I just got my hub grappler kit, I'm about to do a set of rear wheel bearings on a 97 impreza.

Of course they only list the front bearing in the book the give you Subaru rear wheel bearings are really the only reason I bought this kit.

 

I figure the same method for the front will probably work for the back as well so I'm crossing my fingers there.

 

Anyone on the board got one of these? Have anyone used it on a rear bearing on a subaru? I've got a couple really rusty rear hub Assembly's off a 97 legacy I can ply around with to get the idea, I'm just hoping it will work for what I just bought it for.

Never mind, I just pulled apart a rear hub assembly off of a 95 legacy I had laying around. Didnt even hesitate to pull apart with my dewalt 1/2" impact. It is the same method for pulling a front bearing, but you have to swap 311882 for 311883 to get the bearing out

I have one. But I've only used it for front subaru wheel bearings so far. And yes, I also noted that their instructions don't cover rear wheel bearings. And even though they do have instructions for the front bearing, you pretty much have to ignore the tool numbers they list and pick out the ones that actually fit.

Despite that, once you've used it a few times and know the correct sizes to actually use, its a pretty quick operation to change a bearing. If you have some that are badly stuck, I've found it helpful to pop the end of the forcing screw with a 3lb hammer after spinning it up tight. That may not be necessary if you have a stronger impact gun than I do. Heat can also be helpful. A torch on the knuckle for just long enough to get it warmed up usually helps break the rust loose. Just don't let it get too hot to the point of glowing.

 

I'm sure with all the tools in the set there are the correct sized tools for the rear bearing.

Ya I noticed that once I used it its really easy to pick out the right size tools.

Yep. I think the worst part is fiddling with that stupid snap ring behind the bearing.

 

Don't get carried away and forget to install a new outer seal before pressing the hub back in.

Now I'm really impressed, I just realized I had done all that with my impact on 2 not even turned up all the way and it did it with ease.

 

Great tool, wish I had bought one a long time ago.

So I have my hub out, and am left with the inner half (axle side) of the inner race stuck to the outer race, which is still in the knuckle. I've removed the axle side seals and tried to knock the half inner race out from the outside in, and it seems the bearings themselves are in a track. It doesn't want to come out.

 

Should I forget about it and just hook up the puller to yank the outer race? I'm kind of stumped, as the new bearing doesn't seem to have a "track" on either side. Is this just a different style bearing? I've double checked, I have the right bearing.

Did you remove the snap ring from the inside of the knuckle? Snap ring has to come out, then the whole outer race is pressed out to the inside.

 

There is a groove that the bearing rollers will jam in and make it difficult for the inner race to separate from the outer race. The two do not need to be separated to get the bearing out.

Yes snap ring is out. I didn't think that the inner race would cause an issue, just wanted to be sure... Thanks first Subie wheel bearing.

Snap ring hung me up at first, I'm elbow deep in this cars wheel bearings.

Check out what I've got to work with

 

I'm having lots of fun. I can't tell where the seal begins and the hub begins.

 

My dewalt has really impressed me, pulled that bearing out with ease.

 

Priest lake mobile repair fully deployed

Took me 6 hours, but I got it.

Otc makes a quality tool for sure, I was really impressed how well it pressed the bearing out and back in again with my battery powered impact, didn't hardly strain itself.

 

Yes snap ring is out. I didn't think that the inner race would cause an issue, just wanted to be sure... Thanks first Subie wheel bearing.

I hope your able to get it, these subie wheel bearings can be a real PITA

6 hours for one or did you do both?

In the snow too my hats off to you sir, good work!

Wow! That's pretty crusty man. Nice work.

 

Did you have any trouble with the lateral link bolt?? My bolt seized inside the rear-rearward lateral link bushing. I dropped the link out of the car and tried to get it out to no avail...it is STUCK, and I can't see any way to get it out without driving out the bushing along with it. So, I either have to replace the bushing, or replace the lateral link.  Subaru is proud of these suckers- $30.50 for the bushing, $23 for the bolt and $6.50 for the nut/washer. They said they'd match the online $90 for the lateral link w/bushings.  Trying to decide whether to go factory or with slightly beefier aftermarket Mevotech or similar.... decisions. Thanks for the pics, always a help.

Edited February 14, 201610 yr by joomanburning

 

6 hours for one or did you do both?

Just one

Wow! That's pretty crusty man. Nice work.

 

Did you have any trouble with the lateral link bolt?? My bolt seized inside the rear-rearward lateral link bushing. I dropped the link out of the car and tried to get it out to no avail...it is STUCK, and I can't see any way to get it out without driving out the bushing along with it. So, I either have to replace the bushing, or replace the lateral link. Subaru is proud of these suckers- $30.50 for the bushing, $23 for the bolt and $6.50 for the nut/washer. They said they'd match the online $90 for the lateral link w/bushings. Trying to decide whether to go factory or with slightly beefier aftermarket Mevotech or similar.... decisions. Thanks for the pics, always a help.

I couldn't get it out either it was going to snap I could tell. I need to invest in a portable torch kit for stuff like this.

 

I ended up taking the suspension arms loose on the other side to get the CV Axel out. Their bushings are shot as well I'm just getting them back on the road for now untill the weather gets better, then I'm going to have yo rebuild the rear end.

 

In the snow too my hats off to you sir, good work!

I got done right before it started to rain too. Worst time of the year for a wheel bearing to go out.

Lucky the axle came out. I've seen a couple of those so stuck there was nothing I could do to get them loose.

 

6 hours seems like a long time to me, but I'm not normally dealing with that much rust. Or snow.

Lucky the axle came out. I've seen a couple of those so stuck there was nothing I could do to get them loose.

 

6 hours seems like a long time to me, but I'm not normally dealing with that much rust. Or snow.

The snow definatly slowed me down, I had to stop a couple times because my knees were frozen.

 

And about 1hr is cussing the engineer that designed this.

Edited February 14, 201610 yr by mikaleda

http://atdtools.com/PDF/ATD8625.pdf

 

If anyone needs it, there are make specific diagrams in above PDF... might be helpful.

Edited February 15, 201610 yr by joomanburning

Just finished up removing/installing hub and bearing with the Harbor Freight hubtamer knockoff.. I can't believe I'm just now finding this tool. Must have for any Subie DIY'er. I bet it took less than 5 minutes, minus the cleanup, to pull the old outer race and press the new bearing and hub back in.