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Problems to be aware of in a 95 legacy


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So, I just bought the 95 legacy wagon with a 120,000 miles. I want this to be my baby, and i want it to last for many moe years and many more miles. So I was hoping you guys could tell me what problems i might have? is this a good car? Also, my timing belt was changed at 61,000 miles, how more miles could I get out of my belt? Also any special car care tips I should follow?

 

And lastly, do they have a climate control panel that lights up for my car. It is a little annoying at night, when I can't see any of the bottons.

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The timing belt needs replacement every 62k miles, so that's something you need to do right away. A full timing belt "kit" will include all the followers and tensioner wheels, plus a new tensioner.

 

While you're in there, replace the rocker cover seals, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seal. At 120k miles, its time for a new water too. While that's off, you may as well put in a new thermostat.

 

Replacing the actual belt is the only essential thing, but if you want another 120k miles from this car, you should do the other things too.

 

General advice: Don't thrash the engine until it's warm, use Subaru oil and fuel filters, run Mobil 1 engine oil, Castrol for all the other fluids, and NGK "V" spark plugs. Check all the coolant hoses, including those for cabin heat, replace any that look tired.

CV joint boots are prone to rupture, especially the front axles, so check them every month or so. Once they spill their grease, your bearings won't last long.

 

Monitor your oil and coolant levels once a week, but that goes for any car!

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Wow, thanks for the advice. I just had the front axle replaced. I think I will do the timing belt and all the other good stuff, over thanksgiving break.

 

I was thinking of starting to run synthetic oil. Would you recommend this? what about that sythetic high mileage oil? And which one, 10w-30???

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Well, I run Mobil 1, 5W-50 and 0W-40. Depending on season. Both have served me well. I would hesistate to go under xW-40. Mobil 1 is now available as a 5W-40. I am going to try this next time. Castrol RS 0W-40 and Magnatec 5W-40, should also yield good results.

 

This is my advice, and it's based on using Mobil 1 for the last 14 years in various cars. No doubt someone on this board will contest me, because oil is very much a "religion" :-)

 

One thing is certain, stay away from Redline engine oil.

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Well, I run Mobil 1, 5W-50 and 0W-40. Depending on season. Both have served me well. I would hesistate to go under xW-40. Mobil 1 is now available as a 5W-40. I am going to try this next time. Castrol RS 0W-40 and Magnatec 5W-40, should also yield good results.

 

This is my advice, and it's based on using Mobil 1 for the last 14 years in various cars. No doubt someone on this board will contest me, because oil is very much a "religion" :-)

 

One thing is certain, stay away from Redline engine oil.

I would agree with Setright on running synthetic in your vehicle.

 

I have run it all my for years, my 91 wagon with synthetic got 2mpg better and much better cold start ups.

But I disagree about Redline, They have great oil and great axle, tranny gear oils.

I know Setright swears by Castrol manual tranny fluid, but here in the US it cost nearly $30 per quart and Redline is $7.

Most of the racers I know run redline everything and it works great.

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I just tried Redline a few weeks ago. My car now suffers piston slap at start-up.

 

I even drained the Redline and re-filled with Mobil 1, which has dampened the noise, but it's still not gone. Redline = Piston Slap

 

My car never did this before, hitting 60k miles now.

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I just tried Redline a few weeks ago. My car now suffers piston slap at start-up.

From what i have read, redline is more for racers. So the oil does not do as good of a job at lower temperatures. It is designed for high speed hence "redline" driving. So i would not imagine it is good for everyday use, just when you want to race...i guess.

 

Also between 5W-50 and 0W-40, which one is better for which season. I am in san francisco where it is fairly cool all year around. I figure i could run winter oil, all the time...maybe?

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From what i have read, redline is more for racers. So the oil does not do as good of a job at lower temperatures. It is designed for high speed hence "redline" driving. So i would not imagine it is good for everyday use, just when you want to race...i guess.

 

Also between 5W-50 and 0W-40, which one is better for which season. I am in san francisco where it is fairly cool all year around. I figure i could run winter oil, all the time...maybe?

I have never heard anything bad about their oil from anyone before. I have run their tranny/diff lubs for years and swear by them. The shop I get them from also has a large number of subaru clubs in the area that run all Redline.
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I have never heard anything bad about their oil from anyone before. I have run their tranny/diff lubs for years and swear by them. The shop I get them from also has a large number of subaru clubs in the area that run all Redline.

That is good for me to know. I will look more into it. thanks.

 

Do you know if the 95 legacy has OBD 2 or OBD 1? My understanding was cars after 96 has OBD 2, but I am not sure.

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The timing belt needs replacement every 62k miles, so that's something you need to do right away. A full timing belt "kit" will include all the followers and tensioner wheels, plus a new tensioner.

 

While you're in there, replace the rocker cover seals, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seal. At 120k miles, its time for a new water too. While that's off, you may as well put in a new thermostat.

 

Replacing the actual belt is the only essential thing, but if you want another 120k miles from this car, you should do the other things too.

 

General advice: Don't thrash the engine until it's warm, use Subaru oil and fuel filters, run Mobil 1 engine oil, Castrol for all the other fluids, and NGK "V" spark plugs. Check all the coolant hoses, including those for cabin heat, replace any that look tired.

CV joint boots are prone to rupture, especially the front axles, so check them every month or so. Once they spill their grease, your bearings won't last long.

 

Monitor your oil and coolant levels once a week, but that goes for any car!

I would add that you should change the oil pump and/or seals while you are in there.

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In regards to the Redline oil,I know a mechanic that also races rally in a WRX that would rather pour the oil down the drain then use it i his cars or customers,same goes for an Evo specialist I met.Not overly fond of it.

 

Pfft special oil for the 95,mines been getting mid range stuff for ages and didnt get an oil change for a full year or service,its running a treat,never misses a beat and serves me well.

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Pfft special oil for the 95,mines been getting mid range stuff for ages and didnt get an oil change for a full year or service,its running a treat,never misses a beat and serves me well.

See, I just want my car to run well, and strong for a long time. So i get worried as to what oils to use and what to do to keep it in tip top shape.

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  • 1 year later...

'95s are solid cars- Bought my first one with 111,000 and drove it until selling it at 211,000, replacing O2 and knock sensors, a ball joint, and having the brakes done at 160,000. My speedo sensor went weird for a bit around 122,000, the dealership said they "cleaned" it, they said I had a oil leak that dripped oil onto it, wanted $600 bucks to fix, I said no thanks. The odometer was off 1,000 miles, but I never had another ocurrence with the speedo, ever. Bought it from a mailman, who used it on his rural route, so it was definitely used. I sold it for a '99 obw with 28,500 on it, I haven't had any problems thus far, having 80,000. But I missed my '95 some much that I just bought another one for my wife with 99,000. It now has 113,000, I just replaced the water pump that the dealership managed to mess up 10,000 miles ago, I think it was the gasket and not the pump though. The separator plate seeps oil also, this is common for these cars, the plate is made of plastic, not metal, go figure it would leak sooner or later. Either way, I just watch my oil and drive like an old man, I am excited to see how many miles we can get out of this engine. You bought a solid engine and tranny.

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I have a '95 as well, so I can tell you what I've run into.

 

Someone posted info about replacing the light bulbs in the heating/cooling console, so you might be able to find it if you search. Mine does not light up either, but it looked like the fix would take a couple of hours, so I just have lived with it.

 

Follow the fuel filler pipe from where you put the gas in, to back behind the wheel. As it gets to it's lowest point, there is a plastic shield underneath the pipe. Make sure that it is cleaned out, otherwise, dirt and sand pile up in there and eat away at the pipe, causing it to leak gas.

 

Look up info about the "ABS buzzing". If your ABS light is ever on, or you hear a faint buzzing noise coming from the engine compartment, you'll need to either tap on the ABS relay, or disconnect the wiring harness. I've had this happen a couple of times, and I've meant to replace the relay, but never have. Probably happens once a year or so.

 

Also, the fuel sender sensors can get corroded and cause the fuel tank indicator to be inaccurate. Someone posted info about cleaning, but again, I just live with it, rezero the trip odometer at every fill-up and drive for 300 miles before filling up again. The low fuel light still works on mine, so I know if I've gotten real low.

 

Good luck!

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So, I just bought the 95 legacy wagon with a 120,000 miles. I want this to be my baby, and i want it to last for many moe years and many more miles.

 

Also any special car care tips I should follow?

 

I've got two '95 Legacy sedans. Rear wheel bearings are somewhat prone to failure.

 

I replaced a steering rack after 174k do to massive slop (previous owners must have beat on it). The rack on the other car is not perfect, but not worth my time to replace (130k miles).

 

I'd do the pry test on the ball joints. The more there's movement, the more they're worn.

 

Regular oil changes are ideal. The tick of death can result from irregular intervals.

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