Okay so here it goes...

 

First time replacing brakes, and I got all the hardware on my rear drums successfully, but didn't install the drums (they were getting resurfaced)

Went to the front, and got the new rotor and pads on, but could not for the life of me get that dam piston to depress. I even bought a compress tool for brakes and it just bent it. So since I couldn't get anything to fit, I took off all the new stuff and put back on the old rotor and pads...

Now is where it gets stupid...

I went to push in the brakes (can't remember what my logic was) and now my rear cylinders are pushed so far out they have pushed off the rubber caps. What the heck did I just do? And how do I correct it?

The front caliper pistons DO NOT compress.  They must be "screwed" in.  Hopefully, the tool took the damage.

 

The rears, you have to push the pistons back in, make sure they didn't pop all the way out.  Re install the dust caps.  They should push in by hand or with only a little help.

UGH I can't believe that I've been trying to compress that stupid thing this whole time! I just assumed the front calipers were the same as every other front caliper on other cars, yeah I'm pretty sure the toilets at the damage it bent it but oh well… Do I need any special tool in order to screw it in?

I took a 1" square steel tube, and cut notches in one end that fit the piston depression.  The other end, I slide a big bolt in, to make a crude pivot bearing.  With the caliper flipped to the open position, apply pressure to the tube [about 12 " long] and turn with a wrench.  Sometimes I've held the bolt end with one hand, or get in a position to lean on my hand with my chest.  It's not about forcing it to compress, it's to keep the tool engaged.  The piston turns in pretty slow, so bracing takes less effort.

There's a square tool sold at auto parts stores.

 

You can make a tool and even turn them in with pliers and wrenches but it's slow going and grueling if you're not accustomed to it or ready for It.

 

Rear drums I'm unsure. You can simply reset caliper pistons as he said so I assume maybe you can do that with drum cylinders too. If it comes out it's gotta go back in that way too. Ideally you'd clean it all up first but obviously it's nicer to not open it up if possible.

Here's the small tool for screwing the piston back in. Attaches to 3/8" drive

 

http://i.imgur.com/JiBmyuC.jpg

Update: so I got the square tool, pulled out the old stuff off again, put the new stuff back on again, turned in the piston in just a few minutes, and now everything is all back together. As for my rear brakes, I broke off a bleeder screw on one trying to get it loose because of all the stupid rust. And I think the other cylinder is faulty anyways because it seems to be leaking, so I ordered new cylinders and they should be here on Thursday.

Excellent. Yeah, those bleeder do that. Lots of anti seize compound, and the rubber cap helps for next time.

Excellent. Yeah, those bleeder do that. Lots of anti seize compound, and the rubber cap helps for next time.

Thanks for your help Dave! Also thanks to Trident and grossgary for their help as well! Yeah it looks like my little rubber caps fell off along time ago, and I'm sure that contributed to any clogging that has likely happened as well.

 

Anything special I should know about replacing the cylinders? Looks to me like I just pull the bolts off, pull the metal line off, pull out the cylinder, put in the new, and then torque up the bolts. And then of course bleed the system.

The mounting bolts might snap off.

Anti seize the new ones.

 

If you haven't used antisieze before, be aware that it lubes the bolts, and be careful of over toqueing.

 

You're welcome.