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Squeaking Noise In Reverse 95' Legacy L Wagon

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Only bearings you can repack with grease are ones with actual needles or balls. And even then, that's a more or less temp solution and requires pressing grease into the side dust covers by hand then wiping excess, and you need to catch it very early on before it eats the needles/balls up, and won't prevent lateral loading issues from a heavily worn bearing. I did this on a couple of my timing belt pulleys (not recommended and not telling others to do this, especially on interference engines) that were on the dry side and they've held up OK, but again this isn't recommended.


Here's a video of a center carrier bearing failure:





Should be similar to our cars. But I'd have to think it'd make noise regardless of direction the car is moving unless it's loading it differently in reverse?


Get a video of the noise and link here (use youtube and just link) and others will pipe up. 



Does the sound change or go away with forced FWD (putting fuse in the FWD holder under the hood)? I get some noise with forced FWD but it's up under the hood. Pretty sure it's the dog bone at the top of the trans, but not positive. It only occurs on hard acceleration in FWD.

Edited by Bushwick
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I just started getting a similar squeak and it is the carrier bearing on mine. Only does it once it has warmed up. I removed the driveshaft to check all the u-joints and the bearing and the bearing is totally smooth when its cold. I had to drive around until it started making the noise put the car on 4 jack stands and crawl underneath with it running in third gear to finally determine it was the carrier bearing. I shot some PB on it and it stopped making noise for about 20 miles.


Unfortunately its difficult to find a new bearing and more difficult to install. Best option is to just replace the driveshaft. New is usually $350-400. Used is much cheaper but a gamble.

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LOL, it sounds like an old, worn out mattress in one of those $15 a night motels. 



If it were me, I'd ascertain exactly what's making noise, but everyone is probably correct. Good news is these cars are overly abundant so a used drive shaft should be like $20-50 depending where you go, just remember to inspect the donor's bearing and use yours for a reference of how bad the donor might be. If you call around, don't mention anything about carrier bearings, etc. Just ask point-blank how much a driveshaft is for a Subaru. Reason I'm saying this is some "unscrupulous" yards might try charging you more if you say the carrier bearing is attached. I don't trust most yards and have been given prices before only to be told things were extra at the counter which in some cases can be someone skimming $$, so get their name (if over the phone) and repeat the price back i.e. $25 for a Subaru driveshaft, right?" This way if they try tacking on extra $$ you can call them out on it.


In a temporary pinch to get you by, I believe you can remove the driveshaft and run it forced FWD. I know someone on here did this to theirs and it's driveable. But it supposedly puts extra strain on the solenoid that decouples the rear, so keep that in mind. You could also try mashing grease in there and see if that quiets it or not (vs. say raising the car to inspect). Not exactly sure what type of bearing it is, but it'd at least quiet the noise if it's actually faulty and buy you time to get $$ to replace yourself. If you attempt the repair yourself, but some red thread loctite and apply that to bolt threads and torque to spec. One of my Mustangs from years past liked to loosen the rear shaft bolts at the flange and I was unaware of thread locker back then. Just add a few drops. This way, if there's a slight unbalance, the vibrations won't cause the bolts to back out. Believe it or not, anything that moves at higher RPMS like lug nuts/bolts to driveshaft bolts can completely work themselves OUT if not torqued correctly. I once has a rear wheel come off an F150 I was towing on a dolly in under 45 miles. One of those weird physics deals. So, just be safe.

Edited by Bushwick
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Nope. Outback has a different carrier bearing mounting bracket. It will throw off the u-joint angles and cause major vibration on your car.


If yours is automatic. You need to find a 95-99 legacy L LS LSI or GT with an auto trans. Lucky for you, auto trans cars are easier to find.


If its a manual trans, any of those with a manual trans will work.

Edited by Fairtax4me
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