4EAT Removal and replacement write-up or video?

[jmoss5723]

Does anyone know where I can find a write-up or video to walk me through removing a 4EAT from a 2003 Outback wagon? I've searched quite a bit, but I haven't come up with anything yet.

 

Ordinarily, I'd just crawl under there and figure it out, but I need to have as quick of a turnaround as possible, so I'm looking to do a little homework and get it right the first time around.

 

[plogerjb]

Don't have any info on that, but as someone who is currently dealing with headaches, I highly recommend paying good attention to the torque converter and oil pump shaft assembly.

[idosubaru]

Get a factory service manual - detailed step by step.  Skim it and ask any questions.

2003 transmissions (even H6's) are exactly the same are removing the 4EAT from my 1980's XT6's. 

There's almost no appreciable difference at all - exhaust, mounts, bellhousing bolts, TC bolts, starter, driveshaft, CV's.

 

Main tricky parts are:
1.  rusty exhaust bolts - the exhaust manifolds - make sure you use 6 point sockets and don't strip the nuts.  Or be prepared to cut them off with a dremel.  Converter flange bolts - they'll shear off or cut them.

 

2.  tilting the engine/transmission so the trans comes out - the bellhousing will want to hit the transmission tunnel of the chassis without sufficient angle pulling off the lower end studs.

front of engine needs pushed up so the rear of the trans will rotate down and angle out without the fat bellhousing hitting the trans tunnel.

only tricky because there's no set measurements, it's not hard in and of itself.

if you've pulled an engine/trans before - then you already know/get this.

 

1. drain gear oil and ATF from trans and disconnect ATF lines at trans (ATF will want to pour out when you pull the driveshaft out the rear).

2. remove front wheels, inner CV roll pins, top strut mount bolts (mark head location for reinstall/alignment), and loosen the lower strut mount bolt so you can pull on steering knuckle to pull axle off trans stub

(no need to remove the axle or axle nut)

3. remove exhaust under trans

4. remove bellhousing bolts, pitch stopper (dogbone), and starter, disconnect transmission electrical connector.

(pulling axles first gives easier access to those lower annoying 14mm nuts

*Make sure you get all the bolts - look on the donor trans for each bolt location and verify you removed it - it's easy to miss one on these "8 bolt" bellhousings.

5. remove engine mount nuts - 14mm

6. support trans (floor jack, straps, chain through engine bay) - and remove trans mounts

7.  disconnect neutral safety switch cable/connector - the shifting mechanism on the passengers side front of the trans and the rear O2 sensor - i think it connects to the rear passengers side of the trans if it's still attached.

8. tilt trans back and pull it out.

[idosubaru]

email me yahoo and my username here and i can dropbox a couple FSM's to you.

[987687]

Only thing I'd add to that pretty good list are that you can drop the exhaust as one piece to avoid dealing with the cat converter bolts. Sometimes I find it easier to do this, then I can drag the whole exhaust system out from under the car and it's not in the way anymore.

 

Also, there are steel alignment pins that press into the bellhousings between the engine and trans. Sometimes they stay in the engine, sometimes they stay in the trans. Make sure that your new trans and engine will line up in terms of those, ie. don't have no pin on one side or two pins on one side, it's extremely annoying to remedy this issue when the trans is 90% installed. Take some emery paper and clean out the alignment peg holes so it slips together easier.

 

When you unbolt the 4 flexplate to torque converter bolts through the access hole, take a screwdriver and push the torque converter back away from the flexplate. Sometimes they can rust together just a bit, enough to pull the torque converter out of the transmission. This isn't a huge deal since you're installing a different trans, but it'll dump atf all over you.

[jmoss5723]

Thanks for the good responses, everyone!

 

As fate would have it, my dad decided that this was a good opportunity to try out the new local independent Subaru mechanic. So I don't get to take a crack at it this time. This guy is doing it today for $370 including fluid and filter. I was going to do it, but my brother has his new (very used) $400 Impreza torn apart in my parents' garage and Dad needs the Outback back ASAP.

 

On one hand, I was looking forward to the learning experience because with 10 Subarus in the family this will not likely be the last time that this needs to be done. On the other hand, I'm way too busy as it is with a fixer-upper house, a new baby, and car stuff of my own and I don't totally mind catching a break here.

[idosubaru]

$370 is a steal for a subaru independent too.  that's great. 

 can still get you that FSM if you get a dropbox, too big to email

[jmoss5723]

$370 is a steal for a subaru independent too.  that's great. 

 can still get you that FSM if you get a dropbox, too big to email

That's why Dad decided to just go for it. The mechanic is like 25 years old and just starting out so maybe his price is low to start generating some business. I've seen some pretty decent work that he's done, talked to him for a while in a parking lot once, and he is a friend of a friend. Seems like a smart and honest guy and his price is awesome.

 

I just sent a DB file request to your email. Thanks!

[idosubaru]

i sent you a 2002 FSM and the Auto trans section of a 2000 - that's what all the "loose" pages are.

[jmoss5723]

i sent you a 2002 FSM and the Auto trans section of a 2000 - that's what all the "loose" pages are.

 Awesome!

[CNY_Dave]

For 370 hell yeah... great deal.

 

Make sure he knows to slide the TC back!