I've pulled some parts previously covered with the standard parts store silver can of Permatex anti-seize and have seen it dried up and not overly impressive.  Normally it's fine and i've never had an issue exactly but it seems worth asking?

 

What are you guys using that you think is better than Permatex?

I've been using that. They also have a copper version now, I have been using. Not long enough to have long term idea yet. I've also used synthetic wheel bearing grease / GL2 and that stays around for a long time too.

I recall a 2003 ball joint specifically that was stuck and corroded after only a year or three.  it came out but i've been surprised a couple other times too so i thought i'd ask since it's time to buy a new jar.

 

maybe it's just more of an issue with existing rust/scaling/exposure than the antiseize. 

Loctite makes one and I've used bostik marine grade (seem's to work very well.) The copper has been around for years and i have never noticed any difference.

Great, thanks I have some marine grade sealants and greases for my boat, i'll see if I have anything like this as well. 

You've used the marine grade on cars?

I'll try marine grade on ball joints and other problem areas and stick with permatex standard stuff for simpler things. 

Yes, I brought the bostik home from a job on the columbia river , oh maybe 8 years ago. It is my go to antisieze . I just looked around the shop ... there are 6 open cans of A.S. and the one i use most is the marine grade.

The permatex is good stuff. There are different grade for different uses. One place I worked at we used a nickel based Permatex antisieze instead of the basic copper based. It was much better working in the high heat environment of an Aluminum remelt furnace.

The silver stuff in the little tube is zinc oxide and is specifically made for an aluminum/iron interface, such as spark plugs.  It is the best stuff for spark plugs IF the plugs aren't already plated with an anti-seize.  For an iron/iron interface, grease fortified with molydium disufide (MOS2 or Moly) is the best.  This would be for the hub/brake rotor and hub/wheel interface.  The copper anti-seize is best for use on stainless steel but can also be used for spark plugs.

 

Just because it dries up does not mean it isn't working.

Right. It's more the sticking together id rather not have than the drying up. Ball joints (I assume that's steel on steel?) and rotors on hubs have stuck good after a short amount of time.

 

Is this a rust belt thing or happens elsewhere too?

 

Granted it's only been like 3 times (which is not not much, I work on far more than just my own), but rust being what it is and that seeming abnormal and I just ran out of antiseize, wanted to ask.

It's probably only ball joints and maybe axle shaft splines I really care about. Since those can be rust belt monsters.

 

Maybe a few 10mm bolts that always shear off - rad fan, washer tank, fender and other gold down bolts that get a little rust and sheer off all the time. I don't even know how many times I've seen that happen. They shear off all the time. But they're simple to work around so not a big deal particularly if it's my car I don't care about a missing bolt or four.

Probably weather related. I got a car from California 2 years ago. Just replaced a ball joint a week or 2 ago. Everything just unscrewed and dissasembled. 23 year old car and the bolt still have the yellow zinc anodize on them. All coated with anti seize now, of course.

Exactly! My last three XT6's (1988 and 1989's) come from CA, Texas and the south. That's on purpose. Original exhausts and every bolt comes off easy. It's crazy.

Edited January 3, 20179 yr by grossgary

Yeah, it had its original exhaust also. I put my all stainless one on it. It weighs less and easier to move if needed for other work.