Looking for the best procedure for doing valve adjustment with engine in car on 2005 Impreza. Looks and sounds like head gaskets were done without doing proper valve adjustment.

 

 

Edited February 14, 20179 yr by steve56

pull valve covers and insert gauge.  

 

FSM's are free all over the internet.  find out what years are the same (for legacy it would be any 2005-2009 legacy/outback) and you can use any of those FSM valve adustment procedures for that vehicle. 

 

If your 2005 impreza is like 05-09 legacy/outbacks then you can use any of those. 

if the 2005 impreza engine is like 00-04 legacy/outbacks then you can use any of those as well.  

pull valve covers and insert gauge.  

 

FSM's are free all over the internet.  find out what years are the same (for legacy it would be any 2005-2009 legacy/outback) and you can use any of those FSM valve adustment procedures for that vehicle. 

 

If your 2005 impreza is like 05-09 legacy/outbacks then you can use any of those. 

if the 2005 impreza engine is like 00-04 legacy/outbacks then you can use any of those as well.  

I meant to say best procdure due to space constraints. Is it easier to do with motor mount bolts off and enginge lifted on floor jack. Or is it no big deal to do as engine sits normally.

Depending on tools, ability, and if you have gorilla hands, you should be fine doing them insitu. It is constrained bending the gauge, depending what kind you have, to check but it's doable. My feeler gauges I just curve into tight spots. They incur some permanent waves from the process but that doesn't bother me.

 

If you have to remove the lower 14mm engine a bit and jack the engine up two inches for clearance that only takes a matter of seconds. Don't overextend rad hoses.

 

Removing the valve covers themselves helps. You could stick your hands down along the valve covers before you start to get a sense of how little room you're working with.

Edited February 14, 20179 yr by grossgary

Depending on tools, ability, and if you have gorilla hands, you should be fine doing them insitu. It is constrained bending the gauge, depending what kind you have, to check but it's doable. My feeler gauges I just curve into tight spots. They incur some permanent waves from the process but that doesn't bother me.

 

If you have to remove the lower 14mm engine a bit and jack the engine up two inches for clearance that only takes a matter of seconds. Don't overextend rad hoses.

 

Removing the valve covers themselves helps. You could stick your hands down along the valve covers before you start to get a sense of how little room you're working with.

Got valve cover off. Have the drivers side cam timing mark at 6pm. That should have all the valves closed.The subframe is in the way of adjusting the exhaust valves. I will be be jacking up engine tomorrrow.

did you take the pitch stop loose too? I have read of folks using ratchet straps or similar to pull the engine left or right a inch or so - but that may stress hoses too much?

Valves have to be adjusted using the TDC arrows, not timing marks.

Arrow should be at 6 o'clock when adjusting clearance on number 4.

 

If you use the belt timing marks, the cam is 45° off when you make the adjustment.

Valves have to be adjusted using the TDC arrows, not timing marks.

Arrow should be at 6 o'clock when adjusting clearance on number 4.

 

If you use the belt timing marks, the cam is 45° off when you make the adjustment.

I was using a Youtube video from South Main Auto as a guide. I just posted the link with my original question. At 20 mins. into the video, Eric O is adjusting the valves. His premise seems to be that any where on the cams that the valves are closed is a good place to set the lash. Is that inncorrect? Also posted a pic of TDC for the four drivers side cam position from FSM.

Edited February 14, 20179 yr by steve56