January 10, 20188 yr Author Plus if there's anybody out there with a 95 2.2 I would beg of them to get the Bosch noid light or GM or Ford they all fit into this injector harnesd, and then unplug your coil crank the motor over and see if that noid light flashes every compression stroke because mine does not flash at all until you let go of the key which I find extremely annoying because there's supposed to flash indicating that is giving a charge of fuel according to all of my experience with injection systems Edited January 10, 20188 yr by koolminx
January 10, 20188 yr Those two yellow wires with blue stripes are the switched power source for the ecu. Injectors are cylinder #1 = pin 2#2 = pin1#3 = pin 18#4 = pin 17 The wires are brown, light green, blue with white stripe, and blue respectively. You should be seeing 10-13 volts to these with the key on and engine off. The injector grounds are pins 71 and 72 black with yellow on the bottom right of the harness, so check those if you aren't getting voltage to the positive side pins. You stated that you are getting 12v to the ecu now after switching relays, you checked the ground at the ecu as well correct? pins 95 and 96 and sensor ground is pin 25. After reading the pinout for a bit what is this self shut off control at pin 86? says 10-13 volts with key on engine off I can't find it on the wiring diagram but this pdf is a little hard to read. Considering that you still have wacky spark action, trying another ecu seems like the next step...she is still acting like a bad ground but i imagine that this behavior would be somewhat typical for a goofy ecu. maybe plug in the test mode connectors under the dash and see if anything weird is going on, I dunno I have a spare that I know works, I can send it in the mail if you need but certainly in WA everyone has spare subaru parts laying around? Especially for a 95. I will try the light on my sube as soon as I can, I need to get back to her to change the t belt and axle haha Edited January 10, 20188 yr by sparkyboy
January 10, 20188 yr Author OK I'm going off this first pic for my PIN id. I will cross reference the colors you mentioned. The second pic is my harness plugged in, ECM top up. far left are 15 and 16 I believe. And yes, the smaller yellow wires to the right of those do have ground.
January 10, 20188 yr Author This is shart.... according to the pain out in the above photograph the PDF that you linked to me pins 1 & 2 on my PCM ECM whatever the first one is green with silver stripes the second one is brown with silver Stripes then there's a about 1 2 3 4 5 6 blanks before another pin
January 10, 20188 yr Author Jesus okay the bottom row far right on my ECM the second to the last two pins are black wires with yellow stripe then there's a blank going left then there's a black wire with a red stripe then to the left of that is a blue wire with silver dots on it then is a blank to the left of that and then to the left of the blank is a red wire with a blue stripe to the left of the red wire with a blue stripe is a blue wire with silver dots to the left of that is yellow wire with silver dots to the left of that is brown wire with silver dots to the left of that is red wire with yellow stripe and then two blanks to the left of that which brings me to the center
January 10, 20188 yr Author Which means those should be pins 84 through 96 on my PCM or pins 71 through 83 as according to this drawing that I got from your on-board diagnostic system 1995 engine control manual PDF that I printed out
January 10, 20188 yr Author I am getting ground to the bottom right to pins and I'm getting power to the top-left to pins which is technically only half of the injection system I'm still trying to narrow down where the other two injector wires might be because the primary 2 are very thick whereas there are no other thick wires in the ecm harness except for the red power wire...
January 10, 20188 yr Author Conundrum as per this PDF diagram.... http://busaru.com/at...gacy Pinout.pdf Crank sensor pin 8 and 7 and cam sensor pins 6 and 5 as per the PDF, DO NOT exist on my ECM... They're blank... ANy thoughts? I will show you my pins in a photo in a second. Otherwise, I get all the correct voltage as per all yalls instructions to the important parts, yet I still have sporadic spark, but ZERO injector flash on a noid light until after key release as shown in a video I posted several day's ago. I am beginning to think this ECM is just done working, but need more info before tossing out a few hundred bucks at another no fix situation. The wiring in this car is UNMOLESTED, there's no freys or cut wires in the engine bay harnesses nor down near the ECM... Harness pic to follow
January 10, 20188 yr Now you need to scope the cam and crank sensor signals to the ECU to be certain it's receiving correct sync data. Do you have access to an oscilloscope? GD
January 10, 20188 yr yeah you got it look close at the pinout and you will see that the solid parts in the harness are not numbered. So the red is pin 5, green next is 6 and so on. The next wire is 7, which is four spaces down (the row). I know wtf haha? It wouldn't hurt to take a little piece of masking tape and write what the wire is for the ones you would like to test as you find them. It helps me greatly. Ignore the silver dots, the only reason I can think of why they even exist is for after they tested them at the factory. When I did the harness on my ej, I was so lost at one point, I almost gave up and was ready to buy a pre cut one for $200 persistance pays off here. Make sure that 12v are going to the proper places during cranking too, you might be losing it to the ecu at that point but still getting 12v in run Edited January 11, 20188 yr by sparkyboy
January 10, 20188 yr You really need more than the pinout - you need the Engine Control System schematic to reference for wire colors along with those pin numbers. And you REALLY need a scope to verify cam and crank sensor signal integrity and sync. A USB one for a laptop is probably the cheapest entry point on those. Those two sensors, along with voltage drop testing (not just standard DVOM readings) of all the 12v and ground pins... .if all that checks out I would be then be confident replacing the ECU. I'm not a parts changer - I test, verify, then replace. ECU's do go bad, but it's actually pretty rare. This is why diagnostics aren't cheap - my scope and it's accessories cost $4,000. But I don't get to ask the customer to pay for an ECU they didn't need. If I call it out - it better fix the problem. GD
January 10, 20188 yr Listen man if its the ecu you can have mine, they are at junkyards here for like 15 bucks. You can pay the like $5 for shipping instead of paying several hundred
January 10, 20188 yr Author FIX MY BRAIN GENTLEMAN Which pins in my illustration are 5 6 7 8 respectively??? They 5 6 7 8 pins are for the Crank sensor and the Cam sensor as per the above PDF file provided to me for 95 only Subaru legacy... Why is my PCM not matching ANY of the information subaru has? I have 3 check engine codes. Code 1- Crank sensor failure, I got this error by cranking the engine over with the sensor UNPLUGGED in an experiment. Code 2- IAC failure, same as above, I cranked engine over several times with this unplugged and it set a code, because that's the computers job. Code 3- Injector 2 failure, because that is where I have the injector unplugged while cranking and using the noid light to check for signal. Once again, this is correct and proper for the system to tell me it's bad when it's unplugged. ALL 3 codes clear when I plug the sensors back in and clear codes and crank again with everything normal, and there are no error codes present after that. Just to let you know that the ECM is performing it's duties of monitoring for faults and reporting them, and it reports nothing when those components are put back into the system. OK, now back to the pin wiring as noted above. Who can gimme ideas why my harness is missing them? Is mine supposed to be numbered left to right top to bottom? Right to left top to bottom? Left to right bottom to top? Right to left bottom to top? And NO I do not have access to an oscilloscope.... My restoration shop is OLD as the hills, but all my SUN equipment went out long ago 8) As always, thanks for any thoughts
January 10, 20188 yr Author yeah you got it look close at the pinout and you will see that the solid parts in the harness are not numbered. So the red is pin 5, green next is 6 and so on. The next wire is 7, which is three spaces down (the row). I know wtf haha? It wouldn't hurt to take a little piece of masking tape and write what the wire is for the ones you would like to test as you find them. It helps me greatly. Ignore the silver dots, the only reason I can think of why they even exist is for after they tested them at the factory. When I did the harness on my ej, I was so lost at one point, I almost gave up and was ready to buy a pre cut one for $200 persistance pays off here. Make sure that 12v are going to the proper places during cranking too, you might be losing it to the ecu at that point but still getting 12v in run You're saying count the wires not the pin positions?????? How will that work? I'm dying here... See above illustration and pin marking as per the PDF diagram, if it's number 6 it should be in #6 spot, and so on. But WHICH spot is #6, they'er all blanks....
January 10, 20188 yr You don't count the blanks. You only count the holes that have a wire, *or could accept a wire*. In your picture, 6 is either the white wire on the left, or the green wire on the right. My money is on the white wire as that one is next to a black wire (camshaft position negative), and white/black is the color for the hall effect sensor shielded pair cabling used in those harnesses. So yeah - it's the white wire on the top left. GD Edited January 10, 20188 yr by GeneralDisorder
January 10, 20188 yr Author Sorry General but I MUST disagree here... If I DID that then the numbers 15 and 16 the large yellow wires would NOT be 15 and 16 they would then be wires 11 and 12 .... Because there's ONLY 12 wires in the top row of my ECM, but there are 16 ECU pins.... Right? Wrong? This is general knowledge I thought.... Gawd I'm starting to hate subarus
January 10, 20188 yr Author WAIT, I got it~ theres 16 slots, but 12 wires in my top row, OK I understand now.
January 10, 20188 yr No 15 and 16 is correct. If you count only the positions that have wires, or have a HOLE where a wire/pin could be inserted, and NOT the solid plastic blank spaces, from right to left, then the large yellow/blue wires are 15 and 16. GD
January 10, 20188 yr Author And in this case, Both 6 and 8 pins had right around 6 or 7 volts, because I was probing everything... LOL
January 10, 20188 yr But, it looks to me like they are actually 1 and 2, not 15 and 16..... but I would need the pinout and schematic in front of me to tell for sure. I almost never work on models that old anymore and it's been years since I stripped a harness for a swap. GD
January 10, 20188 yr You mean 5 and 6? The hall effect waveform would likely show something in that range while cranking - the meter is going to average the waveform and give you some weird voltage that's.... well... meaningless because it doesn't tell you if the waveform looks correct of if the two waveforms are synced. GD
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