Another newbie q'n for ya: How do you torque down the crankshaft pulley bolt w/a manual tranny w/o turning the whole crankshaft motor? Unfortunately I wasn't the one to take it off, so I don't know how to secure the crank from moving while torquing on/off. I put it in gear and it still turns a bit and prevents me from torquing it down to spec. Grrrrr The manual says to take off the freakin' starter and wedge a screwdriver in there....is this really the only way?

 

Thanks fellas

Another newbie q'n for ya: How do you torque down the crankshaft pulley bolt w/a manual tranny w/o turning the whole crankshaft motor? Unfortunately I wasn't the one to take it off, so I don't know how to secure the crank from moving while torquing on/off. I put it in gear and it still turns a bit and prevents me from torquing it down to spec. Grrrrr The manual says to take off the freakin' starter and wedge a screwdriver in there....is this really the only way?

 

Thanks fellas

 

Pop open the inspection cover for the flywheel at the top of the bellhousing. Rotate it slowly and you will find several holes in the flywheel that you can use to secure the engine. It is kind of offset so you might have to get creative. A common backyard solution is to take a good look and drill a hole right through the bellhousing so that it lines up with the hole. Drop a screwdriver in the hole and you're all set. Then you just need to find something to plug the hole with - an oversized sheet metal screw, a rubber plug, duct tape, whatever.

Pop open the inspection cover for the flywheel at the top of the bellhousing. Rotate it slowly and you will find several holes in the flywheel that you can use to secure the engine. It is kind of offset so you might have to get creative. A common backyard solution is to take a good look and drill a hole right through the bellhousing so that it lines up with the hole. Drop a screwdriver in the hole and you're all set. Then you just need to find something to plug the hole with - an oversized sheet metal screw, a rubber plug, duct tape, whatever.

 

Thnx for the reply, Oobnuker. I might try finding that hole in the flywheel and using it, but not sure I want to drill any holes. Is it really that big a deal to remove the starter?

Or can someone offer up any other solution? thanks everyone.

Thnx for the reply, Oobnuker. I might try finding that hole in the flywheel and using it, but not sure I want to drill any holes. Is it really that big a deal to remove the starter?

Or can someone offer up any other solution? thanks everyone.

 

Removing the starter is not a big deal at all really, but it's another 1/2 hour or so of fumbling around that you don't need to do. Two bolts and it's out - it's just a matter of getting to them. The lower one can be a pain because the distributer, master cylinder, spare tire bracket, fuel lines, etc. all get in the way...Also remember to disconnect the battery if you haven't already or you could be in for a nice surprise down there...

 

I didn't drill the hole the first two times I did the timing belts - I took a long screw driver and bent it like a "crank" in a vise with a hammer - that works ok but this last time I just bit it and drilled and it really just makes it so damned easy. This car has so many holes in it, I figure one more surely isn't going to hurt, and it hasn't yet.

You can have somebody get in the car. Put the car in 5th gear and have them stand on the brakes while you turn it.

\

 

Awight, got the freaker. I basically did what 'Nuker said -- found that hole in the top of the flywheel, as seen through the space in the top of the bell housing. I wedged some BS ramdom tools in there and it worked like a charm. Torqued right to spec. Thanks dawg.

put the car in 4th gear...pull the ebrake up as tight as it will go...and tighten away. I usually get it about 100 ft lbs I guess...thats when it stops tightening with an 18inch breaker bar.

hmm my crank pulley is only regular ratchet tight with no problems

even with my edis timing ring on the pulley

but i also made sure the "pin" is also in the crank pulley so it sits in one of the cam sprocket holes..keeps the whole mess from slipping

when it slips the bolt comes loose

heh i have to make sure the pin is in there or else there goes my ignition timing

put the car in 4th gear...pull the ebrake up as tight as it will go...and tighten away. I usually get it about 100 ft lbs I guess...thats when it stops tightening with an 18inch breaker bar.

100? The Haynes manual says 66-79. I torqued to 70, but I guess I'll get in there and torque it some more. Hate to be cruising at 70 and have schtuff breakin' loose in there. Grrrr

Use a long braker bar and a big hammer. You can hit the breaker bar and get it plenty tight. Notice as you hit it that the bar moves further than the engine rolls (if it rolls at all) Best to do it on a compression stroke so there is more resistance.

 

Might sound kinda silly but it works great; used it on main crank pulley and flywheel. Then again I also use the starter to break that bolt free... soo maybe I'm a little crazy?