Haven't been active in quite a while, for I've been out of the Subaru game (almost for good). Traded an old clapped out 93 ranger for a 2000 Outback Limited with the 5 speed and already running into problems. I was aware upon the trade that these problems may surface though. Here's the deal. VERY high miles - 353xxx. Engine runs perfectly, throws no codes, etc. Transmission has no 4th gear, originally figured shift bushings being an issue like it would have been on the older models. Went to back up the other day, foot slipped off the clutch and "BANG", transmission popped loudly and shook the entire car in doing so. Now it sounds as if something is grinding in there, while in motion in any of the remaining gears at any speed or engine load. Pulled the dipstick and definitely some tiny metal flakes and sheen to the oil. So it's pretty obvious that it'll need to be pulled, either to repair or replace. My question is - does the engine have to be removed in order to drop the transmission, or is it much like the older EA chassis where it can be pulled without yanking everything? Another question, is the 6 speed a bolt in option in these? Apologies if this has all been covered before, would appreciate a point in the right direction if so. Thanks!

They will come out the bottom.  You'll want to pull the heat shield and pull the entire drive shaft out.  Put a baggy over the end snout and secure with a zip tie

.I find it easier to pull the motor first. Lots more working / wiggle room that way. 

Can't help you about the 6 speed , I'm sure someone else has that information.

Edited June 20, 20187 yr by montana tom

If you have a lift the transmission removal is usually done without removing the engine.  No lift usually means removing the engine as said above

I don't know for certain if the 6 speed is a suitable replacement option.

Well fellas, that's what I was thinking myself. I know on the old EA rigs it could be done either way. Being my newest subaru I'm trying to apply old school tricks wherever applicable. Given that both of you have stated a lift or engine pull may be needed depending on equipment, looks as if I'll be pulling the engine. Thanks!

next and possibly dumb question - would the MT from a 97 impreza outback (sport I guess?) be compatible ratio? I have one local I can grab for 50 bucks 'guaranteed to be good', and it's tempting to try - because otherwise I have to pack the gas hog up with kids and pregnant wife and head either to Spokane or the coast and go junkyard hunting... and the cheapest "maybe fit" trans I've found was 100+core...

Dan:  Important thing is the final drive ratio. Also is that it has a Hydrolic push clutch rather than a cable pull clutch.   

Your 2000 outback should be 4:11 at the tranny and rear end .  I  "THINK" the imprezza is the same but you must find out or it won't drive.

Call foreign engines in coeur D alene  800 552 1595.   They are Japanese importers.  They sell engines and trannys  (for more $ than you want to spend)... But they are really nice folks and they will gladly tell you if the imprezza tranny will fit. 

Or call pull in save in North Spokane, about what they may have ... the south lot hardly has any subi's , but the north lot is loaded.

20 minutes ago, montana tom said:

Dan:  Important thing is the final drive ratio. Also is that it has a Hydrolic push clutch rather than a cable pull clutch.   

Your 2000 outback should be 4:11 at the tranny and rear end .  I  "THINK" the imprezza is the same but you must find out or it won't drive.

Call foreign engines in coeur D alene  800 552 1595.   They are Japanese importers.  They sell engines and trannys  (for more $ than you want to spend)... But they are really nice folks and they will gladly tell you if the imprezza tranny will fit. 

Or call pull in save in North Spokane, about what they may have ... the south lot hardly has any subi's , but the north lot is loaded.

Yes, it's a 4.11, definitely hydraulic push clutch   . working on a comprehensive direct swap type list as I type this, from model year, specific model, etc. I was thinking that I could take the rear diff with the transmission to make sure, but that difference in clutch setups bugs me. I was in fact checking both pull and save yards current inventory this morning. I think as of this morning there were 17+ between both yards of similar models and year range. As a footnote about that impreza, the list I have (found elsewhere here in the USMB) says it's also a hydraulic push type clutch actuation. trying to find out now if the rear diff is compatible to swap into the outback, and if so I'd just get them both to guarantee ratio compatibility... and thanks for that #, I'll definitely call them

 

** Edit- the impreza I found locally IS cable op, and the rear end is shot (hence the fellow parting it out). Joy.

Edited June 21, 20187 yr by fatboy_dan

I just want to chime in and say that years ago I went from a '92 4.0L ranger with the bad mazda trans to a 2003 outback!