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EA82 coolant hose carby to thermostat rusted nipple

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As the title suggests, the little steel outlets at both ends of this hose have finally rusted up to the point that no amount of hose clamps will save it. There's about half of the original material left on both of them. 

I'm thinking of drilling them out, tapping new holes and screwing in new brass fittings... Has anyone else had luck doing this? I live in a pretty warm part of the country, how essential is this particular circuit? Assume it's for warming up the carby barrels... Can it be done without at all?

Sorry for no pictures at the moment. Thanks guys

I have replaced with brass and likely posted pics in here under username Jono

I used the 1/8" taper brass bits in 28 tpi starting at the block. Also used a 45° elbow so it gave path a downward dog  clearing my mpfi intake, then maybe a shorted barbed nipple. I think may have been three short pieces at the block end

I think the importance of this is as an air bleed as there isn't much volume carried through.

I think it worked, may be on an engine yet to be installed

 

There is a hose from the heater pipe to the carb base.  This is the one for carb warmup and anti icing in cold.  This hose can be eliminated.  simply cap the nipple at the heater pipe.  Other end needs no cap.  This hose gets ditched all the time in Weber swaps.

Then, there is a hose from the thermostat housing to the top of the block, under intake in center.  This hose is needed to prevent air bubbles from forming in the top of the block where the coolant passage for crossover is.  This hose is actually kinda important, although it can be capped of for a quick fix.  If this is the one you mean, it more about the air bubble than anything.  Tapping in a brass fitting should wokr fine, just make sure it will clear the manifold.

 

There should not be a hose from the thermostat area to the Carb.  If that is the case, someone has rerouted your coolant lines.

  • Author
On 8/28/2019 at 3:38 AM, FerGloyale said:

There is a hose from the heater pipe to the carb base.  This is the one for carb warmup and anti icing in cold.  This hose can be eliminated.  simply cap the nipple at the heater pipe.  Other end needs no cap.  This hose gets ditched all the time in Weber swaps.

Then, there is a hose from the thermostat housing to the top of the block, under intake in center.  This hose is needed to prevent air bubbles from forming in the top of the block where the coolant passage for crossover is.  This hose is actually kinda important, although it can be capped of for a quick fix.  If this is the one you mean, it more about the air bubble than anything.  Tapping in a brass fitting should wokr fine, just make sure it will clear the manifold.

 

There should not be a hose from the thermostat area to the Carb.  If that is the case, someone has rerouted your coolant lines.

Yes that second hose is the one I'm talking about, the crossover bleeder, didn't realise it terminated below the carb... I have had the OEM hose here collect rust in the elbow and burst... twice (used high pressure oil line instead third time).

I'll probably cap the bleeder for now until I get fittings, and also delete that other hose you mentioned. I'm sure it will crack/leak at some point. Thanks

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