Any tips on changing spark plugs on 2000 Legacy. It's only been 68000 miles and I figured... splurge.

Anyway, looks like I need to buy a smaller size spark plug socket for the NGK plugs (not platinum @$2.09 at discountparts.com aka Liberty Subaru in NJ). They seem so far inset that it may be tricky not crossing threads as I don't get much feedback through a wrench and always relied on touch in the past. Any advice from those who have "been there, did it, bought the t-shirt"?

I have used a peice of semi-ridge surgical tubing that fits over the end of the plug and threaded it WITH ANTI-SEIZE ON IT. Good feed back from treads!!

 

 

 

Any tips on changing spark plugs on 2000 Legacy. It's only been 68000 miles and I figured... splurge.

Anyway, looks like I need to buy a smaller size spark plug socket for the NGK plugs (not platinum @$2.09 at discountparts.com aka Liberty Subaru in NJ). They seem so far inset that it may be tricky not crossing threads as I don't get much feedback through a wrench and always relied on touch in the past. Any advice from those who have "been there, did it, bought the t-shirt"?

I use one of those "T" handle sockets with the spring loaded swivel. I just stick the plug into the socket and just spin it loosely until it stops. Never any force. Never had a problem.

The driver's side access is improved by removing the screws securing the washer fluid bottle. Doesn't have to come out, just move it forward.

 

Plugs should only be torqued to 15Nm, which is basically until they provide resistance to a light grip.

 

A good spark socket has a rubber tube in it to hold the plug, add one 8 inch extension and start the plug by hand, using no lever on the end of the extension. I use a torque wrench to tighten the last stretch.

Thanks. Access is a pain having to remove the air intakes on the passenger side and I found I had to lift the washer up and out to get at the drivers side. I tightened the plugs until I felt the crush washer and then a touch more(no torque wrench). I did use the anti-seize grease and that seemed to help them slide home. The damn socket kept coming off and staying on the plug so I duct taped the bugger to the extension. I bought the T wrench but that didn't fit with all the other piping and hoses so that one goes back to Autozone. I may look for an upgrade from the $4 plug socket as the duct tape thing seems compensatory for poor engineering.

Any tips on changing spark plugs on 2000 Legacy. It's only been 68000 miles and I figured... splurge.

Anyway, looks like I need to buy a smaller size spark plug socket for the NGK plugs (not platinum @$2.09 at discountparts.com aka Liberty Subaru in NJ). They seem so far inset that it may be tricky not crossing threads as I don't get much feedback through a wrench and always relied on touch in the past. Any advice from those who have "been there, did it, bought the t-shirt"?

 

I've always used an old spark plug boot on the end of a large diameter philips screw driver, it worked very well.

I've used a short spark plug wire and hand threaded the plugs in using it. I usually use this little widget my parents stuck in my Christmas stocking ten years ago that I keep in my toolbox. I know these things must have a name, but anyway, it's just a bendable segmented plastic "stick" that holds your spark plug like a boot would on one end and the other end has a knob that you turn that twists the plug for you. It's great for tight spots. Then tighten a bit more with a ratchet/plug socket. If anybody knows what those things are called, I'd love to buy a couple of others--my wife wants one to put with her Volvo tools.

 

 

 

I've always had a problem with my spark plug socket not wanting to let go of the new plugs--and thus coming off the ratchet extension--so I usually remove the rubber from the socket after I remove the plugs so they don't give me that problem during the install.

 

I've only changed the plugs on my Legacy once since I bought the car, and it was smoother than expected. I used to own a little 4WD Honda wagon, and I hated doing anything mechanical on that car--most non-user friendly design ever...Still, there's nothing like popping the hood of some old Detroit iron where you have enough room to sit inside the engine bay with three buddies while you tinker on the engine...

to resolve the "socket stuck on plug" issue, you can shell out a few bucks for a 6" locking-end extension, makes changing plugs a breeze.

"Still, there's nothing like popping the hood of some old Detroit iron where you have enough room to sit inside the engine bay with three buddies while you tinker on the engine..."

 

Love the imagery.

 

What does a locking extension look like? I've got a few bucks to squander. As you can see I waited for 68,000 miles to change the plugs and PCV valve and amazingly, the car no longer pings with 89 octane. It's a frickin' miracle and I'm off to Lourdes.