers to make clutches a bit happier.

 

The filter on there I wouldn't really worry about since it's really more of a suction strainer for the ATF pump than an actual filter.

 

Anyway enjoy I too have a '96 Legacy Brighton and if it weren't for rust eating the poor thing alive and every metal line ATF, fuel, etc it can find I could probably drive it another 20 years!

If power steering effort gets harder over time, change that fluid too. It uses the exact same Dexron III, which degrades heavily over time. So if your trans' Dexron was bad, power steering won't be far behind (verify it's Dexron in power steering 1st). Chances are the power steering effort is already degraded. Should be fairly light steering wheel effort when correct. It also helps avoid more costly PS pump and rack issues later. JFYI....

I'm confused, Bushwick are you in the US?

 

O'Rielly, Autozone, Advanced Auto, and NAPA all sell a Dexron 3/Mercon transmission fluid that us usually available in there generic as well. I've never had a hard time finding it.

 

Now if you are not in the US that.could be an entirely different situation.

I'm confused, Bushwick are you in the US?

 

O'Rielly, Autozone, Advanced Auto, and NAPA all sell a Dexron 3/Mercon transmission fluid that us usually available in there generic as well. I've never had a hard time finding it.

 

Now if you are not in the US that.could be an entirely different situation.

 I'm in the US. Last time I went to Auto Zone (to replace the power steering fluid) they only had IV and higher in quantity. I think they had one off-brand bottle in III. They were saying the newer stuff supersedes III hence the poor selection of it.

 

Back in the mid/late 90's I worked at a trans shop during a summer yanking trans for the techs to do the rebuilds. Something like 75% to almost 80% of the "newer" cars coming in were GM with 65k-100k (most were around 80K miles) and completely wrecked trans with disgusting smelling fluid. Anyways, I'm betting this why they "upgraded" the fluid so many times. III "works", but for better longevity might as well go with the newer stuff.

Right I don't think you can find a true Dexron III ATF anymore because GM stopped renewing licenses to blenders for it some years back. i have seen them say something like for applications formerly calling for Dexron II/IIE/III etc.