Im about to pull my ea82t out of my RX. Shoudl the tranny stay with it, or what? I woudl like to make it as easiest as possible Can i just disconnect the driveshaft? (I havnt taken a close look underthere yet)

Easiest would be to leave the tranny in the car. Just remove the radiator & A/C condensor. Unbolt the engine from the tranny, then unbolt the engine mounts. You'll need to put a jack under the tranny and preload it. Dont lift the tranny until you start lifting the engine out.

 

Getting it all back in could be alittle trickier. I havent done a EA82T pull, but ive pulled a couple EA81's and a EJ22T and always left the tranny in the car.

 

-Brian

Hmm, alright.

 

I guess im almost ready then. All i have to do now is just unbolt the tranny, motor mounts, and disconnect the power steering stuff, everything else is done.

 

Now about the powersteering...when i disc the lines, all the fluid will of course pour out. When i reconnect them..is there some sort of beeding technique i must do before i drive the car? Or do i just fill it back up with ps fluid, and im good to go.

 

(my previous cars did not have ps)

 

Thanks!

i think you can leave the cap off the p/s and turn the steering wheel back and forth and the lines will eventually purge. but i've never done it before myself.

 

if it were an XT6 4EAT auto transmission, and it's your first time then i'd pull the trans as well. anything else i'd probably leave the trans in the car. i know a couple people that have broken their trans oil pump shaft because the torque converter is tricky to seat on the 4EAT. it seems like it's in place but really it has just a *little* more to go. people don't realize it has just a little more to go, or they think it will *pull* in place when they tighten the bolts. but it's really not seated properly and you'll crack something inside the trans.

Unbolt the power steering pump from the engine, and leave it, and the lines, in the car. That way you dont need to worry about bleeding anything later.

 

-Brian

Unbolt the power steering pump from the engine, and leave it, and the lines, in the car. That way you dont need to worry about bleeding anything later.

 

-Brian

 

Great, thanks ill do just that.

 

By the way, this is a EA82T in my RX.

you can leave the AC condensor in the car....just take the COMPRESSOR off.

 

Its simple. 8 bolts and the engine is essintially ready to come out. Its just the small things like the radiator, Alt/AC/PS/wiring that needs to come off/unplugged before the engine can come out.

 

Its easy. i can have one out in 45 mins by myself.

So are you saying 4 bolts for the engine mounts...4 bolts for the tranny?

 

Yeah, im just waiting to pick up the engine lift from my buddy. Conderser is staying...as is the compressor, and ps pump.

 

Now about pulling the tranny off, when i take the engine out of my other car i leave the tranny attached...with this subaru, ill just unbolt the tranny, then seperate it. And the engine shoudl pull out from in it (well the clutch being in it and whatever.? Like the drive-(enter proper term here) that goes into the clutch will just slide out right?

 

Other than that im pretty much set! I cant wait to get this thing in nice order.

So are you saying 4 bolts for the engine mounts...4 bolts for the tranny?

 

Yeah, im just waiting to pick up the engine lift from my buddy. Conderser is staying...as is the compressor, and ps pump.

 

Now about pulling the tranny off, when i take the engine out of my other car i leave the tranny attached...with this subaru, ill just unbolt the tranny, then seperate it. And the engine shoudl pull out from in it (well the clutch being in it and whatever.? Like the drive-(enter proper term here) that goes into the clutch will just slide out right?

 

Other than that im pretty much set! I cant wait to get this thing in nice order.

 

Yes, the clutch disc is splined as well as the trans. input shaft. It will slide right off. Just to recap: There are 2 bolts with nuts that go through the engine and trans. on the top. There are 2 studs with nuts on the bottom. There are 2 nuts to remove from the engine cross member (cradle) When you are down there, it's a good time to unbolt the exhaust. You must also remove the engine pitch rod (top center).

 

I always yank the radiator and fan, deservice the A/C and disconnect the large low side line at the firewall (the top fitting of the evaporator) and the high side line that connects right above the ignition coil. Bag the open connections quickly to avoid trash/bugs/moisture from getting in the A/C system. I then disconnect the power steering lines at the pump (no problem later, just fill and run....add as needed after initial run) Disconnect the line clamps from the engine and move the hoses clear. Don't forget throttle cable, fuel/vacuum lines and wiring. If you have a hill holder, the cable from it to the clutch fork will need to be removed also. If it's your first time, bag and tag everything.

 

I like getting things out of my way. It makes an engine change more enjoyable.

 

When everything is disconnected and you are ready to yank the engine, you must lift it a little to clear the studs from the cradle mount in order to move the engine forward to clear the clutch assy' from the trans. input shaft. As mentioned earlier, support the trans. with a jack.

Thank you, that really cleared the tranny part of it up for me. Everything else looks good!