are the CV joints bad to do? Mine seems to be clicking. I've never done CVs before, I'm guessing it will suck in an AWD subaru.

are the CV joints bad to do? Mine seems to be clicking. I've never done CVs before, I'm guessing it will suck in an AWD subaru.

No harder than any front wheel drive vehcile, the AWD is in the center diff not the front.

No harder than any front wheel drive vehcile, the AWD is in the center diff not the front.

 

I change the axel assembley, not just the CV. Get a re-man unit from NAPA.

Hardest thing is separating the ball joint, I use a "pickle fork" and a BIG hammer.

 

swi66

I removed the strut bolts from the spindle and got it out that way. Just use a chisel to put a line across the spindle where the edge of the strut clamp grips it and the camber will end up fine if you match the mark later. I don't like separating ball joints, for some reason they don't like ot retighten for me.

Take the balljoint bolt out not the castle nut off the bottom of the control arm. Easier and doesnt do anything to the alignment.

 

Yes, the legacy axles are pretty straight forward/easy.

never done a legacy, but on an XT6 (much different of course) there's no need to touch the ball joint. remove strut mounting bolts and you're golden.

there are those that completely disassemble the front suspension when all that's needed is to remove 2 lower strut mount bolts and loosen the top 3 bolts of the strut and that gives enough room to pull the axle. the hub articulates enough to pull/install an axle.

 

have a 3/4" socket for the axle nut and it will be easy. try using a 1/2" breaker bar or socket and it'll be a pain in the rump roast (i've broken 3 trying to use 1/2" bars and sockets).

 

if it just started clicking and only clicks around turns it's not anywhere near failure or of any concern except the annoying sound and grease flinging around. if the boot is cracked, sometimes packing a little grease in there by hand will quiet it up if it's really loud. of course that's temporary and it will eventually return....in an hour or month.....i just let them click for a year or two until i need to do some brake work or something else. if they start clicking while i'm driving straight i replace them.

Take the balljoint bolt out not the castle nut off the bottom of the control arm. Easier and doesnt do anything to the alignment.

 

Yes, the legacy axles are pretty straight forward/easy.

 

That may sound simple, but I recently had to change a bad ball joint. Living in a state where they salt the roads liberally leaves a very rusty undercarriage. I had to heat the assembley cherry red with my torch so as not to break off that balljoint bolt.

 

swi66

That may sound simple, but I recently had to change a bad ball joint. Living in a state where they salt the roads liberally leaves a very rusty undercarriage. I had to heat the assembley cherry red with my torch so as not to break off that balljoint bolt.

 

swi66

 

Same here. Rust plays havoc with the baljoint pinch bolt cause it's got three places for the salted water to seep in : at both ends and in the middle. I broke two of them (one on a Loyale and the other on my Legacy) and had to drill them through and replace with longer bolt and nut. Some people are slow learner...