June 2, 20178 yr Author So, the valves weren't bent? Far as I can tell, it's ok, turns over smoothly, but I haven't done anything else to check, I will try a compression test. *keeping fingers crossed*
June 2, 20178 yr Author Both cam seals are on the front of engine behind timing belt and cam sprockets both sides. Orings are front drivers side and rear passengers side. The cam seal is not under that rear passenegers side cam cap - just the oring. On passengers side the seal is on the front and oring on the rear. Ok, I am maybe seeing the wrong generation of EJ 22 in this video then? I see it's SOHC Phase one, does that mean mine is a different generation? Because in Miles Fox's video he shows the passenger side crank seal being between firewall and backside of cylinder head. Here is the video, fast forward to 7:50: Hmmm I cannot seem to link the youtube video ... it's on Miles Fox's channel, under "Subaru EJ22 Cam Seals (All EJ SOHC)" Edited June 2, 20178 yr by FlyB0y
June 2, 20178 yr Author Ok, sorry about my confusion, got it figured out! Just the o-ring is on the back, and the main cam seal is on the front! I am getting REALLY good at putting that hydraulic tensoner in and out lol!! I am really excited to get the car back on the road!
June 2, 20178 yr Author when you compress the tensioner, are you doing it over several minutes? Yes, when I first got it, I did the 3x over several minutes to purge the air, now I am just bolting it on with the pin in-place, haven't needed to release it yet. I have the time, so I am being super cautious and taking my time, making sure I tripple check things so I don't have to do this stuff again anytime soon!
June 2, 20178 yr I just ask because you really need to find out if you have bent valves before you go replacing seals etc. on heads you may be swapping out anyway ????
June 3, 20178 yr Author I just ask because you really need to find out if you have bent valves before you go replacing seals etc. on heads you may be swapping out anyway Yep! I understand, got everything back together! Just filling the coolant (need to get more ... only ordered 1 Gal for some reason doh! LOL!!)
June 3, 20178 yr Author Well, it runs .... really rough and won't idle . Back to the code reader I guess! Hope this doesn't mean I had some slight damage when the belt shredded after all!
June 3, 20178 yr Do you have a compression tester? That is the next step. Bent valves will not throw codes.
June 3, 20178 yr there may be a hose from the IACV to the intake tuning that is loose. easy to miss on some cars. Edited June 3, 20178 yr by 1 Lucky Texan
June 3, 20178 yr Author Do you have a compression tester? That is the next step. Bent valves will not throw codes. Yes, I will do that next, wish me luck! When it first fired up it backfired pretty fierce, hopefully I am just missing a hose or something else simple. there may be a hose from the IACV to the intake tuning that is loose. easy to miss on some cars. IACV? Not sure what that is, but I did have the "air box" or what ever you call it coming off of the throttle body so I could see the torque converter to hold the crank still when tightening/loosening cam/crank bolts. I will double check it, but I am pretty sure I have all the hoses re-attached. Really hope it is just something that simple, or maybe the EGR valve that coded before. I have rented a better code machine this time around with an instruction booklet, and the bottom radiator hose decided to go bad (it had a new radiator put in recently, but it appears they didn't replace the hose?! lol!)
June 3, 20178 yr Trying to run the engine in the hopes that it will straighten out, or that you will find the problem that way, runs the risk of doing lots more damage. Bent valves are very likely to break off, destroying pistons, cylinder walls, etc!
June 3, 20178 yr Author @ Subaru Scott: I do, it's a cheap one, but it will at least give me an idea, here is what I have found so far, with the engine warm: 1 = 170 2 = 170 3 = 175 4 = 186 So far I am learning to use the newer scanner, but so far it is indicating possibly an 02 sensor, EGR and one other ... have to look at the directions.
June 3, 20178 yr Author I am not seeing how to clear the codes, but it's giving me the yellow light meaning "possible problems" with the following: CAT EVA EGR 02S
June 3, 20178 yr Author Ok, I went back to Autozone, and they said that the scanner wasn't showing any codes, just that those items had been tested, and it's showing everything clear. Where should I go next? I am putting in new spark-plugs, but I don't see anything wrong with the old ones, the look very clean (nice tan color, no indication of oil or a bad mixture) but that takes me back to the rough idle, I guess I might need to do a leak-down test still?
June 3, 20178 yr It had codes and now it doesn't? AutoOne checked the codes for you? Was the check engine light on when they checked the codes? How many have you driven it after clearing the check engine light? Run it until it has a code then read it immediately. A code scanner should show P0420 or four other numbers after the P. Bent valves would certainly make it idle poorly. Leak down or compression test. Check your timing marks. Make sure you used the correct timing marks - people often use the wrong mark on the crank sprocket. Dash not the dot.
June 4, 20178 yr Author w00t!! All it was, was an un-plugged hose!!! I just need to replace the bottom hose on the radiator, and I am done! It idles beautifully now with that hose plugged in!
June 4, 20178 yr Author Oh, and no CEL so far, we will see after I change the oil and take a trip on the freeway
June 4, 20178 yr No small miracle that it shredded timing belt teeth and didn't bend valves. Thank your lucky stars and buy a lottery ticket!
June 4, 20178 yr Author I know right?! AND I am pretty sure that WAS the original T-belt, since he was saying "I'm pretty sure that the T-belt got changed at some point, I mean, it COULDN'T have lasted 193,000 miles right? ...." LOL!!!!
June 4, 20178 yr Author There is ONE nagging little issue however, it got a new radiator about a year or 3 ago, and upon seeing a leak at the bottom, I got a new lower radiator hose, and then replaced the old clamps as it still leaked, and yet, there is a TINY seep around the bottom part of the bottom radiator hose, I have not over-tightened the thermostat this time (I had a second gasket fortunately) but oddly, when running, the area around the thermostat doesn't leak, but when you turn off the engine, it does for about 10 sec then it quits?! Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
June 4, 20178 yr Sounds like the water pump. Look up and see if it's coming from the weep hole in the bottom of the pump. You're going to get good at lining up timing belts.
June 4, 20178 yr Author Good point, I hope that doesn't mean I just didn't get the gasket on right ... (this was a struggle) as I just put a new one on lol! Looks like I am going to need to check that. Other than that, and the same oil leak in the rear of the engine I had before, no CEL! I took it for a ride close to home, double checked the oil filter, then went for a ride on the freeway, checking things a few more times, no problems other than the seep from the water pump area. Thanks again everyone for their help!
June 5, 20178 yr Author Well, surprisingly, the coolant leak issue has seemed to solve it's self! I guess enough sediment was left that it filled what ever void it was leaking from, either way, now I just need a new CV boot, and next month, a plug wire set.
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