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Technically no, but aftermarket parts listings usually list the same axle for left and right.

 

Pretty sure the only difference is the direction of the helical cut of the oil groove.

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Technically no, but aftermarket parts listings usually list the same axle for left and right.

 

Pretty sure the only difference is the direction of the helical cut of the oil groove.

 

Thought it might be that groove, thanks!

 

edit 1 Any ideas on how to separate it from the splines on the hub? I've got a rust free Virginia car, all the hardware came out easy as can be, but that shaft is frozen solid. Tried a puller with as much as I could turn it, even put the whole axle/knuckle in a press and gave it as much as I dared. I think the bearing was preventing it from seeing all the force.

 

edit 2

I found I could unbolt the bearing flange and slide the whole axle through the knuckle. I thought maybe putting the hub surface right on the press would bypass the bearing stealing some of the force, but still couldn't press the hub off the axle. 60,000 lb press and I went as far as I felt was safe and it wouldn't break free... that hub sure is seized on there!

Edited by destey

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You’re talking about pulling the splined axle out of the hub/knuckle? Yeah I’ve seen some that are crazy but that’s worse than I’ve seen.

 

I’ve wailed on them with a huge metal “hammer”, the type with large square head, and heavy, but that trashed the threads, have to grind the mushroom off the top or it won’t pull through and the threads are unsable aftewards so that doesn’t work.

 

Why are you replacing rear axles, what happened to them? Can you reboot them or just swap the inner joints so you don’t have to remove the entire axle?

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Yeah sometimes they get so stuck you just can't do anything with them. I've had luck in the past heating the hub to cherry red in the middle around the axle and hammering the axle out with a 5lb sledge. Have to thread the nut back on the end backwards to kinda prevent damage to the end of the axle so you can get it out of the hub.

Two rear bearing jobs I had to do that since the bearings were press-in type. I replaced the hubs on those as well.

 

Replaced them on my 96 a while back and they popped out with almost no trouble.

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Thought it might be that groove, thanks!

 

edit 1 Any ideas on how to separate it from the splines on the hub? I've got a rust free Virginia car, all the hardware came out easy as can be, but that shaft is frozen solid. Tried a puller with as much as I could turn it, even put the whole axle/knuckle in a press and gave it as much as I dared. I think the bearing was preventing it from seeing all the force.

 

edit 2

I found I could unbolt the bearing flange and slide the whole axle through the knuckle. I thought maybe putting the hub surface right on the press would bypass the bearing stealing some of the force, but still couldn't press the hub off the axle. 60,000 lb press and I went as far as I felt was safe and it wouldn't break free... that hub sure is seized on there!

I used a 3 leg bearing or pulley puller came right out after dropping the rear diff and an impact is about the only thing that would torque it enough Edited by Subieguy165

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When i bought used ones from scrapyard they allways ask me side i need but aftermarket ones seems same . but they so shitty quality that i would never get them.used ones all the way.

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