Ok, I've got a question that's related to the greasey subject matter here.

 

We all know that Soobie electric windows tend to quit working, usually at the worst time. I believe it's usually due to oxidation/carbon arcing/burnt dust on the switch contacts. Usually, a quick brush with a wire brush on the contacts and you're back in business. So, my thought has been to cover the switch contacts with non-conductive grease to minimize the oxygen available to promote oxidation and arcing and to keep the dust away from the contact surfaces.

 

The question I'd like to put to you folks with some knowledge in this area is: Will it work?

There's a warning at the Nyo site not to use _conductive_ grease on sliding switches.

 

I think the nonconductive grease is meant for things like spark plugs that don't move (to keep the electrons inside their proper area).

 

I'd think in a sliding contact it'd be more likely to interfere, but just guessing.

 

Try google for "nyogel" if I didn't post a link earlier for their info page.

 

I'd use something like an electronics cleaner off the Radio Shack shelf -- and I have several such windows. I'd been guessing it might be dirty grounds in those switches as well -- if it's a grounding problem, you'd want

Many soob switches I have seen (lights, wiper, etc.) already have a nonconductive grease inside them from the factory - but that grease tends to react with the copper contacts and oxidizes them (I think it contains sulfur by the smell) - I had a horrible problem with my intermitent wiper setting, and found that to be the problem

 

therefore I am disinclined to use grease of any form inside switches - dielectric my be OK, but I know just any grease is not a good idea, because copper is (while a good conductor) fairly reactive

There's a warning at the Nyo site not to use _conductive_ grease on sliding switches.

They probly mean sliding dimmer switches, or any rheostat. I'm thinking that the conductive grease would cause some minor shorts and stop the dimmer from working properly. You can get contact coatings/grease but I think it's best to have a clean grease free contact so dirt/dust isn't attracted.

my 2 cents... [...I am an Industrial Electrician]

Hey KS-----Forget the nonconductive grease.

You can get contact coatings/grease but I think it's best to have a clean grease free contact so dirt/dust isn't attracted.

 

I agree. But if you insist KStretch, go dielectric.

Hey, thanks for the thoughts. I have to agree that I'm afraid the grease would just attract more dirt and dust. But, thought I'd throw that thought out there and see if maybe someone had a different opinion or experience.

 

Now, if we could just come up with a simple plan to seal the switches and surround them with dry nitrogen....... hmmmmmm. LOL

Now, if we could just come up with a simple plan to seal the switches and surround them with dry nitrogen....... hmmmmmm. LOL

Yea, that's the ticket. Why didn't I think of that?

Hmmm ... I have a liquid teflon lubricant made for bicycle chains that once it's dry is not sticky at all, unlike any oil or grease -- doesn't hold onto grit. I wonder how it'd work in electrical switches.

 

Probably somewhere out there there's a good sealed switch that'd just drop in in place of the older Subaru stock.

 

Are passenger door window switches grounded to the door metal, or do they have ground wires going back to the door master switch in the driver's door?

Hey Hank----It appears to me that the ground wire back to the switches becomes the hot wire when you hit the switch to run the window in the opposite direction.:cool:

Hmmm ... I have a liquid teflon lubricant made for bicycle chains that once it's dry is not sticky at all, unlike any oil or grease -- doesn't hold onto grit. I wonder how it'd work in electrical switches.

I'd bet teflon would stop electron flow in it's tracks.