matt167 Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Well, I got my Forester back together, running just like it did but I notice its got a bottom end knock, light but its there... Gonna run as long as it will, but I figure I might need to put a spare together. If I buy a set of extra cylinder heads out of the junkyard it will cost $120. I could get a long block for $240 but it would be a crap shoot. I have an EJ25D long block I could use heads on and I know it was running but had blown gaskets.. An engine out of the junkyard with a decent warranty and known mileage will be $800 from a not so well run junkyard. Or an EJ20 jdm replacement with low miles for same money... I'd plan on buying a new plastic cam gear from the dealer and having it drop in ready.. Which way do I go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 Since you have a DOHC forester, it's a 98 and therefor easy to just do a 2.2 swap. You'll lose a bit of power, but you'll never have to deal with blown headgaskets or rod knock again. I did a 2.2 swap on my 2002 forester and it was great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 6, 2016 Author Share Posted March 6, 2016 I have a 2001 with ej251. I have a spare complete 1999 EJ25D from a 99 Lego SUS. I did a 2.2 swap on the Lego, and then sold it a while ago.. So I know I can only use the 25D shortblock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 So, I'm only thinking, but. I will probably have access to a worn but 'working' TD04 Turbo and factory up and down pipes, since the WRX that I maintain has upgrades in the cards at this point, at the very least were uprgading the full exhaust so I'll have the stock stuff.. I could also have stock 2004 EJ205 injectors depending if we upgrade them.. Also would have stock intercooler available as we will get a new intercooler for WRX. Also will have a factory turbo air filter box and piping since it's getting that in aftermkt also., Now, if I run the EJ25D block with EJ25D gaskets, than I will have about 9.3-9.5:1 since compression goes down with that swap just a little.. I should be able to use a Vortech FMU, stock injectors and an MSD DIS- 2 ( discontinued but stilll available ) and run wastegate pressure ( 8 PSI? on stock WRX turbo ), or enough to get 200hp reliably without really using engine management since the boost is conservitive.. I know that the MSD is not needed but, since I don't want it to blow up I figure I'll run a pressure switch to the 2 step and have it pull timing under boost.. Shouldn't cost more than $500 extra I don't think since the used take off parts will the majority of the expense.. A Greddy Emanage blue would probably work too and they are less than a MSD DIS-2.. Then I could run a brand new STI shortblock ( if the cards alligned ) for lower compression and a little more boost. 10-15 PSI. I think that the stock trans will hold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Wastegate pressure of 5psi can be tolerated on a 9.5:1 assuming you run premium (speaking in general here). Engine will be a tad more responsive than dropping compression, and 10-15psi you really need a proper ECU managing everything plus a bigger fuel pump. Don't forget, you'll need to tap oil feed and return lines, coolant lines, switch to turbo exhaust manifolds and down pipe, run intake piping to turbo and intercooler, etc. and the gains will be barely worth it as 200hp really isn't that much better than a reliable 160hp (frakenbuild) you can install and forget. If the turbo is tired in the present car, it'll be tired after the swap, and becomes a liability if it's got play and the blades are touching or it's bearings are worn. You'd be better off selling all the bits and all engines and swapping in an EZ30-EZ33 and have the actual hp + tq to make it move w/o the hassle. Hell, buy a rusted SVX for $1k and swap it's heart over, sell everything left for parts, and you might come out ahead with extra cash plus the bigger engine. Or, why not just run some ej22 heads on the ej25 lego engine and call it a day? Power would be respectable for a daily driver. Sell off all your bits and pieces or try trading them for some good ej22 heads. I'm normally the last person to give anti-turbo advice, but unless you have a full-running turbo donor, I think sticking to NA or a flat 6 will be a better choice. Edited March 9, 2016 by Bushwick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdventureSubaru Posted March 9, 2016 Share Posted March 9, 2016 Shoot - if you have a good EJ25 block, just put your existing heads on that block and drive. No need to get complicated. You'd only spend the cost of gaskets and head resurfacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 2001 Forester is Phase II where as the EJ22 heads would be phase I, so that's out. Phase II 2.2L heads are single port versions of the exact same head I have.. EZ30 I have thought about, but every bit of wiring has to be changed, and then rigged/ tricked because the EZ30 never came with a 5spd in the US. The caveat to all this is, for NY we cannot have a CEL on for inspection purposes, so that means using the original ECU or a WRX/ USDM OEM Turbo swap.... I'm just assuming here, that when we are done with the WRX, I should have most of everything needed as spare take off parts, minus the turbo if that's really bad. But TD04's are not expensive to buy new... I know things like the oil and coolant lines, and the special coolant reserviore are things I'd need to make/ buy but, it might actually be worth it depending on how much don't need to buy ( for this car ).. Especially if I could get the engine and engine management to handle 10 PSI, because that would be a worthy boost.. I know I would need the STI block to go to 10 PSI... I'm just thinking at this point but I am a hotrodder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) Shoot - if you have a good EJ25 block, just put your existing heads on that block and drive. No need to get complicated. You'd only spend the cost of gaskets and head resurfacing. that is ultimatly my cheapest option to go and be back up and running Edited March 9, 2016 by matt167 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) dbl post Edited March 9, 2016 by matt167 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Does the knock go away once it's warmed up? Those blocks are known for being clunky due to piston slap. Generally quits after the engine gets warm. Doesn't hurt anything, just an annoyance. I wouldn't trust a 25D that had bad head gaskets. Rod bearings are small and they'll be eaten up if that engine overheated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt167 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 Yup. Once its warm its dead quiet, except a rumble in the bottom end that I noticed after doing the timing belt.. Its had the piston slap since I've had it. That's not what worries me.. I know its got at least 50k miles in the engine but to me if the clutch went, it would not be worth putting it back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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