sparkyboy

When I use the ej starter on mine, the starter gear gets stuck on the flywheel. So the starter will keep spinning even with the key in run. I dunno exactly why, but I haven’t had an issue with the ea starter. Hope you fix her soon is this your first ej swap? If not you already know then, first thing is to mat the gas pedal and sidestep. Taking off in 4hi in the rain is a real treat in an L body with the double deuce, she’ll smash a bmw 325 ix haha!

Sorry to hear about your luck man. Fn dirtbags she’s a beauty too There’s a star in Pleiades that we can’t see that watches your sh!t when punks wanna steal. That’s what I said last time and dude got his car back a few days later. This is the only time you’ll hear me say this, but I hope she doesn’t have the ej. Only fools tryna joyride would steal an L body there’s no way you can outrun the cops and for certain the owner can spot her a mile away, all boxy and pretty among the current sea of capsules. If they have any sense they would know that right away. Plus the 4lo will get you far enough into the mountains for easy disposal of such garbage is what you should let them know if you ever get the chance.

Welcome Grennick! Your initial impression was spot on, the Subaru community is indeed a good one, all the stereotypes for roo drivers are positive, from the broke college kid with the $500 Craigslist special, your everyday gas sipping family driver (dog driving of course) or the obnoxious loud exhaust and turbo of the wrx boy racers, Subaru guys are always chill dudes, internet included! Usmb is a great forum, all the info you could ever need on the best of the hippie haulers. These are good cars because lots of fun and cool and sometimes crazy things can be done to them and they are designed in a way so that a guy like myself, who is heavy on the ambition but a little light on the technical and equipment side, and super lightweight on the wallet side of things can still happily wrench on and maintain a super reliable ride. Plus cops ignore Subarus, even if you drive em like you stolded em (highly recommended!)

Subaru brats are such an odd thing, they are often bought as toys for a beast off road build and can be had for just a few hundo from someone too light in their sube game, but some of the hard to find brat only parts like the jump seats and bed trim are worth a mint. At least those have the ea81 engine which was a good engine so someone makes most of the parts somewhere. The not as good ea82 has a few parts noone makes such as the oil pump, which pretty much sucks but the consensus seems to be that those engines are not worth keeping on the road. Luckily, (sorta) subaru had to sell out a bit in the 90s to general motors but one of the best things about gm is that if they invest in a car company they'll see to it that parts for that car grow on trees, sube built only about a billion ej22s and that wonderful engine basically drops right into earlier bodies. So, if I may, is this 79 a barn find that's been buried for decades and is still pristine? Or is she in the 300,000 mile club and rusting to pieces? How much do they want? Is a full frame off resto in your plans? Or beat her till she asssplodes, ej swap and keep thrashing on a huge lift with chevy six lugs? The funniest thing about these cars is that a perfect 79 brat sold for a relative huge pile of cash, over $45,000 at barrett-Jackson about a year ago, and set the precedent for dudes to start treating old brats more like old muscle cars which is a mixed bag of cool.

The "computer" on carby gls are really just a fuel pump controller for priming before starting, and stopping the fuel flow if the engine stalls or in an accident. It's 6 pins under the dash and like General Disorder stated has nothingto do with the ignition. With your loyale you should be able to get whatever function you need from the ecu harness and hardwire to the proper circuit on the fuse box or to a switch or relay. Dunno if the turbo disty is different which is pathetic cause I have an ea82t. I don't think there is any major diff b/w turbo and n/a distributors. It's easily bypassed and if you need another disty, I have a handful of those somewhere. I understand that the module is the only important and hard to find part of the ignition on those electronic carburetor/single point f.i. years.

Nice find man! She's a beauty alright, and just on the side of 300,000 miles? Oh she's been babied her whole life, are you the second owner? Haha You found those wheels at the junkyard? You bastard! Those are the 85 premiers. And probably worth $500 or so if you can find someone with an L body that's just gotta have em. Do you have all the center caps? I have a set too and have had lots of compliments and offers to trade. Good luck finding an 85 sube driver with $500 80s factory alloys are a rare sight, score! Anyway it's a bit difficult to really put a value on vintage subarus, even the rare turbo ones like gl 10 or rx. Little aftermarket support and the underpowered grocery getter reputation has resulted in these cars, particularly the wagons as being considered anything but collectible. The guys restoring them do it because they love the car, not for an investment. The value of early subarus hasn't seemed to bottom out quite yet, but there are signs of these going up, the brat seems to be our ray of hope for these cars being worth more than their original price someday. The 2nd gens have a great engine but based on my observations of the local market, original equipment and mileage is nearly inconsequential. In fact for 3rd Gen wagons an ej swap will definitely add value. So...if you were to try and sell yours in a hippie town like boulder, where 1 of 3 cars are subarus it seems like, $3500 would be a good starting point, maybe $4000 with the premiers. Considering a clean loyale with push button 4wd can get around 2k here right after the first snowstorm of the year lol. In texas? Probably can't sell her there, no snow and too slow for the hiway. For some incredibly wacky reason the fwd seems to command a $3-500 premium in asking price. Now no more goofing around and do what everyone here is already thinking...turbo traction clone time! If you need help cutting off the roof let me know, but finding or fabricating the high roof is up to you! Haha Cheers man, and enjoy the slowest of the jaw dropping cars of the 80s. She'll be a hit at car shows.

@1 Lucky Texan If you know, or can find out where the clear bra was installed you can maybe finagle your way into a new one...just tell the guys that did the install that x number of years ago (do a little research and find out if the shop opened after your wrx was 9 or 10 years younger, so you don't claim they installed before they existed haha) you sent your ex girlfriend or buddy or step child there to have the bra installed and you can't recall if they paid with their credit card, yours, or cash. If they're halfway cool then they should at least remove your old one for free. The 3m bras we used too, but it's only commercialy available so any warranty replacements we would inform 3m and they would discount the next order. I am unaware of any private parties getting a replacement from them. If they tell you to get lost, grab about 10 or 15 plastic razor blades and a handle, and a heat gun will get that thing off with about an hour of work. You'll probably also need a solvent for the adhesive residue, wd40 is a safe bet, but any stubborn gunk will come off with goof off or goo gone or that super expensive 3m adhesive remover. It's actually only $35 a can, but a little can of goof off is like $10 at home depot. So just expensive in comparison. Then some agreesive rubbing compound for the oxidized clear coat or for an extreme case, 1500 grit sandpaper and wet sand with soapy water or spray wax should have you set up nicely. There is actually an ideal situation for you in boulder, the shop I worked at (I did super sweet stereos!) changed ownership about a year ago, so they dunno, they'll probably hook you up just to avoid any bad reviews lol! Us sube guys can get away with such minor dishonesty cause we generally build lots of good karma with the car gods by pulling a 2wd truck outta the snow, pushing a kids dead datsun outta traffic, or my favorite way to gain favor with plieades, seeing a bum with a sign while I happen to be puff puffing so I'll pass to him. Makes their day every time! Haha! It's funny this subject has been brought up, I got the job by randomly noticing, and complimenting their very first shop car, an 88 gl when I was walking my dog. I was just buttoning up my ej swap on my 86 gl at the time, 3 years ago. They gave me that car free after 14 years of service with them, 4 with a bad head gasket and I am starting the ej swap on that car tonight.

I used to work at a place that installed clear bras in boulder, Co which has tons of subarus of nearly all vintages and styles and very few would come in for clear bras. It was mostly the guys with a newer audi or BMW who wanted the clear bras because they planned on keeping the car for about a decade then they can remove the bra in case they decided to sell. I personally don't think that a clear bra is worth the money and effort to maintain (should use polish and wax just like on the paint, but no rubbing compound) unless you plan on lowering your car and driving aggressively in the city and storing the car out of the sun mostly. If anything is neglected then you'll see the line become more and more apparent until you remove it and use rubbing compound or wet sand to blend the fresh paint under the bra with the rest. And if a hole gets poked in it don't lolly gag, it has to come off. Moisture gets trapped and you know the rest. On the other hand, your car is basically brand new, and a clear bra is cheap $125 or so with a 10 year warranty was our deal. A freshly purchased car should receive at least $500 or $1000 worth of upgrades to suit you. If you don't need window tint or a set of snow tires spend a little on the stereo and the clear bra. And have fun please drive her silly in the snow and go camping often

Any chance on simply bending that bastard back into shape? I need to step my game up and start fabbing up nla pieces such as those. There is a guy here that did the five lug swap with a mismash of early forester and legacy parts, I need to find the write up he did because that is one option for you if you would want to do all that work. Might as well open the can of worms completely and grab a front posi! But then you'll want more horsepower... Cheers man, good luck with the repair and I'll keep an eye out for L bodies in the junkyard.

Neat! I have the factory ea82 radiator on my swapped wagon with some cheapo no name fan on the outside. I found the fan at the junkyard in a first gen legacy. As I was finally finishing the ej install 3 years ago, (took me 8 months!) I ordered a piece very similar to that one, but made of silicone. then two pieces of flexy hose with the spring inside and some beating and coercing and my coolant circuit may be ugly, but she stays cool enough! in fact I didn't change a thing on her, same pieces from about 20,000 miles ago. I was reading an old hot rod magazine (2005) and a new part for $6 was a strip of metal with a spring that goes around the outside of a hose...you bend and trim as needed. genius! but i never seen this in real life however.

Factory two tone on my 85 xt! @YnotDIY I will be painting mine hopefully in the fall, i would love to see a write up or at least the results and what paint you used. Im keeping her factory color, what's your plan?

Sorry about having to let her go man, she's a beauty. Just like mine, same interior and all. Give us some more info on the other projects, those must be extra cool! She'll have a good home, for about 1/10th of the work to dismantle, find a place for, and deal with people you can replace the gasket and ask for $2000! If you were selling from CO at least, I've seen a super clean, grandma fresh loyale asking for $2500! I would think maybe $1800 at least is what the sellers got. Cheers man, sell her to some kid with dreams of ej swaps and huge tires.

Nice ride! These subarus have two common grounds from the factory, the left and right side have one ground each. As a result, you can use the stereo level hookups on your amp, and use the two leftover grounds from the aftermarket deck, then tap the front or rear positive signals for high level inputs. The advantage here is you don't need your rca inputs so the deck will fit nicely, as well as having the option to combine the common grounds after the amp to properly use a balanced audio subwoofer. Make sure your deck had the option of reversing the phase on the dub. I love jvc for this. And have fun! I'll post another thread on the common ground issue cause it's hard to grasp at first Cheers boys!

Correct me if I am wrong here boys, but didn't subaru use Carter carbs before they used Hitachi? Or maybe it was a regional or engine size matter, but I seem to recall a discussion on how the intakes are different. Won't the vintage weber 32/36 or modern redline carb fit an ea82 manifold with no mods/adapters? Anyway @Bratmobile when you get new weber, you should also get a jet kit to adjust for your engines operating conditions, as well as altitude and various levels of manifold vaccum. Since it's likely that you will have to disassemble the carb to change jets to fine tune your old girl, I would like to suggest that you explore the option of finding a vintage one and getting a rebuild kit! Loads more fun for probably less money. I have an ea82 manifold I'll sell you for junkyard price if you want, I need to get rid of some things and make some space Again fellas, correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't edelbrock purchase Carter in the 90s and use their avs (?) design after Carter and weber merged? So these new weber are really edelbrocks, which is probably a mixed bag of pros and cons when compared to a vintage Italian weber... Another neat piece of trivia: guess which manufacturer used some beast carter-weber carbs? Unfortunately they are mostly known for being cheaply made to a fault, but in reality paved the way for fast front drive cars via the scandanavian whip... Yugo! The carter/weber in that is nearly as large as the 2 bbl holley in 400 ci (6.6) lincolns from the 60s!

Those are cool! I have a white tool bag with green subaru logo! Also from the jy

You don't need to store the pics here. Mine has been full for years and you can't empty it. Here is my method: Post your pics anywhere you are comfortable, another forum perhaps, I tend to use facebook because you can post it to yourself but the point of this is to open the pic in a seperate window and copy the url then istead of "choose files" to insert the pics ypu want use "insert other media" and paste the url. Yea screw hosting sites like photobucket they really did hold peoples pics hostage. Don't give them a single pound! @Giles how's the resto been?

My 85 xt had some goofy problems with stumbling under high boost, right at 4,500 or 5000 rpm. It was highly intermittent, maybe one out of every 25 full throttle blasts she would hit a total wall and I just about flew through the windshield. Let me ask you this, when the goofiness occured could you pedal through it? I.e. pump the gas to get her revving again? If I kept the pedal steady it was sputter and bucking city for me but a few half throttle to full pumping had her good. Part throttle was never an issue. Once or twice I gave her such a hard time she went into limp mode. I checked a few things, I suspected the knock sensor. The reason was because l absent mindedly put cheap gas in the tank and it seemed to get worse...I checked the tps, basic tune up and no love. Anyway my problem was that my turbo was worn out, so oil was getting past the seal and getting pushed into the engine until the a/f ratio made good combustion impossible and trigger the knock. I never used a resistor to bypass the knock sensor thank god, I would have likely broken my ea82! The previous owner told me that there was low compression, so either cracked head or bad hg. I took her word for it and was going for the epic swan song assplosion cause I have an ej22 standing by, but plieades has other plans. If I would have taken 10 minutes to do a compression check (all good!!!) I would be driving her right now, but I was punished for my insolence in the form of stripping the last nut to remove the turbo. Well now I will finally drop that exhaust and look for cracks. Also my priorities were (still are) substantially backwards, stereo first, wheels next, then the health of the engine. Plus I bought into the hype that the ea82t sucks because of the "low" levels of hp, but if treated more like a torquey inline six you get treated right back. Max torque is quite low in the powerband (181 ft/lbs at 2,800 rpm). Good times man. ^^ This is why vintage sube guys are the coolest around. It's funny, I can't find it now but I typed ea82t into youtube and a few dudes were chasing the same issue. It's like 25 minutes long and was taped on an old camcorder. Nice enough seeming guys, but the dude taping was easily distracted and went outside to get footage of some other old school subes. At the end it seems like you will get an answer, but no love. I left a snotty comment haha! @2K4 STI is that the engine going in? 2 door or 4? Let's see some pics! Cheers on the easy fix!

Mine are oem from the junkyard, I believe from a sube cause I was all happy, me and then gf just got the 86 and when I showed her she flipped. The aftermarket ones have those rounded edges, I have one on my camaro. But look, these Mustang II covers will fit if the inside part is cut out for the lug nuts!

Oh ye bastard! Damn right i would have two elbows! How can an intake be split right at the middle? Dual plane spider intake anyone? Anyone look at the chrysler 273 two barrel intake and think that it looks like it would fit an ej engine almost? Cutoff wheel time!

It's all politics, boys. Here in CO in the old days you could buy a car from the jy and you will have a salvage title, so if one does the work, you can have a legal, registered car with a rebuilt from salvage title. Those days are no more and I found out the hard way..I saw a beautiful 1965 corvair van RAMPSIDE! You know, the door that slides back typical van style, but also lowers onto the street so you can push a dolly or cart into the cargo area. Gm flat six in between the front seats, all there. I ran to the manager to see how much...he told me it's no longer possible. Upon the sale to the junkyard, that title and VIN is considered "dead" and there is nothing you can do. I rarely do this, but I dejectedly wandered back to my camaro, put on some nofx and cried tears of sadness and anger. This was nearly a decade ago, I have been involved in local politics since. They changed the collectors vehicle law here briefly to be the most unfair in the entire country (1975 MY and earlier, with a grandfather clause that did not allow transfer of title) I gathered signatures with the question is a DeLorean or Ferrari collectible? Lawmakers say it's not cause it was built in the 80s? Nonsense! The law has been changed. It's 32 years or older now. My new petition is to eliminate the left turn red arrows. I have sat there and waited forever in heavy traffic while people could have gone, but it would have been breaking the law... Am I unreasonable here? If you have the green it should be motherfu**cker YEILD! It would clear up so much congestion, there are simply too many people here now to sit there at a red left turn light while nobody approaches in the opposite direction. People here just wanna get high, shrooms are now decriminalized, so maybe someone not turning left in front of me is a good thing... Sorry for the rant fellas, but if you can buy a car from the junkyard in your state, you are lucky. And count your lucky stars, some states do not allow self serve junkyards. Hoard ej22s!! Keep it up Bennie, we need more like minded people to spread awareness about unfair car laws worldwide!

These hankook 185/70/13 allowed me and my little red wagon put a stomping on one of germanys best awd sports cars in the snow! Full disclosure: my 86 gl has an ej22 and dual range, but I was laughing maniacally with the bouncing souls maniacal laughter playing. The BMW 325ix stayed in the rearview mirror, speeds nearing 100 mph!

I understand it's a bolt on affair, just a few small things to sort out such as wiring, and having the shifters and hardware. There is a good looking 4 speed d/r in one of my nearby yards. It's $125 plus a 40 core charge. Money well spent imo. Duals are getting scarce. The push button single range is soon gonna be the most common ea trans in the jy. Where are you located? I would love to help. I'm in Colorado

^^ This would be for automatic awd models only. There is a fuse under the hood to put the car in 2wd only so you can use it to tow a small trailer, or to flat tow the car in an emergency. Key must be in on hence the quickie 14.1v coming from the tow car. For a manual trans the only option to be flat towed without damaging the drivetrain is to remove the driveshaft from the rear diff, but leave the center support in place so the fluid doesn't spill all over. @Hanover Fist you don't have to worry about any of that cause your sube is 4wd=cool. my rv (1978 g30) is wired to charge the deep cycle battery for the 110v converter while the engine is running, I would assume this is common? I only know about duty solenoid c because when I was young and ignorant, new to subarus basically the driveshaft in my mom's beater 99 obw was failing so I drove her for a long time in 2wd. That issue was how I discovered this lovely forum, I promptly replaced the front half of the driveshaft for a $30 junkyard piece...my first independent subaru repair 5 years ago! Duty solenoid c can cause all kinds of awd related havoc if it fails and it requires digging into the trans to fix so I got lucky on that one! Food for thought on the subject of yanking subarus around I guess...if it were me and the v bar gave me problems, a two wheel dolly would be my route, that way the miles on the odometer aren't artificially jacked up! Cheers boys, Happy towing! Go somewhere like CA and enjoy the odd looks. 80s roos are a rare sight there!

Do you need a roof rack to attach mountain bikes or skis/snowboards to? Here in the US nearly all of the subarus have a rack, (except sports cars like brz and xt) so seeing one "rack delete" is a treat! On the 80s bods at least, they are just sheet metal screws with rubber gaskets to keep rain out. My two gls for comparison on typical roof and rack delete! 86 gl w/ej22 "chilly" 88 gl waiting for ej22 "skye" The 88 was either a stripped down model, (no rear spoiler either!!!) or someone took that stuff and did a bonny job filling the holes in. I love that vivio man, that one is not sold here! cheers man, in my opinion the legacy only looks naked next to your other cool subes with racks!

Give that poor girl the love she deserves I'm from CO, but I have been to texas, (sux BAD!!!) and of all the idiots moving to colorado, them and floridians make me laugh the most stuck in snow with 2wd trucks. No wonder they do awful things like this to a beautiful brat, all you need in texas to off road is monster tires and a diesel engine. No finesse or grace required like in the mountains. Hence this utter nonsense... @BeardedWrenchI'm glad you got her before those turds broke her and scrapped her. Name yet?