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When you say “centre seal” do you mean on the sundial? 

The seal is fitted from behind the sundial, so once it’s removed you knock it out towards the direction of the diff (orientation when the sundial is fitted). 

When you fit the new seal sure you have the correct unit to put in as they are directional. Also have a new large O ring on hand to install too. 

When you remove the sundial from the gearbox, mark where it’s currently located across the dial and the gearbox case, count the number of turns until the dial is free from the threads, also a good idea to mark where this point is so you’re not potentially counting a turn that’s not engaged on the thread. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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You’ll be right. Do one side at a time so you have a reference point for the removed sundial. If the dial becomes hard to turn about two notches past your original start mark, back it off so the marks line up. Can’t go wrong doing it this way! 

Cheers 

Bennie

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Changed the axle seal yesterday on the driver side. Now that I know how to do it, I could definitely do it again. I think having a shop press would making it easier in the future. I do have a Harbor Freight gift card burning a hole in my pocket. You can see the damage on the seal here. Fixed a flashing issue on the turn signals too. Someone stuck too small of a bulb in it. Took it for the longest drive it's had since I got it. Tried to give her some beans to get any junk ran through the carb. 806970020

 

Adding this for anyone else:

CV axle seals/LHD

Left/driver side is 806727180

Right/Passenger side is: 806727170

2 o-rings are 806970020

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That temperature gauge is *way* too high.  Address that promptly or you'll be getting to do head gaskets very soon.  At highway speeds the needle should be at the lower black line, and it should never get to the second black line.

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5 hours ago, bushytails said:

That temperature gauge is *way* too high.  Address that promptly or you'll be getting to do head gaskets very soon.  At highway speeds the needle should be at the lower black line, and it should never get to the second black line.

That’s where the thermo fans kick in! 

My brumby with that dashboard conversion (we never got them in the brat/brumby from factory like you guys in the states did) does the exact same thing when there’s not enough airflow through the radiator - typically when in traffic. 

Unless you were pulling highway speeds I wouldn’t stress about it, particularly if it came back down to normal op temp just above the first black line. 

Cheers 

Bennie

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I'm not familiar with the older gens. Does each line indicate something? Like first line is where the thermostat opens, second line is "high normal op temperature", 3rd is "dancing with danger" and 4th is really not good? 

I've never opened an older gen FSM or owners manual, let alone seen an older gen in the flesh other than a BRAT at a car show once. 

Are the dash readouts known for any inaccuracies such as the 3rd gen oil pressure gauges being quite vague?

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I, personally, would not worry about the temp gauge. To me, that’s where I would want it to be, about the middle. I have never owned an EA81, but my ‘04 Nissan, my daughter’s ‘02 Outback and my wife’s ‘17 Legacy, all run in the middle. 

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I noticed that as well when I was driving it. I do know that I have a seeping radiator and trying to get a plan in action to either get it repaired or find a replacement. I did order an OEM thermostat this morning because I know how finicky the EA81 can be about aftermarket thermostats and I have no clue what's in it. The good news is the fan does run, unlike the others that I had that ran the fan all the time. My brat with an OE thermostat usually sat around this line that I have marked and I watched it constantly. I am also going to replace the radiator cap. Are the Stant ones okay? I asked my dealer and I can't get an OE one anymore.

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7 hours ago, el_freddo said:

Unless you were pulling highway speeds I wouldn’t stress about it,

They're going 65mph in the photo...  at that speed, it should be firmly at the bottom line, where the thermostat opens.

16 minutes ago, Durania said:

I noticed that as well when I was driving it. I do know that I have a seeping radiator and trying to get a plan in action to either get it repaired or find a replacement. I did order an OEM thermostat this morning because I know how finicky the EA81 can be about aftermarket thermostats and I have no clue what's in it. The good news is the fan does run, unlike the others that I had that ran the fan all the time. My brat with an OE thermostat usually sat around this line that I have marked and I watched it constantly. I am also going to replace the radiator cap. Are the Stant ones okay? I asked my dealer and I can't get an OE one anymore.

EA81s aren't picky about thermostats, since they're on top like most older vehicles - it's the newer EJ motors that have them on the bottom that are super picky. 

My first guess would be a clogged radiator. 

Where on your temperature gauge does the thermostat open?  From a cold engine, keep feeling the outlet side.  It'll be cold and then suddenly hot when the thermostat opens.  Then keep watching the gauge, and also note where the electric fan kicks on.  These are your reference points for where the gauge should read.  On level highway it should be at the point the thermostat just opens, and it should never exceed the point where the fans kick on, at any speed.

 

Edited by bushytails
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That was the first real drive I've done in it since getting the blower going and I did notice I had good heat at the feet so at least it's flowing through the heater core. I'm going to get a plan of action with this radiator since it's currently dripping and I'm going to be changing the lower hose that's been roadside-repaired with a union piece. 

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