Bushwick Posted May 18, 2017 Share Posted May 18, 2017 Ugh, had a failed rear driver strut spring perch, which seemed straight-forward enough. Rim would not leave the hub though, so had a shop knock it off. Well, a huge chunk of the rear inner fender is gone now..... basically everything the upper strut attached to is literally...... gone. Never seen anything like that happen before. Anyhow, the trans (4eat) and engine (ej22) are still strong (just had fresh oil change) and car was driven daily, all 4 tires (steel rim) are great with maybe 90% tread left. Have new rear rotors and pads (uninstalled still in boxes), timing belt was done roughly 20k miles ago, and all fluids rear/trans were done at that time; engine is quiet, no smoke, and just e-checked in April. Valve covers were new 20k miles ago but are leaky as I didn't use rtv on them; 190k with exterior rust, fair interior (scratches everywhere inside/out) and I think I did the fuel pump about 10k miles ago. I'll let the whole thing go to a forum member (will need trailered unless you live close) if you promise to give the engine/trans a good home for $450. Don't have the heart to junk it given the engine is desirable for retrofits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 (edited) Oh yeah, the front tie rods were replaced roughly 12k miles ago and battery was new in December 2016. As far as I'm aware, it hasn't exhibited torque bind. The physical failure at this time is popped the spot welds for upper rear strut mount driver's side. The rear crossmember was replaced when I got the car (the donor car apparently had a new one) and should still be good. AC works but belt was squeaking last time I ran it. PM me. Edited May 18, 2017 by Bushwick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share Posted May 18, 2017 For what it's worth, engine temp is always in the middle and the car can be run/tested (locally, like around the block kinda deal) to verify. Plugs, wires, air and fuel filters were all done around 15k miles ago. I also went through ALL the lifters around that time and either hand flushed or replaced collapsed ones, and they are still quiet. I also have a mechanical oil pressure gauge installed (copper line with full rubber vacuum line sleeve) so oil pressure can be verified from a cold or hot start. Think it idles in-gear around 10 psi fully hot, and 75-80 cold (haven't been paying attention lately). When the timing belt was off, I cleaned with lye and inspected the oil pump, and resealed with anaerobic. Really pissed it broke the strut mount and fender as I don't want to get rid of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Managed to have 1/4" plate sections welded in, along with some extra tube supports, to keep the strut tower centered, so it's back in service. Never thought I'd have a car where the wheels were almost ready to fall off, only to come back from the brink of auto yard death! FWIW, I suggest pulling the carpet up and removing the plastic to periodically inspect your rear towers. They put a rubberized sealant on from the factory, that holds it's form even after the metal is gone. If you catch it earlier than I caught mine, it's an easier fix And need to be safe too! My tower top was about 4" from the back 1/4 glass....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Holy smokes how in the world did you fix that?!?! There's so many folds and joints and layered bits it's not straight forward. I'd love to see pictures of that repair. Well done pulling that off. what does the other side look like? Have you had the rear brake lines and fuel lines rust out? That's really common. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 (edited) Had to get REALLY creative! 1/4" plate sections (pre-cut) roughly 6" x 8" maybe were butted up to each other, side-by-side. They connect on floor, and attach at upper strut tower sides where there was still all the metal. For extra ruggedness, given the body metal is super thin, I pulled the headliner down over the rear area, and ran a 1/8" 2 x 12" strip, attached at the top of the roof support on the edges (factory support where roof meets the edge above rear 1/4 glass. Then ran a tube off the strut and connected other end to that plate, off of one of the 1/4" plates, to relieve some of the stress of the tower going over bumps, so it has no way of moving "up" and possibly breaking welds on the thin body metal. From the outside, thinking of pop riveting thin gauge over the opening (inner fender well behind spring) and rtv the thing beforehand and primer it, to keep water and fumes out. To get the tower back down btw, used a cable ratchet with rear off the ground. Wasn't pretty, but it worked. At some point, going to run another vertical brace on other tower, then tie both sides together. Should help the other side stay straight and reduce stress on the bad side even further. Windows are blacked out in the back, so not like anyone will ever see it. It looks hideous, so no pics. Brake lines were replaced couple years back. Fuel return was replaced as well. Other side is still OK. Guessing it rusted on a seam, and spread from there. Edited June 25, 2017 by Bushwick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Nice working fabricating that. I see, so you got it structurally sound first but not entirely sealed? That makes sense. Trying to make that structural part perfectly conformed, aligned and sealed was what I wasn't getting. Makes sense to do it in two sections. Structurally secure it first. Then seal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sirtokesalot Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 id still like to see a picture of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 It's pretty fugly. Wasn't much left to work with and can only do so much with an arc welder and thin metal. Noticed the passenger side is starting to rot as well. Maybe a pic once that side is vertically braced and both sides are tied (think of an "H" bracing). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bushwick Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Nice working fabricating that. I see, so you got it structurally sound first but not entirely sealed? That makes sense. Trying to make that structural part perfectly conformed, aligned and sealed was what I wasn't getting. Makes sense to do it in two sections. Structurally secure it first. Then seal it. Yeah, if it was some rare model, I could see cutting a rear out of a donor and drilling out spot welds, and grafting that in, but not with this. It was originally an $850 winter car that lasted 4 years w/o fail. Drove daily after surgeries as it was an auto and easier to get in/out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 did the same to my 1996 Legacy. it spun out on friends at 75mph and mangled front and rear. It was mechanically sound so I put it back together - ugly as crazy, wrinkles and bends everywhere but still great life. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subaru Scott Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 One thing I can say about driving a wreck, and I've had quite a few, people stay out of your way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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