Hey gang i just picked up an 84 gl wagon, and after a few minutes of warm up i have an ecs light, i read the codes from the ecu, are they in the fsm? If so i have the 1983 pdf, what page of 800+ would it be on?

Thanks

Depends on the Carb/FI setup.

 

If it's a feedback carb......I would just unplug the stupid ECU and Probably not doing squat anymore anyhow. 

 

But uh...ussually in the "emissions control" section of the FSM's.

 

Oh and if the green diagnostic connectors are hooked up (or the black read ones) you will get the light coming on.  Unplug them for normal driving

Edited September 21, 20178 yr by Gloyale

It shows codes 45, 33, 31, 34, 52, 42, 43, but runs great, the carb was replaced by a weber I'm assuming thats why so many codes, so i can unplug the ecs?

Yes, you don't need the ECU, the Weber simplifies everything, so you could even pull the ECU harness too if it's not entangled in the rest of the harness, but yes unplug it

Excellent unplugged ecu, no more light!

well months later i thought id update this, i had unplugged the ecu, and am running a Weber, and it started running worse and worse so a month or two later i remembered i unplugged the ecu , so i plugged it back in and she ran great again, apparently the disty needs it, undid the green test connectors no more light.

The ECU has no connection to the distributor. None whatsoever.

 

GD

Ok, then why on an ea81 with a Weber carb, would it run fine, unplug the ECU and it run like dogshit, acted like timing was off or bad cap/rotor, then plug ECU back in and it magically run great again?

The ECU has no connection to the distributor. None whatsoever.

 

GD

 

 

Well,not quite.

The ECU receives a RPM signal from the distributor.The wires connect at coil negative.

Hard to imagine how that would be significant here,but,one could remove the ECU wire from coil negative to see.

Ok, then why on an ea81 with a Weber carb, would it run fine, unplug the ECU and it run like dogshit, acted like timing was off or bad cap/rotor, then plug ECU back in and it magically run great again?

 

 

Probably because your choke heater is unpowered w/o the ECU.

Test it w/your meter.

You need to trigger the choke relay elsewise if you don`t want to use the ECU.

What I meant was that it has no effect on distributor operation. The tach signal is an output used by several devices like the ECU and FPCU. The distributor has no inputs that rely on the ECU.

 

Choke power could be ECU related depending on how the Weber was wired.

 

GD

Choke always worked, idle was always 500ish and rough as hell, motor bounced enough that it would touch the frame rails.

Edited March 4, 20188 yr by Norcalbratcap