Sube Buggy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 excellent thanks fairtax i go out and see what it is and get back to you. not sure why but even though small car made these for the ej22 for vanagons it has 5 pulses instead of four not entirely sure why but could that make a huge difference? ill need to solder and extend my obd2 connector since its behind me in a mounted tool box. then i can just compare the speed on my phone and the speed on my scanner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 You're using a Subaru ECU right? And it's from a 95, correct? I can't seem to get smallcar.com to open. What product you using from small car? If it's giving a 5 pulse speed signal to the ECU that could be causing a problem since the speed reading would be off by 25%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 sometimes i have a hard time opening there page up, but its a hall effect sensor heres the link https://smallcar.com/vanagon/subaru-vanagon-conversion-parts/hall-effect-speed-sensor-kit.html its not working for me either it seems the server stalls out heres a picture. as for the fuel its off a 89 area f150 inline fuel pump i bought it new at summit racing awhile ago so ill have to look for the exact name. alot of people said it worked for their swap but also people mentioned Bosch too. 35psi @ idle = 29~30psi 42-45 w/o vacuum = 39~40psi 35psi @ cruising = 30ish psi 42-45 psi under acceleration = 39~40 psi does the computer need the input from the sensor for the scan tool data or not? because it seems semi accurate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Is that a speed sensor? Where is it installed? The ECU does use vehicle speed for certain things. How far off is it? Fuel pressure seems a little low but its consistent. Could just be an in actuate guage. Aftermarket pumps aren't the greatest but that ones for a larger engine it should be able to provide enough fuel for the 2.2. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 that's what I was thinking I might just get new coil pack and wires they seem old and it wouldn't hurt. yeah its a hall effect sensor it goes on the cv mounting bolts by the transmission and spins over the little magnetic pick up there's 5 little metal tabs going around the ring. I might look into getting a new fuel pump one that a lot of more experienced people recommend. I just don't know why its constant but low. I was also thinking about getting some sea foam to see if it helps any since the motor has 164K and the previous owner probably didn't care since I got the car from a really really and did I mention really crappy auto place in the inner city. not sure how far it is off cause the cord is not long enough to compare ill made the obd port longer so I can see but also does the ecu use speed sensor data or other inputs to determine the speed on the scanner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Yeah vehicle speed on your scanner is the same what the ECU sees. If the plugs and wires are old those should have been the first thing. The old 2.2s need copper plugs. None of that fancy platinum stuff. NGK V-powers work great. Don't cheap out on wires. They need good wires or you'll get misfires. NGK wires are best if you can get them. I've used Carquest and Napa house brand wires in the past and had good luck with those. I have a set of Denso plugs and wires on my 96 right now waiting to see how well they hold up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) okay then the speed/ hall effect sensor must be working since it has a vehicle speed ! and yeah i figured i should but i was being cheap and figured since i drove it on the highway home for 45 minutes not to worry about it at least at the time. looks like ill just go all out and get the ngk v-powers also whats a good coil pack you had luck with? and are autolite spark plugs okay because i just bought some a week or two ago the gap and everything is okay, or should those be more specific too? also on a bigger screen i saw the fuel pressure never made it above 40psi even on hard acceleration it was generally in the 36~37 psi area Edited April 30, 2016 by Sube Buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 im curious then is the fpr not getting enough vacuum to operate at the specific fuel pressure or whats the deal with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 Don't worry about the coil pack. They almost never go bad. If you're gonna get one get a used Diamond pack. Aftermarket coils are junk IMO. I don't like auto lite plugs. Never have had good luck with them. NGK V-power are like $2.49 each and always work. FPR has vacuum on it at idle and it lowers the fuel pressure. As throttle opens vacuum drops and the FPR closes and fuel pressure goes up. If fuel pressure isn't staying up around 45 psi even under heavy throttle the pump may not be supplying enough pressure. 35 is too low for full throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) okay cool i wont worry about a coil pack for now ill get the new plugs and wires see how that goes. i might try to test the fpr but its weird that its the fuel pump for a f150 isn't enough maybe because its an older model truck the pressure might not be as high?? looks like ill be looking for a new external pump too also the ngk v powers are gapped at .044 and the recommended gap should be .039- .043 i should be fine with that right. some say a touch bit of a wider gap isn't all that bad. Edited May 1, 2016 by Sube Buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 umm, beg to differ just a little on the coil pack - the one on my 95 Lego went bad - but was pretty obvious, even in daylight, it was arcing pretty good. the good news is that any coil pack from 90 - 95 will work just fine - I pulled the known good one off of my retired 90 Lego and havent had a problem since. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) what were your symptoms? bad idle, hesitation, misfires? for the wires these look appropriate? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spark-Plug-Wire-Set-NGK-8004-fits-95-96-Subaru-Legacy-2-2L-H4-/301658824881 just want some input to make sure they're actually pretty decent. Edited May 1, 2016 by Sube Buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) all of the above, mostly when damp out, but it started happening all the time just before I figured out what it was. also had a cheap, parts store brand plug wire go bad and start arcing on a 3 hour drive once, same symptoms. managed to get off the freeway and checked things out, saw it arcing. wrapped it with electrical tape to get home with it (was not a fun trip) I also HIGHLY recommend the NGK wires, and NGK V-power plugs. I wont run anything else in an older Subaru yeah, those in the link would be the right ones, but you should be able to get them cheaper than that - seems to me I paid around $45 for mine Edited May 1, 2016 by heartless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 http://www.partsgeek.com/tdkj1jx-subaru-legacy-spark-plug-wire-set.html?utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=hcs&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=Subaru+Spark+Plug+Wire+Set http://www.amazon.com/NGK-FX41-Premium-Wire-Set/dp/B000C5O1N0 http://www.rockauto.com/?mfr=NGK&partnum=8004 personally, I would go with Rockauto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 cool thanks for the links! i was hoping the amazon one had prime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Rock auto is worth bookmarking. excellent prices on name brands. and they have warehouses all over the country so shipping is usually very reasonable and they send magnets too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) right on! should i think about investing in a surge tank? i keep my gas above 1/2 full should i go with a walbro 255 or bosch 044 i hear they're good but thats for the 2.5 turbos and such not sure if itll be just as good for my little ej22. Edited May 1, 2016 by Sube Buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 3, 2016 Author Share Posted May 3, 2016 (edited) found a pdf file of my manual with everything in it fuel pressure with the vacuum port open on the fpr is 34-38 psi and with the hose back on the fpr it should be 26-30psi so its not my fuel system Edited May 4, 2016 by Sube Buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 4, 2016 Share Posted May 4, 2016 There's a small filter before the pump? What kind? How small? I would bypass the first filter and see what you get for pressure without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 (edited) it looks like this but the manual for it says 26-30 psi for idle and 34-38 for acceleration. its looks like the info is from mitchell or alldata Edited May 4, 2016 by Sube Buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 my fuel trim stays in open loop is there a reason? the o2 monitor never completes i dont have the second o2 sensor installed in the exhuast but it is plugged in. it wouldnt be a problem, is that a cause or could it be the maf sensor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Yeah I suppose it could be stuck in open loop if the second sensor just isn't getting hot enough to create a voltage signal. Pretty sure other people have not had any problems cutting out the second sensor. I would still try it without the first fuel filter. Those little lawnmower filters don't have high flow rates. Worth a shot and doesn't cost anything to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 i have to agree with fairtax - pull that filter out and see how it goes. just get a simple hose barb of the correct size to put in place temporarily - those little filters can be quite restrictive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 Ill try that when i get and report back home thanks guys. ill try and get some picture of the live data if it would help any. there is some little pieces of junk in the so i definitely want a filter before the pump so should i just get a second stock black filter? Also i don't know why my car wont throw any codes at all? i know there is codes there's no abs, the second o2 sensor was unplugged it should throw a misfire code or something when it sputters like it does. Some times the engine acts like its gonna die when it warms up and is idling but never dies it just kicks back to about 800 rpm. Its a Pain in my arse trying to figure out this problem with no codes, at least if i had codes i would have something to go off of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sube Buggy Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 (edited) okay i removed the filter and it didn't really make a difference i'm surprised the inlet on those are pretty small. Any who i finally got some codes!! never thought id be happy about it they are as follows in order listed on the tool. p0500: Vehicle Speed Sensor Malfunction (its not reading speed anymore????) p0133: (Has not appeared after reseting ecu, also unsure how old the first o2 sensor is) Oxygen Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1, Sensor 1) p0443: evap canister (don't care) p1702: Auto Trans Diagnosis Input Signal Circuit / wtf is this one?? i've been reading and it seems semi related to my bogging issue and speed sensor issue since maybe the ecu thinks the cars in neutral and not under load? hence the speed sensor not working or showing any speed? I did test the speed sensor it has 12v hooked to ignition and is grounded also has 4.73 ish volts when the ignition is turned on. unfortunately i don't have a scope to see the digital output.. Edited May 9, 2016 by Sube Buggy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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