Hopefully I can answer all the questions.

Coil is an ACCEL Super Stock 8140

Test Primary at 200 ohms on multi meter =1.2

Test Secondary at 20K ohms on multi meter = 9.14 (9,140)

Next

Battery ---key run position --- wire end at coil + to light --- to grd.  = LIGHT LIGHTS UP

       Battery ---key run position to  wire end at coil  to light   to coil (+) with all wires hooked up = NO LIGHT

Battery -key start position (cranking) - to solenoid  - to wire end at coil + to light - to grd. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP

       Battery ---key start position (cranking) to  wire end at coil --- to light ---  to coil (+) with all wires hooked up = NO LIGHT

Next

Checked wire from coil  +  to ignition module in distributor  =  Good     

Checked wire from ignition module in distributor to coil  -    =  Good

Distributor 

         Cardone 31-810 remanufactured

Thanks for all your help hopefully you can keep coming up with ideas to try

 

I have trouble following this.

I cannot tell where you have the leads.

 

If the light stays dark w/connected between coil - and battery - with the key on you have no power.

Battery ---key run position --- wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) to light --- to ground on engine.  = LIGHT LIGHTS UP

       Battery ---key run position --- to  wire end at coil +( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) to light  --- then to coil (+) terminal( with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT

Battery ---key start position (cranking) - to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) ---  to light - to ground on engine. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP

       Battery ---key start position (cranking) --- to solenoid --- to  wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil)--- to light ---  to coil (+)  terminal (with all wires hooked up to coil                    and dizzy) = NO LIGHT

 

The circuits that light up I am just saying that I have power all the way to the coil (+) terminal, starting and run position.

The coil seems to test out ok

When the the lead is hooked up to the positive terminal on coil there is no complete circiut so the light did not go on, not even when cranking. So I am thinking it must be the module in the dizzy.

 A new ignition module was dropped at my house today so if we can get the reluctor off without breaking something else we will put it in tonight.

Hope this helps

Jono - meter readings were posted earlier in #6 if there is something else that you would like me to test I will. I was using the  the light tester because that was what NARU had asked me to do.

Thanks for your input.

  I have learnt that is the danger in asking more than one opinion I have found, sorry.

 

There is a heap to read and consider to remotely diagnose, probably harder to assemble all the info you have put in also on your part, frustration not helping, kids losing faith in their teacher

I also have trouble reading your updated description.

 

I would remove the starter switch from the equation for the moment.

 

Hook up a toggle switch to supply battery pos to coil pos with one fused wire to do just one job - that being supply fused 12V battery pos to coil which in turn supplies power to your distributor with electronic ignition module. This would be your RUN position or IGN ON if it was a car ignition switch

 

Hook up a spring loaded type starter switch.

Take pos power for it direct from battery pos, through a fuse to starter switch to starter solenoid.

 

Nice fat earth lead from battery to engine block. If it was a car you would also have a nice lead between battery neg and body and probably another earth between block and body for good measure

STEP 1.

key in RUN  position  (better known as IGN ON) --- ign pos (+)wire at coil (+)  ( intended to connect at coil pos but is not yet in this test) 

 

to test light probe (+)

 

test light earth lead (-) --- to ground on engine.  

 

= GOT LIGHT. Yeehah !!

 

so this step looks OK. IGN ON (+) wire from starter switch is not connected to coil yet ?

 

 

 

 

Battery ---key run position --- wire at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil)    to light  --- then to coil (+) terminal( with all wires hooked up to coil and dizzy) = NO LIGHT

 

The blue is where I get confused what you did !! Just a suggestion if you can rewrite steps 2 onards as I have altered your now deemed step 1 ???

 

Battery ---key start position (cranking) - to solenoid --- to wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil) ---  to light - to ground on engine. = LIGHT LIGHTS UP

       Battery ---key start position (cranking) --- to solenoid --- to  wire end at coil + ( attached to the end of the wire not to the coil)--- to light ---  to coil (+)  terminal (with all wires hooked up to coil                    and dizzy) = NO LIGHT

 

The circuits that light up I am just saying that I have power all the way to the coil (+) terminal, starting and run position.

The coil seems to test out ok

When the the lead is hooked up to the positive terminal on coil there is no complete circiut so the light did not go on, not even when cranking. So I am thinking it must be the module in the dizzy.

 A new ignition module was dropped at my house today so if we can get the reluctor off without breaking something else we will put it in tonight.

Hope this helps

so first line this is test light connected to the wire that would normally be connected to the coil pos but is disconnected at the coil for test purposes?

Any chance you could draw the ignition wiring circuit on a piece of paper and take a photo and post it up pls ? Actually a few actual pix of the motor might help too.

Thank you all for your help. Tore the dizzy apart and put in a new module. Had spark right away, pumped the gas pedal twice and it started right up. I would love to post picture but I am not sure how I can do that on this site. Just so you guys know I understood every word I typed on this topic LOL ( Sorry for the poor description). This engine is suppose to be putting out over 100 HP and we are not there yet. So I will be picking your brains for awhile now if you will let me. Carburetor will be the next part to upgrade. We are running a single barrel chrysler bbs right now going into a ea82 intake. We would like to put a 318 2-barrel carb in but we hear more about the weber 32/36 carb. but we will have to save that for another day. Now that we are back up and running and snow on the way this week I will bring it into school and the kids will all get to drive it on the football field. We also have an EJ 251 engine to rebuild for the next airboat project.

Edited December 12, 20178 yr by CWAIS

Great stuff. Join the club in wasting time thus week to find it was the module the whole time!

 

I overhauled my fuel system components before swapping in a used module I had kicking about

Awesome you got it sorted !!

^{I`m sure I am not the only one that would like to see a photo or two of your airboat.}

 

 

WOW!

Nice machine.

Nice work.

Nice shop.

You are obviously having too much fun.

Thanks for the pics.Looking forward to seeing some more in the future

bringing back memories of Gentle Ben

 

the lads ought to be proud of their joint efforts. It looks great and very professional

 

spfi inlet manifold huh?

 

This is the final picture it took me a while to get it to send. Its pretty neat to see what kids can do when they have to work together to make things work. Hope you enjoyed the pictures.

Chuck

Damn straight that is a fantastic effort !! Very, very cool Chuck !