87 GL crank no start issues

[Highstone Soobie]

Hopefully you all can help.

I have an 87 GL 1.8L 4x4  wagon  Weber Carbureted w/270000 miles.

Have had for 5 years now and been having no start issues for about 2 weeks now.Your forums have steered me in the right directions but no luck.

I have spark from coil to disty, disty to#1, new cap/rotor, rotors turns in disty so not the time belt. Seems  to be getting fuel to carb, it ckokes and sputters and acts like it's flooding out and back fires , and hit the carb with starting fluid, won't even try to fire. Then checked rev sensor (what's up with  that stupid thing)have power to the unit, have tack pulse, tried jumping several different ways just to be sure I didn't have wires mixed up. Can't hear pump kick on, but actually never have heard it since I got the car. Assume it's working cuz carb is flooding out.

So not sure where to check from here. Any advice ???? would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance 

 

 

 

 

[el_freddo]

Check the RHS timing belt. If that’s snapped you’ll have weird symptoms. The LHS timing belt spins the LHS cam, oil pump and the dizzy, while the right is only responsible for the RHS cam. 

Check that belt and get back to us. I’m out of ideas otherwise (for now). 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Highstone Soobie]

 Thank you. Pulling timing covers today. Initially checked inspection plugs and seemed intact but we shall see. Pulled covers.belt is tight and intact. How can you tell if it jumped time???

Also have been looking through posts trying to find info on the green code connectors, and seems others have posted also as only finding the one four pin green connector under the dash. Not in engine bay. No black or white connectors anywhere. Found: 1 green single wire connector(male) under dash.        3 blue single single wire connector (2 male and 1 female unhooked under dash.           1 green four pin connector female under dash.       1 white four pin connector (female)

No green white or black on passenger side or under hood, or in back tail light areas, or proper connectors under dash on drivers side, which is currently torn apart trying to find this green 4 wire connectors mate..

Is this GL a ghost or a half model. Seems not to many of these out there. So anyone have any ideas on code connectors and their proper location? Anyone. Anyone?????

 

 

[Highstone Soobie]

Is there possibly anything in the ignition that I'm missing and I should check!?

[el_freddo]

G’day Highstone Soobie, 

Only way to tell timing is to remove the covers and check. When the crank is lined up, one cam will be lined up and the other at 6 o’clock. It’s good that the belts are tight for a start.

Since your L series is a carb model, you won’t have the green connectors for codes. That’s only for SPFI, MPFI and MPFI turbo models. 

I can’t remember if the carb fuel pump primes momentarily when you first turn the key to the ON position. You should be able to hear it. 

Alternatively, pull the fuel in hose at the carb, put a bottle on the end and turn the ignition to the ON position. Check the bottle for fuel. If none there, crank the engine over as this should tell that module thingo to operate the fuel pump. If there’s still no fuel you have an issue with the fuel pump, blocked filter or that fuel cut module. 

I’d first try bypassing that module temporarily. I can’t remember which wires to loop together to make the fuel pump operate with the key in the ON position. 

Once that’s established, next would be filter and then the pump. 

I’m also assuming you have enough fuel in the tank for the pump to pick it up. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Highstone Soobie]

So time is fine and yes plenty of fuel.

Pulled fuel line, crank no fuel. Must have been residual in line to make sit sputter and backfire.Found one of GD's post on rev sensor. 

Said if the tach pulse strobes with test light. There's power in and ground then rev sensor is bad. So bad sensor right. I jumpered proper wires to bypass sensor and nothing from the pump. No sound no power

My question: can both of those go out at the same time or could I be missing something else??

Also no connectors, and no OBD, how can you pull codes?

Thanks again for your time. This car has been racking my brain. All I look up seems to dead end me.

 

 

[moosens]

Codes are flashes. Benny made a recent post on that. Long and short flashes indicate tens and single digits. Three longs and two shorts would be 32. And like that. 

[Highstone Soobie]

.Thanks for the input. As  Bennie stated up above since mine is carbed I do not have the test connectors to plug together to check the flashes on my1987 (06/87) GL wagon w/1.8L carbureted motor. I'm just curious how I am supposed to get into read mode is all  so I can read flashes that come from the ECU. I do get the whole Morse code sequencing. 

 

 

[moosens]

Been ages for me but I’m surprised you haven’t seen any of that in the archives. I’m old but I sure do recall folks posting that info. 
 

I’be ditched the 80s and all my service manuals etc, but I’m pretty sure the code page is posted as well as how to manage the green and black connectors. 
 

87 is a split year. You get carbs and SPFI here in the States. I’ve swapped them and plugged the EGR and lots more but again I’m a solid 20 years from having one under me. Good luck. I’ll see if I’ve still got one FSM from that era but I doubt it. They should be online. 
 

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/
 

There’s one for older models out there too. I just can’t find it. This one might have some info. 

[el_freddo]

Hang on, do you have an ECU that’s running a Weber carb fed engine? 

Asking as all factory mechanical carb EA82s over in Oz lack an ECU. Hence why I said yours wouldn’t be able to show codes - you need to go old school on this one! 

Check your fusible links and the fuses under the dashboard. One of them might be dead. 

Cheers 

Bennie

[Highstone Soobie]

You are correct sir. It came with the Weber carb when I got it. I did check both sides of all the fuses and all had power. With the fusible links, the old school ones are hard to find. Is there a way to make your own with the correct amperage??? 

Thanks again

 

[SuspiciousPizza]

Fusible links are available. You can even buy them on Amazon. Just google "Subaru Loyale fusible link" and you'll get a whole bunch of listings.

Have you put voltage to the fuel pump itself? Just to test the pump? You mentioned bypassing the rev sensor and the pump didn't do anything, so is it just the pump that's dead?

:]