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Heres a Puzzle for you EA82T Engine Buffs!! Good Luck!!!


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What you are about to read is a mystery.....

 

If you choose to read the following and help solve the mystery, it will propel this young man, into the SCCA rally field...

 

and onto certian glory...

 

These are FACTS about my mystery. These FACTS have been proven unless stated otherwise....

 

EA82T engine missing on Cylinder 1.

 

Switched the injectors from 1 and 3, still missing on 1.

 

Switched the spark plugs from 1 and 3, plugs sooty all around,

still missing on 1.

 

Noid light on injector lines, firing. No problem.

 

When you pull the injector wire, there is a slight notice in running (as in it runs worse, but only slightly worse), not as bad as when you pull the plug on any other cylinder.....

 

and when you pull the spark plug wire off the #1 cylinder, there is no noticable change.

 

Spark is reaching the spark plug....

 

timing was checked and is WAY off.... when distributor is retarded full, the engine runs best, when anywhere close to normal, engine runs poor...

 

when injector fuel lines were removed to switch injectors, there was pressure. fuel was also in both lines, giving me the impression that fuel was passing through the injector, and when the injectors were switched, the miss stayed at cylinder #1

 

I'm thinking flat cam, or something to do with the rockers?? i read in both chilton, and haynes about that, and i ordered the "Subaru repair guide for the complete idiot" book, i heard on here its a good book to have, so i thought i'd take it upon myself to order, should be here any day. but i am at a loss....

 

I can't really think of what it could be.... besides timing, and could it be that its all it needs??? broken tooth on the timing belt? but then why is the missing #1, still missing, and only that wierd way??

 

The engine is telling me symptoms for something i cant read.....

 

any ideas?!?!?!?!?!?!

 

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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What about the basics?

 

Switch the spark leads around (on dissy and plugs!).

 

Check rotor to cap connection on 1.

 

Then check the valves by feeling for them while turning the engine slowly. From there i think it gets complicated.

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my first guess would be maybe the belt on that side is a tooth or 2 off

thus killing your cam timing and as a result your compression and drivabilty ect

 

my second guess is someone put the distributor in 180 degrees out

exactly opposite from where it should be lined up

the motor will still run but run like crap

won't it hondasucks... hehe

 

now as far as a miss on a certain cylinder a valve could be hung open

or you could have bad rings on the cylinder and low compression

or a blow headgasket

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compression is up on all four cylinders....

 

Distributor to Rotor to cap, everything chcks out in that department... remember, i'm getting healthy spark.

 

TomRhere.... good idea about pulling the cam cover off... i'll look into that...

 

555ron.... i'll check the valves by feeling them... any tips on how to do this???

 

OddComp..."my first guess would be maybe the belt on that side is a tooth or 2 off thus killing your cam timing and as a result your compression and drivabilty ect"

 

"my second guess is someone put the distributor in 180 degrees out

exactly opposite from where it should be lined up "

 

these are all great ideas.... i'll go through them, and let you know...

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1) you don't tell us what MPFI system you are running

I see mention of an 87 so it might be the hot wire not vane or flapper door

 

2) Sooty plugs =.> from a rich mix or poor spark or wrong range plugs. They are NGK BPR6ES-11 no doubt?

 

3) I would like to read what the comp psi/sq in is in number 1 ...not "it's up" ... bit nebulous to my feeble gray matter

 

4) I will assume you had the green test mode connectors together when you looked at

the timing at idle. Has the distributor been out of the engine?

 

5) You have obviously swapped plug wire three with plug wire for one

( they both reach the dist and can be changed)

 

6) Have you ever heard of "Colortune" a clear headed spark plug to let you watch the combustion

http://www.international-auto.com/index.cfm/fa/p/pid/3448/sc/8189

 

7) a vacuum leak in the intake runner to number one may lean it's mix to a non fire situation

 

BTW Your hopes that the Keep your Subaru Alive book will help is not based on fact - in fact

it has very little on the turbo system.

Children's and Underwear manuals are also not much help as you noted.

Shop the Bay of E for a FSM if you want to get the true skinny

 

Feel free to answer any of the above questions

or

to ignore this convoluted inquisition

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Don't rule out a bad spark just because you can see a spark at the plug with it removed.

Conditions are very different in your engine, spark may not occur when under these conditions.

The fact that turning off #1 plug makes no difference while the injector does seems to point to a spark prob.

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check for arcing the easiest way is to drive to a parking lot or back street with no lights then open your hood and watch the wires to see if it is going around the boot my friends gl was arcing around the boot to the block

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well!!!

 

I took the valve cover off and BOOM! out comes 2 ...count them... 2 PIECES of a hydralic lash adjuster and a rocker.....on the intake side. so!!!

 

 

Can a new hydraulic lash adjuster and rocker arm be installed without removing the cam? Is there enough room to install the lash adjuster in its hole, collapse it as far as it will go, then slide the rocker arm in place?

 

 

i was thinking about loosening the cam...then sliding it under and popping it in... good? bad?

:)

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  • 4 months later...
i was thinking about loosening the cam...then sliding it under and popping it in... good? bad? :)

 

break loose the cam part of the head from the head part of the head, and use a thick grease to hold the lash adjustors in place... then rock the head back over... and all is well.. worked great!

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  • 2 months later...

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