critical_max Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Hello all, lurker going public here... I finally have a question not answered by searching the forum archives. My '86 RX has a serious charging problem. Couple weeks ago, all the idiot lights started coming on, and the voltmeter got pretty wobbly. Soon after, it wouldn't start at all. Dead. Turn key, no clicky. I'm gonna do some tests on it this weekend, check voltage from output lead under different loads. But I suspect the alternator is just toast, based on my research of the symptoms. Here's my question: What is a recommended replacement for an EA82T alternator? I know I can just go get a stock replacement, but if there is a cheaper/more reliable alternative that would be great. I've heard that rebuilt Bosch units are solid... also heard that the stock units in these cars have reliability issues. Suggestions? Or if you have a spare that works, I'd love to buy it. Rebuilding the existing alternator is another option, I guess... but probably more time than it's worth. Here in Eugene, I've been going to Gary's Subaroo Specialties and been satisfied with work done there, but I'd rather not pay $$$ for a simple part/swap job. Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 if im not mistaken look in the USRM for the GM 100A conversion, should work on your car, might be some stipulations though, give it a look anywho. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 you can also put an XT6 alternator in your car which is 90amps I think compared to 50 of the stock alternator Here's the link for the GM 100amp alternator swap: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=66 Here's the link for the XT6 alternator swap: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=46 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critical_max Posted March 4, 2005 Author Share Posted March 4, 2005 I like the GM alternator swap idea. That could be a pretty easy, cheap way to go. I should probably also mention that I was running an AC inverter from the cigarette lighter to play a boombox, prior to this failure. Didn't have a problem for quite a while, but I bet I made a mistake there. A web search on the GM alternator part number, P7157, tells me that it can be found in a 1980 Cadillac Coupe/Sedan Deville... Apparently, people swap these things into DeLoreans. Must be the "De" connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoostedBalls Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Go with the GM 1 wire. It's an easy mod and WAY cheaper replacements! Also more amps! Rebuild kits are available too, cheap! -Chuck- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[HTi]Johnson Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 Hello Critical Max. I live in Eugene. And I am advised not to goto that Subaru mechanic for much, if any subaru work. What kind of work have you had done and how much did he charge ya. I bought a Subaru Wagon from a guy that had automatic tranny problems...he said that Gary fixed it once...but the problems came back. When I bought the car...i ended up putting a 4spd Dual Range in there...that requires a 3.9 Differential gearing...and to my suprise, the diff that the auto tranny was hooked up to was a 3.9...the diff that the Auto tranny was supposed to be hooked up to was a 3.7.... So that means in 4wd when the 3.9 Diff was hooked up to the Auto tranny, that was supposed to have a 3.7, the 3.9 Diff would try to spin the output shaft faster than the engine is...that lead to the repeated tranny breakage. Why was there a 3.9 Diff hooked up to a 3.7 Auto Tranny? I could only speculate why a "Subaru Specialist" would let the slide by. As for help in Eugene? I have a spare alternator...it's a green band..I think that's 30 amps. I'll PM you with my info. [HTi]Johnson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critical_max Posted March 4, 2005 Author Share Posted March 4, 2005 Yeah, I'm going to price the GM units this weekend and test the current unit with a fresh battery, everything hooked up. At Gary's, I had a low-miles JDM EA82T engine swapped in to replace the blown-head-gasket-badly-overheated hunk of junk that the car came with. Price was on par with other JDM swaps I've heard of. Engine runs great, until this alternator thing (the alternator was not replaced, etc... I've never replaced the battery either). I had him put in a new radiator and clutch at the same time, since there was minor damage to the radiator from a front end collision, and that damaged radiator was only a single core, not even OEM spec. Cooling is important to me with this car. Both systems gave no trouble after that... When I first got the car, I also had Gary's pull front suspension from one of their parts RX's to replace the front right assembly on my car, as it was bent past the point of realignment - I assume from that same collision. So this is definitely a "build trust by means of replacing everything" vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critical_max Posted March 4, 2005 Author Share Posted March 4, 2005 OK, the consensus so far has been that I should replace with the GM alternator due to the higher output and lower cost. The parts website says it comes as standard equipment in these cars, in case anyone needs to pull one from a junkyard. I assume this would be for the V8 versions of these vehicles only, not the V6 which was an option in many of them. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=QLT&mfrpartnumber=P7157&sourcepage=SEARCHRESULTS BUICK 1977 CENTURY 1978 LESABRE 1977 ELECTRA CADILLAC 1980 COMMERCIAL CHASSIS 1980 - 1985 ELDORADO 1982 - 1984 COMMERCIAL CHASSIS [What's a commercial chassis? Funeral coach, ambulance and limo, I'm guessing?] 1979 - 1985 FLEETWOOD 1980 - 1984 DEVILLE 1980 - 1985 SEVILLE CHEVROLET 1984 - 1985 P30 VAN GMC 1984 - 1985 P35/P3500 VAN OLDSMOBILE 1979 CUTLASS 1979 CUTLASS CRUISER 1979 CUTLASS CALAIS 1979 CUTLASS SUPREME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
critical_max Posted March 5, 2005 Author Share Posted March 5, 2005 OK, we have a new twist to the story. I put a good battery in the car, still no spark at all when I turn the key in the ignition. No headlights either. So it seems that the battery cables should be cleaned (duh). Even more ominous: ignition coil measures infinite resistance from negative terminal to primary lead, and 40 ohms from neg-pos terminals. This could explain why the car was running a little rough... I think I need to replace that coil. UPDATE: I figured out that I was measuring from the nut, not the terminal itself - the coil reads at the proper ohms. The old alternator had bad corrosion on the plug that runs from the "E" terminal. Also, a shot-to-heck ball bearing fell out of the alternator when I pulled it off the mounting bracket! After seeing the BB fall out, I got a new one from Brook's ($55), but it doesn't quite fit on the brackets... needs to be shaved down a couple of millimeters. Back to the store for a file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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