You can swap away regardless of EGR.

 

An EGR vehicle with a nonEGR engine runs perfect. There's a very simple work around written up on this forum on how to get rid of the CEL. It's easy, just moving vacuum lines. Cake.

 

Or just ignore the light. I used to remove EGRs for fewer parts and simplicity and ignored the light.

 

As to which vehicles have which. In 1995 auto EJ22s always have EGR and manuals do not. That distinction I think usually holds in later years too but there are rare exceptions. 1996+ I prefer to visually verify, I would not rely 100% on model and year alone to determine EGR or not on those.

 

Although with that work around it's so simple it doesn't much matter which you get.

Thanks Grossgary! Didn't see your response there. I think the previous shop disabled my CEL light, so I'll probably just run it as is. Happy to have a non-interference! 

 

You guys ever see rusty intake valves? I noticed this when I popped the intake manifold today. One in particular looked pretty nasty. Cleaned it up a little with a paper towel taped to a screwdriver. Engine turns nice and smooth, compression feels good.

 

 

 

Got the new motor mounted up. Torque converter stayed put it seems. Gonna get at the timing components and front end stuff tomorrow. 

Edited April 25, 20178 yr by ztrain727

Had that on a couple over the years. I think it's just surface rust from sitting. I hit them with some carb cleaner and swabbed them a bit. Ran fine.

Yeah did my best to clean it up. Turns smooth so I'm not worried. 

 

Can anyone help with these connectors? Having trouble finding the cam/crank sensor plugs. '93 engine, '97 intake manifold. 

 

 

 

 

 

Also this little white plug next to the throttle body is shaped a bit different on the '93 so they don't connect. Should I splice them? 

 

Edited April 26, 20178 yr by ztrain727

I would just swap your sensors over rather than splice. Cam, crank and the last one should be your knock sensor. Just put everything over from the 97 to keep it clean.

 

10mm bolts for cam and crank sensors. 12mm for the knock.

Awesome! That was the plan for today, but I'm still confused about where they plug in to the rest of the wiring harness. In front or behind intake manifold/driver or passenger? I'll figure it out...

Got most everything hooked up minus the air intake, front accessories (ac - alt - ps)

 

Engine cranks but won't fire. Here's a video:

 

It sounds like duh DUH duh DUH duh DUH if that makes sense. I'm a little suspicious I botched the timing because cranking it by hand spat out the bags plugging the exhaust headers on only one side. But I lined up the timing marks and double counted the teeth!

 

I've done it before, but re-using a marked belt not a new one, so I was a little confused that the belt marks are on the notch, whereas the cam marks are on the groove. Still, counted it at 44 and 40.5

Get the full intake on there. That hose to the IACV and the lack of a mass air flow are a start.

Haha start with the obvious. Will do. Gonna be out of town for a while for work, but I'll get it running when I return

UPDATE:

 

I'm back in town after extensive travels, so headed down to the ole subie...

 

After a few hours of troubleshooting, it turns out I mixed up the cam pulleys. They are marked L and R, L=driver, R=passenger, if anyone references this in the future. The L cam pulley has notches on the back for the cam position sensor which makes them easy to distinguish.

 

It now fires up. Running a little rough though. Once I top the coolant off I'll run it for a while and see if it evens out. Maybe the HLA lifters or rusty valves...

Edited June 1, 20178 yr by ztrain727

This was mentioned earlier regarding an EJ22 swap:

 

yup. And you can swap between the two.

 

An EGR intake manifold on a non egr motor works fine but will throw a check engine light by itself. Splice the EGR tube to the IACV hose and no check engine light.

 

Can someone show me photos or a schematic of how and where this splice can be done?

 

Thanks!