elmwood22

I have a 2007 Subaru Outback and the airbag light has been coming on intermittently for the past 12-18months; Having visited with the local area service manager he said more than likely it is a error code as a result from an open circuit coming from the sensor on/near the roof. Can anyone shed light on this matter? And also, are others having this same issue?

I have a question for a select few; Is it possible to fit 3 car seats, be it a baby seat, and two toddler car seats, in the back of a 2007 Subaru Outback. We have a third baby coming this fall, and really do not want to give up the AWD of a Subaru for a minivan- not trying to slight minivans. Has anyone had success with fitting 3 car seats? If so, what brand of car seat, and what type of arrangement was used? Any and all information is appreciated. Thanks in advance......hopefully:)

The clicking is a CV axle, just monitor it; it may last a few hundred miles or thousands. The less acceleration around a corner on that particular axle the better. The climate control light is a small bulb, it costs about 3-5 bucks at the local parts shop, if I remember correctly. Installation is a little tricky, but I would imagine you are up to the task. Good purchase by the way, I have had two 1995 Legacy L Wagons, traded the first with 211,000 and have a second with 193,000., shooting for 300,000, time will tell. Normal wear and tear, but no major mechanical issues for either car.

Well the '95 2.2L is still rockin w/ only 188K on it; runs like a champ!!! Replaced the following: PCV valve- check Fuel Filter- check Spark Plugs-check Plug wires- on order from Jamie the subaru guru. Making an appt. to have the differentials and transmission fluids serviced-then check; When replacing the plugs last night the old plugs had roughly 55K miles on them (minor oversight in not replacing them sooner) w/ gaps ranging from .5-.55 hundreths, amazingly the car still ran great; now she is much more smoother in accelerating. As long as I don't hit any deer, I am hoping she gets me another 100K. Time will tell. Got love the 2.2L non-interferences; why did they stop manufacturing such engines; they are fail safe....... Have a good day all.

Thinking of replacing the struts in my 1995 legacy wagon, 156k.....just wondering if I should or need to replace all four or could I get away with replacing just the "problem child" or "children". For some reason, I am thinking I may need to replace all for at once due to the AWD, not sure if this is true. If someone could shed some light on the matter I would appreciate it. Also, what brands would you recommend? Something durable but not extremely expensive. Thanks.

I had this same issue with my '95 legacy, turned out to be the caliper(s). You stated the piston on the caliper slides/moves right? On the caliper there are=a rubber boots located on the top and bottom with a cylinder that slides back and forth inside. The brake caliper bolts slide through this portion of the caliper, which should slide freely. Hope this helps. It is possible the rotors are not the correct size......food for thought.

The sport shift on these vehicles allows for higher rpms to be maintained while not downshifting, thus optimizing the performance of the 4EAT. I usually don't drive in sport, I just shift to sport when passing someone....It is amazing the difference it makes. If you make the purchase, have fun with the '05. They are great cars.

How many miles on the engine? You get what you pay for.......OEM

Never used the cv boot repair kit, but I am currently conducting an ad lib experiment on the durability of Subarus CV joints. My drivers side outer boot has been torn for over 3500 miles, no clicks or anything....that being said I have a replacement axle I purchased from M?E in CO. It rides along at all times.....I feel embarrassed in telling the story, I just haven't had time to replace the axle. My two cents.

I have always wanted one of the SUS's, they are sharp cars...I found this one listed on craigslist in MN. Really low miles...gotta wonder who has been driving it. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ctd/827107576.html

Your not completely out of luck. You can do one of two things from my experiences. One, If it is a Yakima rack, you should be able to use the lock core key used to insert the lock cores to remove the locks and replace with new cores (~$40). It is a key that is not cut.etched out, but straight on both edges, this is used to insert the cores. Two, if the previous owner can remember the key # of the key itself you can order a new set....I am guessing this won't be the case since he can't remember where he put the set of keys in the first place. Just talk to a rack dealer, they will help resolve your issue. Good luck.

My inclination tells me a tire is feathered. Take your hand and rub it over the tread on your tires, specifically the tire where the noise is coming from, if it is feathering, also known as uneven wear, and represented by bumps on the tread, this is most likely your culprit. This has happened to a couple of my car's tires, never a problem just an annoyance.

MWE is going to charge $75 for the remanufactured axle ($95 for new if you want to go that route, guy said they both last about the same) and $25 for shipping. They usually wave the core charge....just send the old axle back. $100 for a remanufactured axle, labor free, a little swearing extra.

I have had no problems with a craftsman deep well thinned walled socket.....place the socket in the plug well--> attach your 3in extension--> attach rachet and remove plug. Do in reverse to put in new plug, just take care when threading the plug not to cross thread the hole. I have done this numerous times with success. Good luck.

Having just found a completely torn outer boot on the driverside cv axle I pose a question: Do I pull the axle and replacing the inner and outer boot, but no other components, except for grease? OR Do I pull the axle and replace with a remanufactured axle? I am kind of strapped for cash. The car is 95 legacy wagon w/ 139k.

With the Fram oil filter that is. I know many of you fellow USMB members despise Fram oil filters but I have never had one fail or any other issues for that matter with these types of oil filters. I have run many in my suby's one making it to 212k before selling it and not one issue. Well, today I decided to change oil on my 95 legacy wagon, that of which runs like a top, I just got 31.1 mpg on the latest road trip. I have been averaging 29-31 mpg, I love it. Sorry about the tirade, but I am happy with the mileage. Anyways, For the last month or so I couldn't remedy my HLA from sticking causing the dreaded but loved tick, tick, tick from the valves. I tried seafoaming which dampened the noise but did not resolve the issue. So today, I told myself I am buying a purolator oil filter, (which I believe is the same as a genuine subaru, just purolator, if that makes any sense) to see if this will fix it and..................Wa La or however you spell it, I was tickled pink. So having remedied the one problem I did end up finding another, the damn outer cv boot on the driverside axle is split all the way around. I noticed the boots were starting to crack/dry rot, maybe the heavy ran we received with me driving through it did it in. Could someone give me some feedback on MWE remanufactured cv axles? I was thinking about replacing just the outer boot, but my inner will probably fail making for a upset DIY mechanic. The axle doesn't make any noises. But for peace of mind I would like to replace the axle. Thanks.

Have you tried balancing the tires?

Has the PVC valve ever been changed? I have read that it can cause issues with excessive pressure in the engine causing the engine to both "use" oil and blow seals......the PVC valve is cheap and easy to change, plus it should only help with performance.

I hate to ask.....but who did the last oil change?

I am with nipper on the use of seafoam. Used it on two of my subies, in the gas tank, thru the PCV valve and the engine oil (just for a brief period, approx. 1k) never a problem. Cars ran better with even a little more get up and go.......with 4 squirrels under the hood how much get up and go do you really have? I have had success with seafoam just add as directed. On my '95 it has freed the imfamous sticky lifter, can you say tick, tick, tick, tick. Good luck.

To each there own I guess!!! Do you have any brake noise such as squeeking, etc....then again what brakes don't make noises from time to time.

Are the lifetime guaranteed pads ceramic? How often do you go through pads? From what I have been told you want to stay away from ceramic pads.

I do apogize for having offended any Canadians with the "Made in Canada" remark. I was just curious as to where Subaru manufactures some of there parts. Again, my apologies.....

I am a bit confused, I exchanged my '99 rotors, which had Fuji Industry labels on the box(I am assuming made in Japan), at a Subaru Dealership, for '95 rotors. However, I did not notice the missing label on their box until I was home replacing the rotors......home is almost 2hrs away. I guess I was assuming that me being at a Subaru dealer I would be receiving genuine subaru parts.....There is a part #, the Subaru name, and made in canada stamped on the back side of the rotor.......was I had? Are some Subaru components made in Canada and still considered genuine subaru? Can someone explain this?

Just wondering if someone would do a brake job for a friend of mine in the Seattle, WA area. He owns 94 Legacy Wagon with 165+k on it, runs great, but is in dire need of a brake job......Rotors,pads,etc. He can pay a shop to do the work, but will get screwed on labor....the work is pretty simple, and also pretty dirty. He is quite capable of assisting but doesn't have the place to perform the work. Would anyone be willing to help in the Seattle area? PM me if you think you may be able to assist. He would pay for the parts and a fee for labor, just nothing outrageous. Thanks