I'm a newby with engines, but I got a spare EJ22 I'm about to dig into.  If anybody has the experience, what would you put in this engine besides new gaskets? Anyone feel like making a shopping list for me? I want everything internal in this engine to last. Any updated parts I should know about, being lighter/stronger? Plan on taking this engine down to the crankshaft and putting in new pistons and rings.

Highly recommend a n00b take my advise and DO NOT split the case. If there's no metal in the pan or the filter just leave it alone. Change rings and do up all the gaskets - being a n00b you will probably make mistakes even going that far unless you read for a solid couple months on the subject and buy the correct tools. 

I have many old posts on the subject and why this is the case. Search is your friend. 

And in general Subaru engines are not economically viable to rebuild in the first place - ReSEAL yes. Rebuild no. 

GD

58 minutes ago, SubaruLegacyWagon said:

I'm a newby with engines, but I got a spare EJ22 I'm about to dig into.  If anybody has the experience, what would you put in this engine besides new gasket feel like making a shopping list for me? I want everything internal in this engine to last. Any updated parts I should know about, being lighter/stronger? Plan on taking this engine down to the crankshaft and putting in new pistons and rings.

Subaru parts:  headgaskets, PCV valve, radiator hoses, radiator cap. Timing kit - pulleys, tensioner and belt.  AISIN is a suitable supplier of OEM Subaru timing components.

Absolutely resurface the heads.Don’t check for flatness it’s an archaic waste of time.

2 valve cover gaskets, 6(?) valve cover bolt grommets, 2 cam seals, (1 or 2) cam cap orings, oil pan gasket, crank seal, oil pump oring. 2 Exhaust manifold gaskets, 2 intake manifold gaskets, rear main seal. I’d get all subaru usually but many of these have good aftermarket alternatives.

Tighten the oil pump backing plate screws. One or three are always loose. Use a quality driver.

Reseal the rear separator plate - a 93 shouldnt be plastic but replace with metal if it is  

Install a new knock sensor. By far the single most common sensor to fail. New radiator and Subaru hoses and cap. 

Crank pulley - install a newer hood condition used one or buy new. 

Ive never seen Subaru valve issues in EJs so I usually leave valves and stem seals untouched.

Splitting engines isn’t my speciality (if anything even is haha) so take this lightly but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the block.  

11 minutes ago, GeneralDisorder said:

ReSEAL yes

I’m sure you’ve said this before - but is there an age when valve stem seals and valve job make sense or you always do those?

I’ve almost always skipped those but I’m mostly doing H6 and FB the last few years. 

On 3/27/2022 at 8:54 PM, idosubaru said:

Subaru parts:  headgaskets, PCV valve, radiator hoses, radiator cap. Timing kit - pulleys, tensioner and belt.  AISIN is a suitable supplier of OEM Subaru timing components.

Absolutely resurface the heads.Don’t check for flatness it’s an archaic waste of time.

2 valve cover gaskets, 6(?) valve cover bolt grommets, 2 cam seals, (1 or 2) cam cap orings, oil pan gasket, crank seal, oil pump oring. 2 Exhaust manifold gaskets, 2 intake manifold gaskets, rear main seal. I’d get all subaru usually but many of these have good aftermarket alternatives.

Tighten the oil pump backing plate screws. One or three are always loose. Use a quality driver.

Reseal the rear separator plate - a 93 shouldnt be plastic but replace with metal if it is  

Install a new knock sensor. By far the single most common sensor to fail. New radiator and Subaru hoses and cap. 

Crank pulley - install a newer hood condition used one or buy new. 

Ive never seen Subaru valve issues in EJs so I usually leave valves and stem seals untouched.

Splitting engines isn’t my speciality (if anything even is haha) so take this lightly but I wouldn’t recommend splitting the block.  

I'd definitely go with Subaru Genuine on the oil seals. I've never seen any aftermarket brands that fit and last like the OEM ones do.