Hello, I own a 1995 Subaru Impreza that had been rear ended quite awhile ago.  Ever since then, the gas gauge has been faulty, never reaching full and going below E with at least a quarter tank of gas left.  I realize that the gas sending unit probably needs replacing.  But occasionally, the car would not start, it would turn over, but not catch.  I would wait 15 minutes, then it would start right up.  The plugs and wires were changed, timing belt and water pump changed, still would occasionally not start.  So I replaced the coil.  Now the car starts terribly.  I cannot touch the gas pedal, it will start slowly then eventually chug then run ok.  It also does not seem to have any power until warmed up, aprox a few minutes.  At first I thought spark, then I'm thinking fuel is too much choking the engine.  Just not sure.  Could the gas sending unit cause this?  Please help, thanks

Sounds like you have a few unrelated issues.

 

Check to make sure you seated the wires on to the coil properly.

Yes I had unplugged and replugged a couple of times to rule that out.

Is it OBD2? Any codes stored?

I have not checked the codes because this 1995 was manufactured in early April and as far as I can tell, there is no place to hook up a computer to see the codes.

1995 was the transistion year for Subies to OBD2. Those w/the EJ22 AND 4EAT were supposedly OBD2 compliant in the Impreza (I'm 99% sure the Legacy was), but none of those w/the EJ18. (tangent: Ej22 wasn't avl. w/a 5-speed in '95.)

 

So there should be an OBD2 port by your left knee...might have a  little flip cover on it? I'll let you Google that for pics...limited @ work.

 

The fuel gauge issues are actually common for ALL Subies of that vintage.

 

I'd look into a fuel filter, vacuum line issues, cam and/or crank sensor, etc., too.

Edited February 15, 20179 yr by wtdash

Thank you, I do have the engine light on, it would go out after unhooking the battery but come back on after a while.  When my son had the subie, he had the belts come off, I discovered that the crank pulley/harmonizor was crooked, appears the key was mashed when pulley put back on after the repair shop put the new timing belt in.  The pulley was wobbling and belts fell off.  I replaced the pulley but did not replace the crank sensor.  I did try to pull it but it did not budge and I was afraid I would snap it off in the engine so I left it alone.  It more than likely needs replacing, but would it cause the issues I'm having?

It may be out of time on the crankshaft keyway. You should replace the sprocket, key, and balancer.

 

Crank sensor is probably seized into the oil pump. You'll probably have to remove the pump to deal with that.

 

95 does have OBD-II. You can use the normal 96+ scan tool. If you have codes you need to start there.

 

GD

Edited February 15, 20179 yr by GeneralDisorder

Thank you,  I had only replaced the key and balancer and checked to make sure it did not move at least every 3-4 weeks.  The keyway on the shaft was reamed a bit, but I was able to get the key and balancer on snugly.  I did  not realize this would affect the timing as it only connected to the belts for alternator and a/c unit?

Might be a bad ECT sensor. The two wire ECT sensor for the computer.

 

Crank pulley doesn't affect timing but the sheared key could allow the timing sprocket to shift. Probably not the problem though as long as you got the crank bolt tightens back to around 140ft lbs.

Yes, and recheck it to make sure it is still tight to spec.  What is weird is that sometimes I have to put the pedal to the floor and hold it there when starting until it catches and immediately back off the pedal as soon as it starts, almost like it is flooded.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

Definitely check those codes. Check engine always goes off when you disconnect that battery. The code will most definitely give you a much better idea of what is going on.

finally after installing the knock sensor, I was able to drive down to local auto zone to have the ODBll scan done.  It turns out that the coolant temperature sensor was bad giving me the engine light.  I replaced the sensor and drove it 15 miles, no problems.  On the way back from work, I noticed the temp gauge go from below mid to the highest range in seconds, I pulled over, and checked the radiator res, it was ok, the took a towel and opened the radiator cap, radiator was full.  I started the car back up, no issues starting, the engine light was off, no other warning lights on.  The temp gauge rested on slightly over 3/4 the rest of the way home.  I removed the sensor and returned it back to the store and swapped for another.  I installed it and and test drove the car aprox 4 miles, the temp gauge went up to the highest point and then lowered to over 3/4.  There are no radiator leaks, car runs fine, and starts up fine, no check engine light.  Am I doing something wrong?  Will the temp settle back after awhile?

Which of the CTS are you replacing? There are likely two. one is a single blade connector for the gauge; the other has an actual plastic plug w/a clip for the ECU.

 

Td

Edited February 24, 20179 yr by wtdash

The one behind the engine under the manifold, has a plastic covered plug 2 blades,  SU4258 Duralast part number

What kind of thermostat is in it? Can't cheap out on those because they'll cause symptoms just like that.

Same original thermostat in car, never changed, never had problem with it.

After letting the car sit for a couple of days, I checked the radiator fluid level, it was way down.  May have been an air lock or something that finally settled out.  After filling the radiator, then the reservoir, I started the car, (started right up), I let it idle for 15 min constantly checking the temp gauge, it went to just under a half, and stayed there, so I took it for 5 mile ride at 45 mph and the gauge needle never moved.  The engine light has not come back on, the car starts right up, and seems to run better.  I will check the miles per gallon on the next 2 fill ups to see if that also improves.

 

I thank all of you on this message board for you support.  Who would have thought a $23 part would cause so much issues.