So I'm toying with the idea of getting rid of my D/R 5 speed and using an EJ 5 speed with a welded diff and then adding a transfer case.

 

I'm already in the process of throwing my BRAT on a Toyota frame (I really don't care that you think it's ugly) so it would be getting a transfer case no matter what.
I feel like I would be gaining a better clutch, and also far more replacements if it ever craps the bed. 

I know i would be losing my ultra low gearing but I think a better range of replacements are worth the trade off, since these GL's are getting harder and harder to find.

Has anyone done this before? If so How well has it been working? I searched the site and have only found people asking questions kind of pertaining to this but not fully asking or even doing it.

Edited December 1, 20178 yr by sumoco

Why even keep the subaru driveline at that point? Just playing devil's advocate here, but the toyota was designed to be driven offroad and already has a driveline designed for it, why not use that?

I like Subaru engines. I know them pretty well at this point, and can fix just about anything that breaks on them. I also know Toyota's but have mainly worked on their suspension in the past. Figured I could blend both worlds

I can't find it right now, but I remember reading a thread where someone did a similar swap, they used an EG33 with an adapter to, i think, a toyota transmission. Since an ej22 and an eg33 have the same bellhousing, that would work.

Agree Toyota transmissions are much stronger and are the way to go if serious about / wanting  strength.

People here in NZ bolted on Toyota  Celica 5spds with  heavier timken bearings  / adaptor plates behind small block chev V8s   (superior , strong - nicer shifting than agricultural GM 4spds )

Edited December 3, 20178 yr by subnz

I'm not out to make boat loads of power. Basically just want something that looks rad, is functional, and is mostly subaru.

What engine are you using?

 

 

With either transmission, the transfer gears in the back of the transmission will be the weak link, as they're not designed to carry full power. The extra gearing of the transfer case and axles will help that, but if you're making more than EA power, that may be an issue.

 

If it's an EJ, those transfer gears are very easy to source, and even upgrade.

 

 

Here's a thread that might interest you. Subaru engine in a Toyota, not finished, but some good information:

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134618-smiley/

 

The important part, what he had to do to the Toyota frame to get the Subaru engine to sort of fit. This is an Early SOHC EJ22, the smallest EJ engine:

 

And that's after completely removing the transmission tunnel to raise the drivetrain up into the body as much as possible.

 

 

If I were building something like that, I would definitely use one of Bill's adapter bellhousings to use a Toyota transmission. Stronger, and without the front diff in the transmission, it won't require the engine/transmission to be nearly as far from the front diff. Which means better ground clearance and/or lower COG, depending how you build it.

 

 

Another thread that might interest you. Toyota Axles under a Brat. Not the whole frame...but still. Link to pictures in the last post. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/89301-82-brat-solid-axle-build-done/

Edited December 4, 20178 yr by Numbchux

4EAT with the front pinion and diff removed for weight savings.  Holes plugged.

 

Weld up the rear transfer no more hydraulic plates

 

Better gearing than a 5spd D/R from 2:1 torque converter compared to 1.59 D/R low

Ej22 with a 5 speed d/r currently. I know the welded center diff on an ej22 trans isn't the best but it's very available if and when it breaks. Plus I want real suspension. I've read through that thread a few times, he's using the Toyota body as well so I feel like it would be a little bit of a different fit?

Edited December 5, 20178 yr by sumoco

buy bill's adapter bellhousing and run the toyota 5spd/transfer combo. Lots stronger and more compact without the un-used front and center diffs taking up space.