The exhaust has new OEM gaskets and the studs and bolts are ok. I did make a small galvanized steel cover for the driver side EGR outlet at the exhaust pipe flange. This EA82 was from a carb fuel system. The sound is emminating from the cam areas, and slightly more on the driver side. This engine has less that 20 miles on it. And maybe an extra 3 hours max of running time at idle, spanned over a week or more. Plenty of oil is getting to the cams and I checked today that the rockers are solidly on the HLA and valve.

I still had a rough idle and erratic acceleration. So I swapped out the NGK plugs for another set and double checked the gap, making sure the plug wires were firmly attached. The car now runs well. Once again it is a fun and reliable drive. Gotta hand it to them Subaru cars.

And there is that thin metal wheel well panel that the left tire would rub against when steering hard right. It was bent outwards enough to have the tire make contact and the horrible scraping sound I first thought to be the outer CV joint self destructing. I had bent [pulled] that panel inwards when fighting the strut back into the steering knuckle after changing the axle. Point is that even well researched and correctly done repairs by the novice can quickly lead to causing peripheral problems. That's why good professional mechanics are worth every penny.

Edited May 23, 20205 yr by rickyhils

Good thing is that you are learning to keep your beast on the road. The world is getting short of mechanics willing to nut out the old school stuff. I get the impression the young blokes wanna plug in the scan tool, carry out what it suggests and hope that fixes things.

Next thing that goes wrong just start a new thread and go from there 

I will be back here for sure. I will be putting a lot more local miles on this car.

I'll look out for a few extra spare parts. I have an extra oil pump [Beck Arnley], front wheel hub, OEM starter and and OEM alternator. And a backup C/V axle. Car is FWD. Important to get that axle nut up to 150 ft/lbs or hub splines will strip out. And on the hub centerpiece I ground off that outermost "lip" that forms over time. There is still enough "meat" on it for the "THIS SIDE OUT" washer to give a good push on it.

Onward.

I'd say hung up.or bad seating valve,start there, head is easier to deal w then piston rings...