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When you say “centre seal” do you mean on the sundial? 

The seal is fitted from behind the sundial, so once it’s removed you knock it out towards the direction of the diff (orientation when the sundial is fitted). 

When you fit the new seal sure you have the correct unit to put in as they are directional. Also have a new large O ring on hand to install too. 

When you remove the sundial from the gearbox, mark where it’s currently located across the dial and the gearbox case, count the number of turns until the dial is free from the threads, also a good idea to mark where this point is so you’re not potentially counting a turn that’s not engaged on the thread. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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You’ll be right. Do one side at a time so you have a reference point for the removed sundial. If the dial becomes hard to turn about two notches past your original start mark, back it off so the marks line up. Can’t go wrong doing it this way! 

Cheers 

Bennie

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Changed the axle seal yesterday on the driver side. Now that I know how to do it, I could definitely do it again. I think having a shop press would making it easier in the future. I do have a Harbor Freight gift card burning a hole in my pocket. You can see the damage on the seal here. Fixed a flashing issue on the turn signals too. Someone stuck too small of a bulb in it. Took it for the longest drive it's had since I got it. Tried to give her some beans to get any junk ran through the carb. 806970020

 

Adding this for anyone else:

CV axle seals/LHD

Left/driver side is 806727180

Right/Passenger side is: 806727170

2 o-rings are 806970020

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That temperature gauge is *way* too high.  Address that promptly or you'll be getting to do head gaskets very soon.  At highway speeds the needle should be at the lower black line, and it should never get to the second black line.

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5 hours ago, bushytails said:

That temperature gauge is *way* too high.  Address that promptly or you'll be getting to do head gaskets very soon.  At highway speeds the needle should be at the lower black line, and it should never get to the second black line.

That’s where the thermo fans kick in! 

My brumby with that dashboard conversion (we never got them in the brat/brumby from factory like you guys in the states did) does the exact same thing when there’s not enough airflow through the radiator - typically when in traffic. 

Unless you were pulling highway speeds I wouldn’t stress about it, particularly if it came back down to normal op temp just above the first black line. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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