So I'm digging through this Forester I picked up and I'm having trouble clearing the codes. I've tried disconnecting the battery but the check eng light is still on.

I've seen videos on the 1,2,1,2,3,D but that and the trip odometer headlight things don't seem to work.

Thoughts?

Edited January 3, 20206 yr by 4Flats

Cleared it with scanner at NAPA

if they come back, you need to find out what codes are presenting, and address the issues before clearing again.

I have transmission codes, serviced the transmission. Wanted to start with a clean slate. I noted the codes 700 trans, 734 4th gear ratio 733 3rd gear ratio. 

They are back, I'll start searching FAQ or post a new thread.

Just wondered why the other methods didn't work. 

Download the FSM here https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2005/

If the transmission is a 4AT, go to Page 59 and 60 (numbers at the bottom of the page).

Those codes mean the trans is slipping and is very likely going to fail. Best to just replace it with a used one. There won't be any fixing that in my experience. Just had a 2004 WRX with the same codes that wouldn't even shift out of first gear. Put in a used replacement trans with half the mileage and problem solved. I've seen that a couple times over the years and it's typically from poor maintenance. 

GD

It is probably worn out but (EDIT) 3 oddball issues:

I dropped the pan and did a full service, spin on filter and screen. The fluid was nasty and the filter had been on there a while. But It still seems to shift fine. 

The filter screen was a 3 bolt but the Napa computer and the O'Rileys computer said the transmission should have the 16 bolt (or so) screen. Is is it possible this transmission in incorrect for the vehicle? How do I identify the transmission type?

The other odd ball thing, could worn front tires cause this? The fronts are out of line and bald on the inside. Rears look pretty good.

There is an oil cooler above the filter, from my other post that is odd for a NA motor in the US?

 

 

 

Edited January 2, 20206 yr by 4Flats

13 hours ago, Rampage said:

Download the FSM here https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/Forester/2005/

If the transmission is a 4AT, go to Page 59 and 60 (numbers at the bottom of the page).

Thanks for the link. I'm digging in now to identify the transmission.

 

Quote

The other odd ball thing, could worn front tires cause this? The fronts are out of line and bald on the inside. Rears look pretty good.

absolutely, tires could be a source of issues and should be addressed asap

tires should all be the same brand, size and wear - at the very least, they should all be within approx 1/4" circumference of each other.

2 minutes ago, heartless said:

absolutely, tires could be a source of issues and should be addressed asap

tires should all be the same brand, size and wear - at the very least, they should all be within approx 1/4" circumference of each other.

I doubt it's that much just worn out. I could throw a bunch of air pressure in there to get it ridding on the center of the tire... I don't want to throw cash at a car that I may have to junk.

Looking at the 2005 manual listed above... That's not my transmission... Could there be Frankenstein mechanics going on here?

 

 

So far I see a different filter for the Turbo and Non-Turbo 4AT.

Go to page 4AT - 65.

Edited January 2, 20206 yr by Rampage

I should have looked closer in my earlier post for diagnostics. You want the 4AT(D)(diag) section. Take the tiny scroll bar down just below half way.

Page number 4AT(D)(diag)-59

 

It's not the wrong transmission or the computer would have a fit and it probably wouldn't drive or shift.

Yes it is normal for the the older Forester auto's to have oil coolers. 

GD

Thanks again for all the help. I wish I'd have found this forum sooner. I blew $100 on trans filters and fluid looking for a quick fix that wasn't there. 

Went shopping and found 2 used transmissions locally one $225 with 205k on it on the shelf ready to go and one for $250 with 119k on it. I've got an oil leak from the passenger side head so that's on the list.

End of the day I've got a clean 2005 forester with no corrosion or rust, straight body but a trans issue and an oil leak. as it sits it is worth something and fixed it is worth a bit more. 

4th down and 10 to go. Punt or slap and transmission in and pull the heads. This would be easier if I had a lift. I bet I could drop the eng trans and front end all at once...

So I'm transmission shopping now. Found a 2005 with 120k on it and a 30 day warranty for $200. How do I confirm comparability?  I already had the pick up filter delima.

 

Also since I have that oil leak... i guess the engine is comming out too.. any tip for doing both? Engine out first? All the books and videos are one or the other.

 

4 hours ago, 4Flats said:

How do I confirm comparability?

The first 7 digits must match. The last 3 don't matter.

Looks like the T has dirt on it.

There should be 10 digits. TZ1B5LCXAA

T - transmission

Z - Full Time 4WD AT

1B - Gear ratio

5 - Series code

L - not on my chart, but references the internal workings of the transmission

C - engine type and turbo or non-turbo

X - Year

AA - unknown 

3 hours ago, Rampage said:

The first 7 digits must match. The last 3 don't matter.

Looks like the T has dirt on it.

There should be 10 digits. TZ1B5LCXAA

T - transmission

Z - Full Time 4WD AT

1B - Gear ratio

5 - Series code

L - not on my chart, but references the internal workings of the transmission

C - engine type and turbo or non-turbo

X - Year

AA - unknown 

Thanks for the info! I have 3 options to check out. 

just some food for thought.. find out what the terms of any warranty are..

I bought a used tranny w/warranty a few years ago that REQUIRED a certified shop to install - which i had done - and they STILL refused to honor the warranty when the tranny failed in the test drive, claiming the shop must have done something wrong.

I never did get any money back from that one. Needless to say, I will not deal with that place ever again.

 

10 hours ago, heartless said:

just some food for thought.. find out what the terms of any warranty are..

I bought a used tranny w/warranty a few years ago that REQUIRED a certified shop to install - which i had done - and they STILL refused to honor the warranty when the tranny failed in the test drive, claiming the shop must have done something wrong.

I never did get any money back from that one. Needless to say, I will not deal with that place ever again.

 

Thanks, I'll get that in black and white.