Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board
BoostedBalls

1987 RX Turbo at the drags last night

Recommended Posts

First I wanted to ask you guys if you think Ill need to use a relay between the pressure switch and the injector, or will the draw be low enough that the switch can handle it??

 

manny->

5004XT_-_5th_injector.JPG

I didnt have my camera with me down there, and am back at school now, so this is the best i can do. Put a brass Tee in right after the fuel filter and ran a high pressure line with a banjo fitting at the end to the injector's top. Ground a flat spot in the saab intake pipe, and stuck the injector there for now. Im going to fab up a new pipe with better positioning in the near future.

 

My manual boost controller and the pressure switch are over on the left side, but its pretty straight forward to install that. just put a Y in one of the pressuresed lines and stick the switch on, cap the other end of the switch. To set it, we power braked it to get boost up and used an Ohm meter to see when the switch tripped.

 

 

Banjo fitting (i didnt know what they were called so heres a pic of one...) you'll need it if you use the same Saab one i did.

10mm%20Banjo%20Straight2.gif

pic from http://www.paragonperformance.com/Images/10mm%20Banjo%20Straight2.gif if putting the link makes using that pic legal then there it is

 

 

-Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Matt you rock!

 

I'm getting my EGT installed next week and when I do, I'm going to throw this all together, and post pics of my own!

 

I'm hoping for 13-14 reliable psi out of the VF11 with this mod....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are using the stock fuel cut-off pressure switch to drive the injector, no problem, if you are using a micro switch, you will need a relay. The injector doesn't pull much current but it's better to be safe. I put an LED on the dash that is wired to the injector so you can see when power is actually at the injector. My LED was kinda small to see going 90mph when you don't want to look down. I'll be installing a bigger one soon.

 

220 degreeze Jeeze! That's hot. That would explain why my intercooler heats the water up so fast. I was running 19psi last year on my GL-10 and 16psi this year on my RX. Now that I know the engine will hold up, I'll turn it up to 19psi again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might consider moving your intercooler over to the driver side of the engine compartment. It will have a ton of heat soak in its present location. Also, moving the intercooler to the other side might allow you to use less sharp bends in the piping. Check out some cheap conduit that has nice gradual bends and maybe use some rubber hose to tie it all together. The air moving through the tubes is really dense and moving very fast.

If your hood scoop is really small, you can install a radiator cooling fan from a street bike to pull air down through it. And- I used a water spray on my thunderbird setup last year and it worked awesome, it was cheap also.

You can take some 5/16 fuel line and cut 1/8" piece with a razor blade to use as your gasket at the base of the injector. Seals perfectly and once again- cheap.

Keep up the good work!

 

5004XT_-_5th_injector.JPG

I didnt have my camera with me down there, and am back at school now, so this is the best i can do. Put a brass Tee in right after the fuel filter and ran a high pressure line with a banjo fitting at the end to the injector's top. Ground a flat spot in the saab intake pipe, and stuck the injector there for now. Im going to fab up a new pipe with better positioning in the near future.

 

My manual boost controller and the pressure switch are over on the left side, but its pretty straight forward to install that. just put a Y in one of the pressuresed lines and stick the switch on, cap the other end of the switch. To set it, we power braked it to get boost up and used an Ohm meter to see when the switch tripped.

 

 

Banjo fitting (i didnt know what they were called so heres a pic of one...) you'll need it if you use the same Saab one i did.

10mm%20Banjo%20Straight2.gif

pic from http://www.paragonperformance.com/Images/10mm%20Banjo%20Straight2.gif if putting the link makes using that pic legal then there it is

 

 

-Matt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a couple layers of heat shielding between the turbo and IC, so that keeps a bit of the heat off it. I only use it at the drags as something to mess with, no title or anything, so its not streetable. But anyways I know what you mean about moving it around. Im going to be swinging by the muffler shop, next time Im home, to get some scrap to re-pipe the intercooler. We just used HomeDepot plumbing pipe for the turbo-IC pipe, as you can see its pretty haggard. hell, the whole car is haggard, but its fun and cheap.

 

I'll go ahead and put a relay in to run the injector.

 

(nice video by the way, Im def gonna get some footage when I go)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I got a Hobbs-style pressure switch off of ebay. You can set it to a specific pressure (between 4-15psi on the one i got) to activate the electric circuit and then kick the injector on.

 

86_1_b.JPG

I think you can get the gist of how it works by looking at the pic... Once the stuff gets delivered Ill try to get this rigged up and put details.

 

*edit* it was only $15 with shipping

 

I forgot all about this device and totally fell off the scene. Time to get back into the swing of things. *Looking on Ebay after this post*

 

*Edit* Just found a bunch of pressure switched on Ebay but none like the one pictured above. Any suggestions?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

it doesn't have to be like the one pictured. Just make sure it's adjustable and make sure you loosen the adjustment screw way out before starting. They are usually preset around 65psi, that's a little high for our purposes!

 

The ones I see on ebay are fine, you must use a relay with them though. The relay won't create any delay that you will notice. It's a good idea to mount an LED that is connected to the injector itself so you at least know when voltage is at the injector.

 

These are used extensively in on the robots I work on at my job, the wires tend to come loose because the wire clamps suck. Use plenty of tiewraps so they don't come loose and toast your engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×