First joined this forum 20 years ago when I had an 84 hatch that I had bought sitting in a field while I was in high school. At the time, I had a 91 Legacy. Drove that till it blew up and then picked up an 83 Brat that I found for sale on here and picked up another 83 for parts. Had a 2000 RS coupe in college, then a 95 Outback beater. Sold the RS and got an 05 STi, sold it in 2016 and got back into an 04 WRX in 2022. Picked up this 84 GL 2 weeks ago as if I needed another project but I am not poor on vehicles - also have a 2019 Tundra and 2015 Rav4.

This thing was in surprisingly good shape for being an east TN car. With that, it does have its issues. I have on my work bench a new rear wheel bearing to install, hatch struts, will need a radiator as I see it dripping. I am also trying to nail down why the blower isn't working. I pulled the fan resistor switch last night and it showed continuity but I need to see exactly what ohm values it's supposed to have. Nothing like reading 20+ year old USMB posts. 

We still like pics on here? 

 

 

Edited July 11, 2025Jul 11 by Durania

 

Edited July 11, 2025Jul 11 by Durania

Edited July 13, 2025Jul 13 by Durania

Is that a 2wd?  Replace the wheel bearing by replacing the rear axle.  

Blower circuit is mildly annoying.  If it won't work at all, it's not the resistor - the resistor isn't used on high speed.  There's a hidden glass fuse and a round relay tucked up in the dash somewhere to the left of the steering column iirc.  The relay is turned on by one of the accessory fuses and a ground wire to some screw somewhere that I don't remember, and the power to the hidden fuse comes straight off the fusible link.  This provides positive to the blower motor.  Negative to the blower motor is through the resistors (except on high) and the switch in the dash.  Pop the plug to the blower motor and get a test light out, see if you're missing positive or ground.  If you have no positive, then dig under the dash for the relay and hidden fuse.  If you're missing ground, then check the speed switch in the dash and its ground.  If you have both, might need brushes in the motor.  Just to say it again, **hidden fuse**.  It's a clearish/white plastic glass fuse holder just randomly dangling off the harness tucked up in the dash and not accessible, and this is the fuse that powers the blower.

The only available radiators are aluminum these days.  If you use one, you must install a reservoir like a newer car has.  From what I can tell, running them without a reservoir, with an air bubble in the top like these cars normally run with, causes them to instantly crack due to thermal stress as the air bubble moves around.

 

Thanks man, I really appreciate it! Yes, it's 2WD 5MT. 

 

I'm going on vacation tomorrow for a week so I'm going to have to tackle it when I get back. I wanted to do more testing before I dropped ~$100 on one of those resistors and the one I have now definitely looks to have been replaced. 

 

Good call on the radiator. 

Edited July 12, 2025Jul 12 by Durania

From what I can see, that car looks surprisingly solid. Nice find!

Yeah, that's one of the cleanest ones I've seen...  my daily driver has enough rust that the front of the rocker moves independently of the back of the rocker if I open my door into the stop...

 

Thanks! It appears someone definitely paid for the undercoating and it paid off. I've only seen some very minor flaking on the front bumper attachment points. 

 

 

Edited July 13, 2025Jul 13 by Durania

Since no one said it yet, yes we still love pics on here!! You’re doing well there. 

@bushytails - good pick up on the 2wd setup! What gave it away? 

As for wheel bearings on the rear, they’re like trailer bearings, get a new set and swap them on - change the bearing races on the hub too. No shortcuts!

Cheers 

Bennie

The chrome bumpers is what I always look for on these to indicate 2wd vs 4wd.

So, what are my options on window cranks? I've got a couple that have suffered the effects of age and the splines have stripped out on them. Did anyone ever make aftermarket ones that slid on? I've dealt with this problem on 4 different EA81s. 

Also, I have some replacement hatch struts but the previous owner has lost the brackets on the left-hand side one where they attach to the body. Does anyone have those laying around?

Thanks! 

          

On 7/11/2025 at 8:51 PM, bushytails said:

 It's a clearish/white plastic glass fuse holder just randomly dangling off the harness tucked up in the dash and not accessible, and this is the fuse that powers the blower.

Sir, you absolutely nailed it. 

 

 

I assume Subaru realized that the fuse box was no longer big enough for all the loads on their newest models...  and rather than putting in a bigger fuse box, decided to just do *THAT*! 

If it works with a new fuse, I wouldn't investigate too hard unless it blows again - it can randomly blow if anything (leaf, mouse, etc) jams the blower wheel.

Window cranks/winders: can use L series units when you find good ones. There were some models that came with some sweet metal winders that never perish in the heat. 

There will be some (I think) ABS printed window winders on the market sometime soon. They’re in the testing phase now and really look the part! 

Hope this helps. 

Cheers 

Bennie

8 hours ago, bushytails said:

I assume Subaru realized that the fuse box was no longer big enough for all the loads on their newest models...  and rather than putting in a bigger fuse box, decided to just do *THAT*! 

If it works with a new fuse, I wouldn't investigate too hard unless it blows again - it can randomly blow if anything (leaf, mouse, etc) jams the blower wheel.

I think it's where it's got the dealer add-on AC system. I have another wiring harness that came with this from a non-AC model and it doesn't have that fuse. 

3 hours ago, el_freddo said:

Window cranks/winders: can use L series units when you find good ones. There were some models that came with some sweet metal winders that never perish in the heat. 

There will be some (I think) ABS printed window winders on the market sometime soon. They’re in the testing phase now and really look the part! 

Hope this helps. 

Cheers 

Bennie

 

 

Which L-series are you referring to? Legacy L/Brighton? 

37 minutes ago, Durania said:

Which L-series are you referring to? Legacy L/Brighton? 

We got the L series in Oz from late ‘84 through to ‘94. Other names used state side I believe are Leone, DL, GL etc. the wagon isn’t known as a Leone, only the sedan. The GL is the up-spec model so no window winders there due to power windows. 

The Legacy’s and Imprezas that don’t have power windows will also work I believe. 

Cheers 

Bennie

Ahh, I got ya now. I didn't see your location. 

I did find this eBay link to some window cranks. I've bought from this seller in Thailand before, great packaging. Prices are on the higher side but they've got some parts and pieces that are difficult to find. 

:]

Thanks for the link. I'm not sure if those will work on mine, those look to use a screw to attach. Mine use those c-clips to hold it to the regulator itself. 

I love the ea81 wagons. Back in 2007 or so my two friends took a low mileage 83 wagon from southern British Columbia down to Nicaragua. Someone smashed one of the side windows so my buddy sold it down there. I couldn't go at the time cuz I was in college. They beat the hell outta that car driving through Mexico. Took it down the baja on their route. 
 

1 hour ago, landovonderberg said:

I love the ea81 wagons. Back in 2007 or so my two friends took a low mileage 83 wagon from southern British Columbia down to Nicaragua. Someone smashed one of the side windows so my buddy sold it down there. I couldn't go at the time cuz I was in college. They beat the hell outta that car driving through Mexico. Took it down the baja on their route. 
 

Shoot man, that would be a trip. 

Got the rear wheel bearing changed today. Freddo was right, they're like a boat trailer. I got one of the hatch struts replaced but the previous owner lost the brackets where they mount on the driver side to the body so I'm needing a set if anyone is selling. 

 

Also discovered I have a leaking transmission axle stub seal. Glad I threw a long cardboard box under it in the shop. 

 

Edited July 27, 2025Jul 27 by Durania

You're doing it wrong...  you take off the shocks, then the three bolts on the trailing links, then the inner bushes, then drop the gas tank, then bolt up the 4x4 gas tank, the mustache bar and diff, and the trailing links with CVs... 

Give me time, I'm still learning.