elmwood22

I believe your supposed to compress the adjuster the same way that it is situated or mounted to your engine. Mounted vertically, compress vertically, mounted horizontally, compress horizontally. Remember to compress it very slowly. Good Luck.

Is it AWD??? That is a sweet machine.

Being that your car is a sedan, it doesn't have a roof rack. Meaning you can't get a low-rider assembly roof rack, much easier. This attaches to the factory rack. If I am not mistaken, your Q53 clips should be towers that attach into the rain gutter system of the car. Check and make sure that the clips are the proper make for your sedan. A lot of the time, some models seem close to fitting but they don't and can't because they are the improper model. Also, are you Q clips in the correct position before attaching them to the roof. Meaning are they fully open? Are other pieces in the correct position, etc. Good luck.

To the people who feel you can ask for a lower price on a car because of a possible head gasket failure.......Get over it!!!!!! It may be a problem, it may not be. But you can't assume that it will fail, and therefore ask for a deduction in price, this makes no sense. Good I got that off my chest. Anyways, If the timing belt has been changed, along with any leaking seals, along with fresh fluids all the way around............it may check out and be a good deal. It is on the high end of the price range on this year car!!!

Most likely the stealership, oops, I mean dealership, will look over the front end. It sounds to me like you may have a shot tie-rod and/or ball joint. You can have the car aligned as many times as you would like, but with something else loose in the front end, it won't stay aligned. Good luck.

I have owned two 95 legacy wagons- bought the first one from a mail carrier with 111k, sold it with 210K- it still ran like a champ. Drove it all over and never once did I worry about it breaking down. I did replace a few sensors (knock & o2), front right ball joint, a front left wheel bearing and brakes, all of which is common for a mail carrier car that saw nothing but gravel for sometime- I changed all fluids when recommended and not one problem. Bought my second one last feb. with 99k, I haven't had to replace any sensors, brakes, or ball joints, but the water pump did go- replaced it myself and haven't had a problem sense with it. This year car and a few others leak/seep oil from the oil separator plate (search this on the board, plenty of info) the car I have does seep, but I haven't had to add oil before changing it every 3000 miles. I don't really see this a problem yet. Check for oil on the y-exhaust pipe under the car, this will tell a little. Also, look at the rear diff for seepage. You will be due for a few items, such as, timing belt, water pump, replacement at 105k, but this is normal. Get the car!!!!!!!

It is nice to hear that you are thinking of purchasing a subaru wagon!!! But I am curious of the Honda Accord you have. What year? How many miles? Any problems? I guess, why are you selling it? Honda's are good cars, also running for 200,000+ miles. Subarus are, for the most part, very reliable great all-weather driving vehicles. As mentioned in a previous post- the 96-99 2.5L engines have had problems with head gaskets. NOT ALL, but some. About the vehicles your looking at/possibly buying- who has owned them? what type of driving-city or highway? Make sure to have them looked over by a mechanic you trust and ask about previous work done on the vehicles. Any receipts? Are the tires in good shape? what about the brakes and fluids? Front/rear diffs,and automatic transmission. Things that may be overlooked. Good Luck!!!!

From firsthand experience- the 95 legacy and its 2.2l engine is a great car. I bought my first one with in -98 w/ 111,000miles and sold it in 03 with 211,000 miles, no problems with the engine or tranny. Minimal problems altogether- I did replace timing belt at 150,000 miles, brakes at 180,000, left valve cover gasket around the same time, (it also seeped oil from the seperator plate, common with this year, look under the front of the vehicle at the muffler y-pipe, if it has oil on it this may be the cause) 02 sensor, knock sensor, front right ball joint, and tires. I drove the hell out of this vehicle and never worried about the engine or tranny. I did notice that as I racked up the mileage with the automatic tranny that it and the car rattled while in drive or reverse, while at a stop. At 133,000 miles it suffered from torque bind, had the tranny flushed at the dealership and never dealt with it again. This is common- from what I have read it on the site, sometimes it can't be remedied this way. Luckily, the new '95 is just bought was remedied this same way- got for $3500 with 99,000miles on it. (I couldn't help myself). About your '95 Lsi, nice car with all the bells and whistles. If the mileage is 240k and not 240km at $3900 american dollars, I would say to much money. However, it is canadian and if my conversion is right, this would be around $3400 and it is 240km (150,000miles) this is a good deal. If it is 150,000 miles at $3900, this is a tad steep, but negotiable. Look at the history, timing belt, water pump, tires, brakes, moonroof, body (rust, dings, dents,etc.) Have the fluids, such as the tranny, front and rear diffs been changed recently? Good luck!

Just wondering what other owners use as shoes on their subies- 99 obw- Firestone Affinity LH30- a good all weather, high mile tire.

Neither my 99 obw 2.5l or my 95 2.2l suffers from pistion slap, however my fathers 01 obw with 65,000 on it does. It sounds like a diesel when cold, but runs smooth when warm- no other problems thus far. Question- Does pistion slap progressively get worse? Also, Does it rob the engine of horsepower? I agree that it can/ is annoying, but piston slap or not- these engines are damn good.......................most of the time, you always find a lemon somewhere.

Sounds like you did a fine job replacing the rotors and brake lines- the ceramic brake pads is where you may have made your mistake. Some say ceramic pads last a longtime, which they do, but they do tend to heat up, which may be warping your rotors. Also, how are you braking? This may cause your rotors to warp at an unusually high rate. Good luck.

My 99 obw starts fine when cold, however, when cold, like most engines, idles at about 1800-2000 rpms, until warm or when I push the gas pedal to lower the idle, this is normal. When I perform this procedure my engine will slightly cut-out, which is not normal. But for some reason it does this when cold, not when warm. I have also noticed that when I push the gas pedal down quickly, warm or cold, the engine hesitates slightly, before it can recover. Performing these procedures has never killed the engine, however I cannot stop wondering what the problem may be, if there is one. Any ideas? I have changed the plugs- and this did nothing. I would like to start simple. The vehicle has 80k. Thanks suby fanatics

My 99 obw uses about 1/2-3/4qts of oil every 3,000 miles. It currently has 80,000 miles- I first noticed the consumption with about 50,000 miles. The car does not burn oil, neither does it drip oil. Is it possible that there is some seepage, but not dripping? There is no oil smell in the engine or the car itself. I would find it hard to believe that I am using this amount of oil without noticing any dripping or burning. Does anyone else's vehicle do this?

I use Castrol 10W-30 in the summer and Castrol 5W-30 in the winter. I use to live in northern MN- subzero temps and thick oil don't mix. I would follow your owners manual for recommendations. About the oil, I run castrol, some like it some don't. Its a never-ending battle. On my first 2.2L legacy wagon I ran pennzoil, not one problem and over 200,000 miles on the engine.

In agreement with nipper on this- change fluids for a baseline. Changing the ATF usually takes care of torque bind- it has with both of my 95's anyway. How many miles, and what type of condition is the car in?

'95s are solid cars- Bought my first one with 111,000 and drove it until selling it at 211,000, replacing O2 and knock sensors, a ball joint, and having the brakes done at 160,000. My speedo sensor went weird for a bit around 122,000, the dealership said they "cleaned" it, they said I had a oil leak that dripped oil onto it, wanted $600 bucks to fix, I said no thanks. The odometer was off 1,000 miles, but I never had another ocurrence with the speedo, ever. Bought it from a mailman, who used it on his rural route, so it was definitely used. I sold it for a '99 obw with 28,500 on it, I haven't had any problems thus far, having 80,000. But I missed my '95 some much that I just bought another one for my wife with 99,000. It now has 113,000, I just replaced the water pump that the dealership managed to mess up 10,000 miles ago, I think it was the gasket and not the pump though. The separator plate seeps oil also, this is common for these cars, the plate is made of plastic, not metal, go figure it would leak sooner or later. Either way, I just watch my oil and drive like an old man, I am excited to see how many miles we can get out of this engine. You bought a solid engine and tranny.

I am in agreement with the rotors being cheap, but why not turn them for $8-12 bucks if you can. Depending upon how one brakes, they can last a longtime. I guess some may call me cheap, I would like to think economic.

My 99 outback has the same issue- it vibrated when it had 28,500 miles on it and it still vibrates with 80,000. I have brought it to a dealership, they said most likely it was a misfire- it didn't notice any lack of power or decreased gas mileage. I said the hell with it, and drive it. I am beginning to think this year engine just does this. My friends 99 outback does the same thing also.

I am in agreement with the speedo sensor. I had a 95 legacy that did the same thing, causing the odometer to be off by about a 1000 miles. It happened when the car had 122,000 miles, the dealership cleaned the sensor (apparently there was oil dripping on to the sensor causing it to short out) anyway never had a problem with it after that, driving the car until I sold it with 211,000 miles. Not to sure how much it would cost to fix it, sorry. I would think that something of this nature would pop up a code on the dealer's computer.

Replaced the pump with ease, didn't have a crankshaft wrench, but found a way around it. Seems to have taken care of the coolant leak thus far. Hopefully, the pump lasts and the gasket forms a good seal. I think the gasket on the last pump leaked, it seemed as though the last dealership didn't clean the connecting surface, there was some definite corrosion/rough surface. I guess time will tell.

Yes, the water pump is leaking. The timing belt was replaced at 90,000, currently the car has 112,000 on it. I was planning on leaving the belt. Also, how much do the other parts cost. Where should I purchase them? We have a auto parts and auto center, are these places reliable for purchasing those other seals?

I bought a 99 outback with 28,500miles in Oct. 03 and it currently has 80,000 miles on it. I have driven all over out west, oregon, washington, utah, colorado, wyoming, montana,north dakota, south dakota and now we are driving to minnesota in march. We haven't had any problems with it thus far. I have replaced the tires, changed oil every 3,000 miles, changed ATF, awd, and front and rear diffs fluid, replacing with synthetic about 20,000miles ago, it is almost due for another change. I enjoy it. I bought this car after selling a 95 legacy wagon with 211,000 miles- I often wonder how many more miles on it. I enjoyed and trusted this car so much that I bought another with 99,000 miles on it. I plan on replacing the water pump on it soon. It also has a rear main leak, it currently seeps, it worries me, but I check the oil religously and it is fine. I plan on driving this until it no longer runs, I am hoping to get 250,000+ out of it. Both 95 suffered from torque binding, I had the dealership change the ATF and awd system fluids and it took care of it. It first occurred in the original 95 I owned at 135,000miles, I never had a problem with it after that.

Ellensburg- We own a 99 outback w/ 79,500miles and a 95 legacy wagon w/ 112,000. I will be installing another water pump into it this weekend, the previous one to a crap with a little over a 10,000 miles on it- I was not happy. So, far so good with the outback, who knows, I have read some interesting posts here and else where about those engines. Is it true that SOA has a 8yr/100,000 mile warranty, from the manufacture date, on the head gaskets for phase I engines? Have a good day

Having read the chiltons manual on replacing the water pump on this year car, I am left wondering what is it not telling me? It says to drop the oil pan, is this necessary? Also, about the timing belt- it was replaced at 90,000 miles, the car currently has 112,000miles I am not planning on replacing the belt, but do I have to be careful on leaving it in its current position? What else should I be looking for/ or replacing when I am in there? I don't want to spend a fortune replacing parts, but I do understand preventative maintenance. Any advice would be much appreciated. J

Hey y'all, I am new b living in washington and looking forward to getting a few questions up shortly. thanks