Hi there! I'm new to the board and will certainly be a regular. I bought my RX in 92 w/40000 mi. It now has 206+K miles and I would like to put another 100K on it. My problem is this - about 9 months ago it was in a minor collision (crumpled front left fender). When I finally got around to getting it drivable again it wouldn't turnover. I replaced the battery, still no luck. I got out my v/o tester and determined that there is a short. I hoped it might be in the starter motor. Checked that & no problem. Checked the wire that goes from the +cable to the fusible links and found its shorted. Any ideas on where to go from here???

 

Also, I've been looking for fenders and a bumper but no one even knows what an RX is. Any thoughts for me?

Thanks,

Tomas

Hey Tomas, welcome. I have a couple RX coupes, I love 'em...

 

I can't help on the electrical issue.

 

Any fenders from a '87 to '89 (and maybe to '94) EA82, RX, DL, GL, GL-10, wagon, sedan or coupe will work and will accept your trim. The '85/'86 fenders will fit but they had glue on trim so no holes for the later style trim.

Bumpers from '87 to '94 of the same model lines will also fit. If you can't find your color, you can paint one or get one from a DL or Loyale model, they are all black.

Welcome!

Another RX owner in Colorado! Woot!

I would check the wires running to your alternator..then start disconnecting the alternator, starter, etc testing for the short each time. But I have been working 16-hour days for the last week so my advice might not be any good. I would go check Colorado Auto Parts or pull n save etc for the body parts you need.

If you get running soon we are planning on having a Colorado meet here really soon, check in the meet & greet forum for it. Let me know if you ever need help with anything. There is several of us right around....

hmmm I hope my RX is ready when the meet is... when is it by the way? I'm too lazy to go to the Meet-n-Greet...

Welcome to the good ship USMB.

 

The issue with the no crank is a common problem.

 

The first things to examine are the cable to connector

junction on all battery cables and their connection points.

 

If you are satisfied that the problem does not exist

there the ignition switch starter contacts are suspect.

 

This can be tested by running a jumper wire

from the positive battery terminal to the small spade

connector on the back of the starter.

 

If the starter turns (i.e. engine cranks)

the addition of a simple lighting relay

is the simple fix, or the addition of

an auxiliary push button.

Here is the wiring for the relay.

 

Please do not take this as a smart remark but..

I am a bit confused by your use of the word "short"

 

A "short" is a connection between two conductors that should not be connected.

This usually results in a blown fuse or melted wiring.

 

An "open" is when a conductor does not connect to another conductor.

result here is the device does not function.

 

If you mean you are seeing an open between the positive battery terminal and

the fusible link - check the spade connector where the link itself is connected.

I assume you mean the fusible link closest to the strut tower.

These do have a habit of getting corrosion in the contacts which can result

in an open circuit.

 

 

Hope this helps some.

Boy, it's nice to see Skip is back posting again.

Thanks for the great info, XSNRG. I thought that body part from some other models might work and am glad to have some confirmation.

Send me an email if you want to meet me at a shop that I am selling parts for. Its in Denver near Santa Fe and the Gates plant. There are some RX body panels in there that are a PITA to ship and would love to sell locally instead.

Thanks, DrKrazy. Who knows, we may have passed eachother here. I live in littelton and see RX's around every once in a while - even an elusive black one. I'll give your ideas a try as soon as we get another warm spell.

Thanks, Skip. When I connected the new battery and had my daughter turn the key, there was no crank or click but I did see a small spark at the + terminal (yes, they were attached correctly and were clean). I disconnected the cables and used a v/o meter to check continuity. When I found continuity between the + cable and the frame this is what I'm calling a short. I disconnected the wire that goes from the +cable to the fusible links close to the strut. The +cable was still connected to the starter motor so I check for continuity between the cable and the frame assuming that if there was continuity the starter was the problem, but there was no continuity. I then checked the wire going to the fusible links and found continuity to the frame. I removed and checked each of the links. They are all clean and sound. That's as far as I've gotten.

 

Tomas