elmwood22

So I before I sold my 99 outback I had a set of rotors that I purchased but never ended up installing....will these rotors fit onto my 95 legacy? If I remember correctly the 99 had 15' wheels while my 95 has 14'....does the size of the wheel matter? Does a larger wheel mean a larger rotor? This would just save me from having to deal with exchanging the parts at a Subaru dealership.

My brother-in-law owns a '99 legacy wagon with just over 100k. Car ran like a top until a couple of days ago when the car itself started to turn over really slow when being started. His conclusion, the battery could use replacing, logical. So he purchased a new battery, problem solved?........NO!!!! Now he is having an issue with blowing the fusible link. Initially when he put the battery in all the dashboard lights, radio, etc worked, then he goes to turn the fan on and wham he blew the fuse. Any ideas? What size amp is the fusible link? I am assuming the link itself is the fuse, I have never had to deal with anything like this. Could the alternator be sending a bad current or something? Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

what about cleaning the mating surfaces? Thoughts?

Haven't done a whole lot of searching but.......is there a trick when replacing the valve covers on a '95 2.2L? Upfront it looks pretty straight forward especially the passenger side, but on the driverside it looks like the oil dip stick housing may cause a problem, em, em, not a problem but make it a little more complex. (Possibly mistaken, I have been before) Also, what type of gasket sealant would be recommended if any. Grommets, a yes? Just trying to take care of the seepage. Thanks.

What's the VIN? and how can I get you the info? Email?

Just curious, having talked w/ a friend he says the dealership and an independent mechanic say a conditioner is needed for a 1997 2.5L. Having said that he further stated the independent used a BG super coolant conditioner in replace of the subaru conditioner. Any thoughts on this? Also, I was under the impression that subaru put the conditioner in the 2000-02 2.5L (and possibly the 2.2L) to remedy external head gasket leaks while also offering a conditional 7yr/100k warranty after the conditioner was used. Is the conditioner on the 96-99 2.5L a.......hmm, preventative maintenance task. His car has 150k on it, is in really good shape, both physically and mentally, I mean mechanically.

Car has a salvaged title

We purchased the car from Miller Hill Subaru in Duluth, MN. I just got off the phone with the dealer and they confirmed/verified I have the 3yr/36k bumper to bumper and the 5yr/60k on the powertrain. Thanks for the heads up!! When we purchased the vehicle the salesman was adamant about the vehicle still being under warranty. Had they sold me the car knowing it didn't have the warranty, but still said it did, there would have been hell to pay. Anyways, all is well in MN.

I thank everyone for the feedback.....even the not so good news you don't want to hear. That being said...... I made the purchase of the former rental w/ 19,000miles for just over $15k. The Carfax report came back clean, it comes w/ the standard 3yr/36k bumper to bumper & the 5yr/60k powertrain warranties. I decided to forgo the extended warranty, I hope that decision does not come back to bite me in the rear. I will say "Sorry Nipper" but who is going to be the sorry one in the long run if this doesn't work out. The car drives and handles like it is new. The exterior has a small nick on the drivers side door, but no dings or flaws other than that. The interior is very clean with a few light pink spots on the rear passenger floor, (there the "you have to search in order to find types of spots) The engine compartment as well as all of the fluids are clean and smelling normal, no burnt smells of any sort. The engine makes no odd or weird noises either. Just had the auto-start installed, soon it will be the block heater. Averaged 29.2 mpg on the way home from the dealer. I will keep everyone tuned in.

Just looking for thoughts on buying a car that was once a rental. I have my skepticisms, but it is also a suby. Anyways, I stumbled upon an immaculate 2007 Outback w/ 19,000 on the odometer. I carfaxed the VIN and it came up as a rental in Alabama, which explains the 19,000 miles in 10 months. Thoughts, feelings would be appreciated.

'95 Legacy wagon 212k on original HGs-sold '99 OBW, 107k on original HG Another '95 legacy wagon w 130k on Original HG

I have the same issue, with the exact same year and model. I have had the car since 28k (it did it at this mileage) and it now has 106k (it still does it), put this on in 4yrs and never a problem. Great buy and enjoy.

You say this engine has 70k on it, while the car as a whole has 130k, right? The mileage really isn't too big of a worry, I would be more concerned as to why the tranny has a delay before going into gear, it may be that it is on its way out, or it could be an electrical issue that has not been addressed causing the delays. What type of shape is the vehicle in overall? Is it clean, little cosmetic problems on the inside and out? Or is it beat to hell? What about the tires, do they match? How does it drive? Do the brakes pulse when being applied? Also, drive in figure-8's to check for torque bind,(the rear will hop/jerk if present, this can usually be fixed with a tranny flush, I would recommend per the delay already) Does the current owner have the service records? One more thing, it sounds like this engine was replaced once before, you should find out what type of replacement was used and if the engine replaced was due to head gasket failure. Most likely this was the case. All is fine and dandy with that, but if they replaced the old engine with an identical they never solved the head gasket issue, they may have just prolonged it. You need to replace the gasket itself if it fails. You'll will find that the "HG" issue is well versed in this website. If you find that the car checks out- $1000 is a great deal, even if you have to replace a tranny. If you are mechanically inclined hop at this one. I am an owner of a 99 outback, 96k and going strong, never one problem, this car has taken many a road trips and it has never once left me or my wife on the side of the road. Good luck

Hey Everyone, How is this 6-cylinder engine and its longevity/reliability? I would imagine a lot more zip compared to the stock 2.5L. Any major problems to be aware of? I have read about issues w/ the timing chain, what types of issues are these? I have a friend looking very seriously at this car. The dealership is asking $16,900 w/ 85k. They are willing to include news tires, and a fluid flush'n'fill. I believe she going to get a 2yrs/20k warranty(I don't have the details on what the warranty covers). I thought it was a decent idea, not sure on the extra cost for it though. You would hope the dealership would have a morals and assist a recent customer if something would happen to go wrong. I am not sure if it is a VDC (maybe they all come w/ VDC in these years and thereafter). The KBB is $16,200.

Nipper, the first pump was a rebuilt from Coredone. The second was a new pump manufactured by Signature Series. I understand that there is a possibility that both pumps may seep coolant from the weep hole, but I find it highly unlikely that two pumps in less than 24 months would do this, even if they aren't genuine subaru. I know the weep hole is not visible , so I am not 100% sure, the leak looks like it is from the bottle seal of the pump. I am wondering if a stop leak may be the solution?

Great question nipper. When I had the dealership install the first water pump, they installed a pump that says Japan on the side of it. I know I sound like an rump roast saying that, but can I assume this is a subaru water pump manufactured in japan? Other than that I have no idea where they get their pumps. I did contact them about the the initial leak last year and they sent me another pump. I do have the pump they installed, I was supposed to send it back to them.....never did. I also have the box and order # of the pump they sent to me (2nd pump, which I installed). I think I will be doing some tracking of this pump. Any other ideas?

Last year at this time my friend and I replaced a leaky water pump on my 95 legacy wagon, not sure if it was the pump or gasket, but replaced the pump and gasket to cover our bases. This was the second time the water pump had been replaced in less than a year. The first time I had paid for the repair out of my pocket and was a little upset when it started to leak. I got ahold of the dealership and they replaced the water pump no questions, just didn't want to pay me for the labor. OK. We then went on to install the pump tightening all bolts according to specs. Finished the job and no leak. So for the past 11-12months I was feeling pretty good, then last month I noticed coolant leaking onto the snow and thought the worse. This will be the 3rd pump in less than 24 months. I am beginning to think that the pump isn't bad but the gasket didnn't seed correctly. The coolant is leaking from the same spot as the last time. Placing yourself directly below and looking straight up at the thermostat (feet in front of vehicle), and just to the right. It is where the pump sits next to the block, there is a little slit and this is where it is leaking. DAMN IT!!! Any thoughts? Bad pump, bad gasket? I would think that I would have to replace the pump and gasket again just to make sure. The last time I replaced it I did not use any sealants. I was under the impression that I was not supposed to.

These guys are right on- separator plate or rear main seal on the first pic, both are what I like to call "livable" leaks as long as oil leakage isn't copious. Both my EJ22 and EJ25 leak a little oil from that same area. But I am glad to say that I haven't seen any seepage as of late. Just watch your oil level and everything will be fine.

Looking at this outback, just want to make sure it is clean. If someone could run this thru for a carfax report I would appreciate it. VIN 4S3BG6854X7648093 THANKS elmwood22@msn.com

Hello everyone, Looking into getting the rotors and pads replaced on my 1995 legacy l wagon in the next few weeks. Just wondering what you know of brembo rotors. Any thoughts on 'em? I found these at 1/3 less than the oems. Also, what types or make of rotor are subaru oems? Japan? I plan on replacing the front and rear pads, while turning the rear and replacing the front rotors. This should take care of the slight vibration/shimmy when braking at 55-60mph. Also, I am looking for a "good" rotor and pads, something that will last. I am not hard on brakes so I am hoping to get 60-80k out of them after getting them replaced. In the past this is what I have gotten out of my brakes. Thanks

4S3 BK6654 T7308311 I am looking at a 1996 Legacy Lsi wagon 128,330 miles, leather, looks clean,.......... but I would like to know a little more Any help would be great. You could send the report to elmwood22@msn.com Thanks again

Look at it this way. You still have three good tires, correct? Sell the three at a slight discount, being that they have 10k on them you should get some good money for them. Also, what type of mileage tire are they, this would aid in getting more money for them? Then go and purchase 4 new tires for your suby. Problem solved. You figure a decent set of tires will run anywhere from $350-550. At least by selling the remaining three you could help your cause.

Thanks everyone. I am not doing any preemptive HG replacement. I to follow the golden rule- "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I will watch the oil leak closely, maybe it will close its self off. Who knows. Thanks again.

My wife and I bought our 99 Outback 2.5L DOHC with 28,000miles in 2003, it now has 86,000miles and we have not had one problem with it. I have been completing happy with our subaru. However, around 55,000 miles it starting to use oil, not burn it, but use it. :-\ Me being anal about everything, kept an eye on the dip stick as well as the under carrage for seeping/leaking oil. I have always washed the underside of my car, I figured this way I would know when something started to leak. I began to notice that the rear of the oil pan had oil on it as well as the components around it, but still no oil dripping on to the concrete. The other day I just noticed what looked to be like dried oil with dust/grime adhered from the right side of the timing belt cover on the bottom (this looking down at the engine). Is this a sign of cam seals seeping? Now with 86,000miles it has started to drip oil onto the concrete, in my eyes excessively and annoyingly. To give you an idea of consumption, I am usually 1/2-1 quart low when I change oil. Anyways, with the current mileage the vehicle will soon be ready for a timing belt, water pump, oil pump resealing and the other seals that are recommended with this procedure. (105K)????? I guess my question is, should I pull the engine (not an easy task for an individual that has never performed this) and take care of the entire task? Which would include the Rear main and oil seperator along with the timing belt, water pump,etc. Or should I just take care of the front end and watch the oil level closely, save money and have a transmission shop drop the tranny later to replace the rear main and oil seperator plate? I am not really looking forward on pulling an engine, whereas I feel a lot more comfortable working on the front engine, especially since you can perform the work with the engine mounted. Sorry this is so long guys, any advice would be much appreciated. ONE GRIPE WITH SOA- who the hell puts a plastic plate between an engine and transmission? IDIOTS. Thanks.

Flush the Tranny and differentials, get 4 new tires and be on your way. Look at it this way, your going to have to get 4 new tires anyway. I also had a dealership tell me that I needed the same work done to my 95 legacy with 133,000 miles, only to find out by a honest dealership that by flushing the tranny and differentials would take care of it. IT DID. I sold the car with 210,000miles. Do the small things first, its only $100-150 bucks, much cheaper than $1200 they want for their work.