"Not sure if this helps, but there is a two wire device with vacuum lines running to it- it was clicking about every 1.5 seconds- has a black round cap(?) that can be rotated- on left side of engine on top of intake manifold just to the right of the front left cylinder."

 

WARNING WILL ROBINSON ALERT ALERT:

Would the device with the vacuum lines and electrical wires be the EGR solenoid and could that be the culprit????????

I don't see how that could prevent the injector from getting fuel into the engine.

 

I am assuming this relay is for the fuel cannister to send excess fuel back to the tank.

I checked my manual for the resistance value. It stated that it should read between .5 and 2 ohms. So perhaps yours is ok. I still don't understand what the other coil is for unless it is for some sort of feedback signal to the ECU. Again, the injector in my manual only has one pair of wires to it.

 

Another thing my manual mentions I was unaware of is the vehicle specification code. My manual only shows codes up to four. A fifth one may have been added later. This code will basically come on when there are no other codes in memory.

I don't know if it is the EGR valve- the lines are kind of small for an EGR valve- 1/4 diameter max- but what ever it is it is clicking when the key is on- you can hear it and feel it.

 

1 line comes out the top and runs over to a canister in the front left corner of the engine compartment (viewed as facing the engine). The other line comes out the back (with electrical solenoig in the middle) and "t"s into the block intake manifold and continues on to another canister at the left rear of the engine compartment and then a hose coming out of that canister and running across the firewall to the other side somewhere.

Sub.

It sounds to me that it is the purge valve relay but I'm not sure. This won't effect the injector.

One other thing to check is make sure there are no blown fuses. Have you done that?

Yes- No blown fueses!

I assume you saw my post #28 about the resistance value of the injector. I would now see if the pulses are getting to the injector. It sounds like you have an analog meter which will help show the pulses if they are there. Place the probes across the coil leads that showed the low resistance and the cable attached to the injector and see if the voltage fluctuates while cranking the engine. If you don't see any change then something is not working in the control box.

I have a battery-operated handheld VOM, a Bench DVM (or DMM) and a 4 channel O'scope. In looking for pulses, wouldn't the scope be better? Or can I get by with the VOM? The reason I ask is, I have had my VOM plugged into the low resistance leads and measured voltage while cranking (but not connected to the injector) and measured a constant 5vdc- your saying I need a load to see the pulses? Could I drop a resistor across the leads and maybe see the same results? If so, what value would you recommend? 100,1K, 10K or something else? Or do I really need to hook the Injector into the circuit?

 

Sub.

Yes, a scope would be better to see the pulses. It's just that not many people have one on hand or know how to use one so I didn't think about it. By all means use it if you would like to. You shouldn't need to have the injector tied to the lead to watch for the pulses. Since I don't know what the second set of higher resistance leads are for I thought it may be good to leave them in the circuit. Having them disconnected may change the test results.

 

It sounds though that the ECU is not generating the pulses to open the injector. I think the ECU makes a ground connection to turn on the injector. The ECU needs to see the ignition pulses from the distributor to do this I believe. It may also need to see the signal from the crank angle sensor.

 

I'm not sure what lead carries the ignition signal to the ECU but you may be able to find it using the ohmmeter. It would also be good to check the crank angle sensor signal also. The sensor is located near the flywheel I think.

Can you post the diagram that you have or email it to me at scottyd9@nventure.com. I appreciate your help.

My first post ( I had the edit it already)..I hope it helps If you have a library close by,use it's automotice reference section..chances are they will have what you need and you can make copies. I can't think of how many times the library has saved me.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/

The above link (courtesy of Moderator Legacy777) is for a variety of FSM including electrical for 92. Might be of help. I wish these type documents could be gathered together and made available more obviously in Repair and Mods or under their own heading! Santa, are you still around?

Thanks for the link. Info was interesting and might become useful. Unfortunately,actual info can't be posted to a site. But guys like you get it around. For that you get my first post on this site. roy

I checked my manual for the resistance value. It stated that it should read between .5 and 2 ohms. So perhaps yours is ok. I still don't understand what the other coil is for unless it is for some sort of feedback signal to the ECU. Again, the injector in my manual only has one pair of wires to it.

 

Another thing my manual mentions I was unaware of is the vehicle specification code. My manual only shows codes up to four. A fifth one may have been added later. This code will basically come on when there are no other codes in memory.

Thanks for the ohm info. Most injectors don't read that low but your info confirms my 93 injector is OK. Also my ECU flashes 5 times when there are no other codes.

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