May 20, 20169 yr Should the oil pump on a 95 2.2 a gasket, or should I put a thin layer of sealer in it, or nothing?
May 20, 20169 yr According to the factory, you should use a gasket sealer goop. Search for best type or wait for other replies. However, when I did the oil pump on my 97 2.2 engine, I went to advanced auto and got one of their thin, paper like gaskets because I was afraid of getting some of the goop in the oil circulation system. It worked fine.
May 20, 20169 yr You don't use a gasket on the oil pump, just sealant. Your choice, I use anaerobic. O.
May 20, 20169 yr Anaerobic sealant. no gasket. http://beergarage.com/SubyOPump.aspx Edited May 20, 20169 yr by Fairtax4me
May 21, 20169 yr In addition to what they said There's an oring. Id tighten the backing plate screws too. The 95 oil pump is same as all the others. Get a free FSM they're readily available all over the Internet. I've got like 10 or 15, excellent resources.
May 21, 20169 yr Anaerobic is the ONLY sealant you should be using on an oil pump. It's designed for extremely flat surfaces w/o gaps. It'll seal in the absence of air (gasket surface only) but remain soft if it enters the oil. Unlike RTV which can/will break off and clog oil passages, anaerobic won't as it won't harden in open air. Yes, it costs $15 a tube, but it's a must, especially on rotor-style oil pumps. I used it on mine, and even installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge. On cold starts with 10w30, it's around 75-80 psi at idle. Once fully warm at idle, it's around 8-10 psi and I think reaches the 40-60 range when moving but I haven't been paying attention while moving to be honest. Anaerobic can be a PITA to break the seal on. If you end up having to pull the pump assembly again, and it's sticking like glue, put some propane pencil torch heat on it evenly, then tap it or carefully pry, it'll pull right apart.
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now