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Stripping down EA-82


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Does anyone have any good advice or links on stripping down an EA-82?

I want to remove everything that is not necessary for the engine to run properly. It will not be used in a car or on the highway. I plan to use a weber 32/36 or 38/38 carb. I'm not opposed to changing intake manifold if necessary.

 

Thanks guys!

Jeff

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if you are going with a weber, it will be easier to strip the emissions by removing the intake.

 

all the metal vacuum lines are of one manifild, the whole deal is held on by a few 10mm bolts with phillips heads in them. you can remove all the metal lines and plug off any fittings on the manifold itself

 

make sure you leave connected the skinny hose from the canister on the passenger firewall, leave it connectoed to the motor as this controls the heater vent select, cruise, and pushbutton 4wd, and of course, the vacuum advance on the disty, just connect it directly to the manifold or the carburetor

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What do you intend to use the engine for?I stripped mine for aircraft use but weight was the big issue with me.If its going in a boat or buggy then you will have less work.I cut out all the emissions stuff and ground out the passages that were no longer used .Drill tap and plug all your vacuums except for one to yor distributor.If its going in the air you will need a I/2 inch additional vac line at the carb base with a valve on it to lean the mixture at alltitude.I cut the extra flange off the main pulley made a new light weight bracket to carry a 35 A Suzuki alternator,Gor rid of the flywheel and mounted a Chevy flexplate and Chevy Denso racing starter sitting on the engine rather than the soob starter which has to mount from behind the engine.I made an adapter plate and mounted a carter holly carb off a bronco (No emissions junk,just throttle and manual choke)You are better to stick with the intake manifold than making a new one as the water is carried thro it and making 2 new separate systems for fuel and coolant can be a pain.

Hope this helps

Happy Easter

Jude

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the skinny hosw will connect to a tee on the passenger side intake, the tee wil lbe the samme one to the vac modulator for an automatic. it runs to the vac canister on the firewall. the hose changes diameter half way up and has a plastic fitting between the diameters

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Thanks Jude, helpful information!

 

I'm not using engine for aircraft, but I am using it for hovercraft, so weight is also a big issue for me. I left the flywheel on, but it is from auto tranny, not too heavy. I gutted the pressure plate, machined it down to min thickness and made an adapter for a flex coupling to the shaft.

I made a bracket and kept the soob starter, even though it mounts from the rear.

 

I want to strip all the emissions and extras off the engine for a cleaner look also.

It may be easier than i think, it's just new stuff to me.

 

Jeff

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First thing to go on every car I've gone custom on; not just Subarus ;)

 

Air Condition System. Lots of junk out from under the hood that I really dont need.

 

Power Steering. Only owned one vehicle I was glad I had PS. Thats becuase 457 cubic inches of American iron rested on the front wheels.

 

All silly plastic guards, shields, unecessary brackets.

 

Rage it !_!

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What is the best method of dealing with positive crankcase ventilation when stripping these motors of excess stuff?

 

I just ran one big hose direct from (new) PCV valve to drivers side valve cover and installed small filtered breather on passenger side valve cover.

 

It seemed logical, but I know I don't know much, and am concerned about long term detrimental consequences with this "invention".

 

Thanks,

 

Pyro

 

Never mind. Stupid me, I didn't search before I asked. Sorry. Search yielded good results. Looks like what I'm doing, though perhaps not "best", will work.

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