My dad just put a 32/36 weber on his 87 wagon using the redline adapter but had to take off the automatic choke housing.

 

When the choke housing is on the carb you can't put the carb on due to the fact that it hits the power streing pump

Not having a duble pully on the ps pump we also canot move the pump forward.

 

Any ideas as to why the simple bolt on procedure isn't so simple?

Just turn it around 180º. very common problem. You could also go with a manual choke set up. Later, Tim

Just turn it around 180º. very common problem. You could also go with a manual choke set up. Later, Tim

What about the throtle linkage?, it would be backwards.

And how would that work?

Move the cable over and then wrap it from the bottem instead of the top. Also, call www.carbsunlimited.com and ask them how to get around it; or call the dealer where you bought it. Also, the manual choke is a good suggestion.

What about the throtle linkage?, it would be backwards.

And how would that work?

I have been there and done that...

 

So many ways to go about this.

 

My first way (kinda ghetto really now that I think back)

 

Put the 32/36 DGEV (electric choke) on backwards. Ran the throttle cable around the bottom... Hmm throttle cable is too long and started to bind up.

 

Ok lets shorten the throttle cable... ok now its frayed... great...

 

throttle cable breaks during a rally cross... I rig it to get my runs in and get me home.

 

Solution:

 

Switch to a 32/36 DFEV (its reversed) your throttle can now remain on the passenger side of the car and you can use a normal throttle cable. I had to weld my throttle cable cam thingie to the part that bolts to the carb to actuate the throttle, but thats it... and slightly move the cable mount rearward. A much more polished job than before though.

 

The good news... there is ALWAYS a market for webers here so you can probably get close to what you paid for the carb and buy the reversed one.

 

 

1 more thing.... where the carb adapter mounts to the intake there is a water passage... get the coolant out of it, grind back the metal tube inside a bit and insert a small screen scrap (like a screen door) and then FILL it with JB weld. Also on the 1/4" water hose leading to it insert a 1/4 diameter 1" long stud INTO the hose (get a new hose to be safe) and clamp the stud in place.

 

This will act as a plug AND assuming anything gets past it, the JB weld is what it will hit... your intake will never leak this way... it leaked before like once a year with it unplugged and just a gasket over the hole.